NotSharpEnuff

John,

Thanks for the detailed write-up.  I would like to add comments as to why I chose the adjuster rod lengths and the L screw.

During Ed’s and my email exchange we chatted about longer adjusters.  He included them with my kit and I gotta say, I really like the extra room to dial back the stanchion jam knob, fine tune with the longer bolt, the…[Read more]

45srbest,

Personally, I would sharpen in two separate areas.  The drop at the tip versus the flat portion of the blade is pretty significant.  It’s not that the edge will be less sharp but the width of the bevel will be different.  If aesthetics of the bevel aren’t a concern, then sharpening with the single stroke will work fine.

P.S. I’m de…[Read more]

Dave,

The strop and stone covers are made by Airscapes as well as the guide rod stone stops.  I use them on my strops/Chosera stones as I work in the garage and they sit in the open on MarcH’s custom Rack-it.  I have the Rack-it hanging on the wall but it also has foldable legs to sit on my work bench.

I keep Airscapes’ products on hand in c…[Read more]

I use the DMT diafold files.  I have the course, fine, and super fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Machine-Technology-DMT-DMTFSKF-BRK/dp/B00004WFTZ

https://www.dmtsharp.com/about-dmt/dmt-product-lines/

Ed K.

45srbest, Jeff,

Here are the Pics I sent MarcH so he has a reference on how I’ve been clamping the S110V PM2.  I didn’t sharpen it, I just clamped it for the reference pics.

The blue lines are where I took the BESS measurements.  The knife has been in use for over 2 months since the last touch up.

Ed K.

MarcH – I will send a pic or two with the knife clamped as I sharpen it as well as an outline of the vise jaws.  I won’t sharpen it beforehand, it will arrive in the condition I’ve been using it.

I will also check the bevel angle and current sharpness scores before I mail it.  I’ll put this information on the blade as well.

Looking forward to y…[Read more]

MarcH,

I have tried both the Chosera and the Shapton stones and the edge still is ragged under the microscope.  It is to the point that I’m willing to mail it to you for a second opinion – on my dime – if you want to experiment.  I’m not ruling out my technique might be the problem.

Ed K.

Organic,

That is the sharpest (keenest) edge I have ever gotten on a knife.  I tested it 3 times in the same general location and got scores in the 60s.  It took 2.5 hours and there are still some faint scratches barely visible to the naked eye in the mirror polish.  I rarely get a perfect mirror edge so I’m good with how this one turned ou…[Read more]

Here are the pics after sharpening.

I’ve had a Para2 with S110V for a year or more.  Sharpened and touched it up about 10 times trying bevel angles 18-16.  It came with a 20 DPS edge.  Never have been happy with how the steel sharpened.  Best BESS scores were mostly between 120-150 and the edge seemed to chip out at 1000-1500 grit.

I bought a Kershaw 1776 with M390 and was imp…[Read more]

Readheads, Expidia,

I am impressed with your methodical note keeping.  I started the log when I got my first WE100 2016 but got lazy and started to use my phone to take pictures.  Since I only do 5 or 6 knives on a repetitive basis this works for me.

Ed K.

NorCalQ,

I ordered and received this table earlier this week based on your post.  Very solid and easy to setup/store as needed.

I needed a shorter table when I cement the threaded rods into the ball joint for the micro-adjust kit.  I have to be very careful not to contaminate the ball with the liquid metal epoxy.

All of my work benches are t…[Read more]

Marc,

Totally agree.  For those without a tap, I have suggested threading two jam nuts onto the rod all the way to the ball joint.  Lock them together and then start the rod into the stanchion.  When the resistance exceeds the ability to use fingers, take a wrench and slowly turn the rod until it clears the other side.

Run the rod back and fo…[Read more]

WFB100,

Expedia has the older Gen3 pro which has the stanchion angled on the outer side and flat on the inside.  For those models, other users have suggested putting the jam knob on the inside of the stanchion (flat side.)

The older models have a large black screw on the blue plate on each side of the vise.  I have a later model like you, and I…[Read more]

Michael,

MarcH is on point 🙂 with his answer.  There are many factors to consider when evaluating knife steel.  The link below is a great primer when it comes to blade steel.  I think this article has the best graphic representation of knife steel properties.

Just beware, the assertions in all articles like this are suspect until proven.  It’s…[Read more]

He tested Acacia boards as well as Bamboo – both end grain and long grain.

He says that the Acacia wood in the AU is comparable in hardness to Maple used  in the US.

Of the nine cutting boards tested, only 3 showed a negative impact on sharpness.  Bamboo end grain, low density polypropylene, and tempered glass.

For the Acacia/Maple boards, en…[Read more]

There is a very good article by Vadim Kraichuk, a professional sharpener in Australia.  KG, as he is known on several boards and forums, does a scientific study of cutting boards and their effect on edge sharpness.

http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf

Ed K.

Pat,

Glad you like the Gen 3 Pro.  One thing you mentioned above “I don’t see the need for a modification to increase the micro adj over what this comes with since I was able to change the angle 3 degrees without issue.” is not why I use the adjuster mod.

My benefit is not having to use the allen key to make the adjustments and then lock the…[Read more]