NotSharpEnuff

Pat,

MarcH is correct in that the angle adjuster mod gives you a lot more range in the fine adjust.

tcmeyer is correct that the original implementation of the mod gave ~5 degrees of adjustment.

However, in my current angle adjust mod for the Gen 3 Pro, I get almost 4 degrees of adjustment.  The reason for the difference is the threaded rod…[Read more]

Continued #2.

The last picture is of MarcH’s pre 2017 Gen 3 Pro.  You can plainly see the black screws on the faceplate which my model does not include.

He has installed a set of stainless knobs, but notice that the lock down knob is on the inside where the stanchion is vertical not slanted.  That provides the knob more area to tighten a…[Read more]

Continued….

Then thread the outside knob onto the rod until it is flush.  The rod should not protrude outside the knob edge.

Almost done, snug the knob and the jam nut together.  Hold the knob and turn the nut into the knob with a wrench.  It doesn’t take much force for the jam nut to lock the knob in place.

Now thread your guide rod in…[Read more]

Thank you Lay for the kind endorsement.

I can always make another set of stainless for my rig, but the plastic knobs work as well.  If I make the plastic set for others, I need to test and use them as well.

This post is to answer some questions I’ve had once forum members get their “kit” – I like that term.  I work with many folks from far off l…[Read more]

Expedia,

One note of caution for current owners of this tester . . . I’ve fallen away from using the fulcrum too much as one can to easily fudge their results.  The fulcrum method one can easily impart an ever so slight slicing into the testing thread motion.  I see users on other forum sites show these incredibly low pics of numbers like 80 and…[Read more]

This is my “paper” test for sharp edges.  I would ask that others with the BESS tester replicate the test to see if your numbers match mine.

So, just got home from work and pulled out my PM2 to do the paper slice.  I don’t start the slice at the edge, I create bump by folding it over my finger and then slicing.

I’ve been using the knife for m…[Read more]

Jon J,

First time I’ve heard of this alloy and have not had a chance to sharpen it.  I went to http://zknives.com/knives/steels/sm-100.shtml to look it up.  Zknives is a fairly good reference for different blade steels – but buyer beware – it’s one persons opinion.

Ed K.

SM-100(Summit Materials) – Variation of the Crucieble NiTiNol 60[Read more]

I’m spending way too much time on the computer today.

Back on page 12 of the MODS thread, I stated that my angle adjuster kit does not include the mini L brackets shown in the picture below.

Those L brackets are for sale for $30.00 if anyone wants a set.  As always, PM me if you are interested.

Ed K.

Airscapes,

I don’t think your rods got any shorter. The stone rod still bottoms out at the same point relative to the threaded adjustment rod.

You gained 1/2″ of stone travel on the lower end.  If you predominantly sharpen kitchen knives, then having the stones lower might not be helpful.  With pocket knives it really helps me.

If you find t…[Read more]

Lay,

Here are the prices for my last order of stainless steel parts.  I really don’t want to make the stainless set any more – just takes a lot more time and the the plastic knobs work just as well.

Total order price for one set of knobs (4), steel rod (1), ball joints (2), and nuts (100), was $47.35, tax was $3.84, and shipping was $9.53 =…[Read more]

While I have time, I want to post some pictures of my pluggable scope.  Since I hold the scope tight to the edge and rotate looking at the sides as well as straight down, I’ve worn a groove in the clear plastic shield.  Base on a post from tcmeyer, I now wrap the shield with UHMW TAPE 19-20A-.5-18 Tape.

Once the new layer of UMHW tape is in pl…[Read more]

Tommie,

There are many variables in setting a bevel angle. Your question goes to the science of sharpening.  Steel quality, blade geometry, and knife usage all need to be considered.  Because the kitchen knife in the picture above sees lots of usage and is used for slicing bread as well as chopping raw carrots, I have settled on 17DPS.  I’ve ad…[Read more]

These are the pictures of the kitchen work horse.

Ed K.

Tommie,

I’ve added some pictures to show what I look for in the reflected light when shooting straight down onto the edge.  I used my pluggable scope at the highest magnification.

The first set is my Spyderco PM2 I sharpened two weeks ago.  I drew a red line where I tested the edge and then shot three pictures of the bevel – Right, straight d…[Read more]

I’ve had some questions concerning what is included in the micro angle adjustment kit.  I also wanted to post a detailed picture of how the kit is assembled.

The mini L brackets in the top of this first picture are not included!  They are there just to add size perspective.

Those who have the Gen 3 Pro model will not need the spring loaded L l…[Read more]

Marc,

Great explanation and pictures of the burr and the burr removal.

Might be too late, but could you shoot a picture straight down on the edge to show how much reflected light a truly keen edge should have?

Ed K.

I ordered some of the dry lubricant mentioned by MarcH in a different thread.

Just got the bottle of dry bike lubricant made by Finish Line.  I’ll give it a try on a set of ball joints I just finished cutting/sanding.

Ed K.

What do you push down into the threaded part? Grease? I’m going to have to check my joints, as I never noticed a hole there before. I’m not sure how you do it, but a hole would let me pack grease down on the threaded hole. Then screwing a rod down into it should force grease down into the joint. I’m guessing that the joint would last longer witho…[Read more]

Tom,

The “Heim” joints I get from Mcmaster-Carr are cheaper but the shipping cost probably makes them comparable to Fleet Farm.

What I’ve found is that the joints have a small hole in the bottom of the threaded part that is open down to the swivel ball.  So, I take the time to wrap the outside of the ball joint with paper towel and tape it t…[Read more]

Tom,

The set pictured above is the implementation of your mod with all stainless parts.  My adaptation is to use the plastic 1″ knobs with jam nuts.

The cost of all stainless parts and the labor cost to cut the barrel off of two knobs and tap the other two was prohibitive for me to make for other members.  I did make a four sets for Marc’s r…[Read more]