Haffner

Sorry I hadn’t read this before, as I could have saved you some time and money.  Planer blades wouldn’t work in a chisel adapter or even in the WE because of their angle.  You can, however, use the diamond stones to finish the edges.

Planer blades tend to see damage that is quite deep along their edges and which usually requires some sort of p…[Read more]

I’ve made a number of knives from kits over the past 45 years.  Recently, I’ve done a few that have turned out quite good.

If you want an inexpensive ($23) EDC folder, I’ve done the “Sarge” kit, which is available from a number of sources.  My source was Woodcraft.

My kitchen knives, which I also bought from Woodcraft, are completed blades of e…[Read more]

If the shears will be used for slide cutting, whether fabric or hair, you may want a polished edge.

The chart has been updated to revision 12.  Try a hard reload (Shift+F5) if you see an older edition.

@Jason – MarcH is exactly right. That video (I’m surprised you found it) was made for our brand ambassadors last summer to help them get results quickly. It’s sort of a short cut to get around the work that is often required to make the bevel just right at the angle your marker indicates; by increasing the angle by 1 degree per side from what the…[Read more]

Back to the scalpel in the photo I posted above.  Please note that what the manufacturer has done is to form the bevels with (what appears to be) 600 grit, then polished one side.  They are skipping all the intermediate grits between 600 and 3000 (?), so the 600-grit scratches and the 600-grit apex are retained.  Only the high ridges of the 60…[Read more]

Clay reported at one time that he had some success with 200 as the “tooth”-producing grit.  Probably used as an elk-gutting and skinning application.  I don’t recall the details, but I would think that 50 grit is too coarse and would accelerate the loss of steel.  I have a set of non-serrated Wuesthof steak knives and they are quite thin and ha…[Read more]

Any news on this front?

I made a batch of skinning knives which have a more or less constant radius belly (see photo below) and found that the best way to mount the knife is to center the belly directly over the center of the vise, ignoring any of the normal landmarks or key positions.  This works so well that I’ve adopted it for any knife that has a somewhat constant…[Read more]

Agreed, Marc, this is very interesting reading.  I’ve never gotten into the whetstone process.  All my sharpeners are diamond, ceramic or oilstones.

How do you deal with changes in stone thickness changes after lapping?  Do you check angles with each grit change, or do you use the Variable Stone Thickness Adapter (which doesn’t work on the Gen 3…[Read more]

A long time ago, to help me understand what made for a really sharp knife, I studied shaving razor blades and scalpels.  I talked my dentist into given me a few of his old scalpels, which turned out to be junk, so I Googled it and found you can buy scalpels right off of Amazon, so I bought a bunch.

I had really been curious as to how scalpels…[Read more]

TL;DR  Which I think stands for “Too long, didn’t read.” which I’m sorry for, but I’m way behind on my forum reading, so I’ll jump in here, not knowing if what I have to add has been discussed or not.

Serious chipping is a problem that nagged me for the first two years of WE sharpening and it changed my approach entirely.  It popped up again t…[Read more]

Interesting point @OOORobert, I’d be interested in your findings.

I agree with @airscapes, only the apex will do the cutting and finishing the shoulders at different grits is a gimmic at best. Microbevels are a different story all together. They provide a toothier edge while protecting the said edge if you are not using a super steel but prefer an acute sharpening angle. Case in point, one of my knives is VG10…[Read more]

Steven,

I have both models – and I prefer the 130 for small pocket knives.

With the stock Gen3 you won’t utilize the top 3/4″-1″ of your diamond stones on small blades.

In my case, I printed a riser block and raised the vise 1.25″.  The LAA works fine, I just don’t like messing with the allen tool to tighten the screws.  FYI, I also have 12″ r…[Read more]

If you’ll send me your e-mail address via private message, I’ll forward to you all the information you need.   I assume you want the parts as shown in your third photo, correct?

From your name, I’m guessing that you are in Europe, maybe Netherlands?

I’ll concur, taking exception where a user whose skills are well developed wants to break in a new set of stones.  I use a piece of plate glass, begged from a local glass shop.  It’s about 6 inches long, 2 inches wide and 1/4″ thick.  I think it speeds up the break in process about ten-fold.  This is what I use, but I don’t necessarily rec…[Read more]

From my experience, (which is to say not much) one of the problems I’ve seen with scissors is the material being cut tending to slide away from the point of shear.  This suggests that a “toothier” edge might be better.  I’d stick with the 1000 grit.

I also use the  DXL360S  , besides the precision it is re-chargeable via USB.  I don’t have to worry about changing batteries.

Ed K.