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MODS!!! Lets see em!!

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  • #53767
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 36
    • Replies: 1905

    That’s really interesting.  I’ve never had to try the high end of the angle range.  I’ll have to check mine out.  I would think the WE-manufactured parts would have a similar problem, but it stands to reason that they would have tested the full range of angles.

    #53771
    Pinkfloyd
    Participant
    • Topics: 22
    • Replies: 204

    Tom,

    WE OEM ball joint has a smaller diameter rod than the threads, it is on the inside of the adjustment knob. Which doesn’t hinder the circular range of motion while sharpening. I wasn’t looking for more degree adjustment, just my sharpening motion not being dimisished. Hope that makes sense

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    #53775
    BK
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 3

    Hi All! Just a quick shout out to Marc H. for his great work on racks. I received my custom-built unit this past week and could not be happier with the quality. Great customer service (lots of communication, pictures, etc.). Too bad I don’t need lots of racks, because it’s just so nice to deal with Marc!

    Highly recommended.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #53789
    John Harms
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 1

    Here’s another shout out for Ed’s (NotSharpEnuff) upgraded micro adjustment kit.

    I recently bought a WE130.  Used it for a while and noted the items that I personally wasn’t that satisfied with.  They fell in three primary areas – fine angle adjustment; ease of adjusting angles; angle accuracy.

    Most of my sharpening is on kitchen knives and pocket knives.  I also knew that I wanted to re-profile most of my knives with different angles as I’m not hard on the kitchen knives and I use them constantly.

    The first thing I did was flip the angle bar so I had infinite angle adjustability and no visual aids when setting the angle.  That also forced me to use the angle cube all the time – even when changing grits.

    Recently I bought Ed’s micro angle adjustment kit with the “L” arms and the RC dust covers – one for each arm and one for the center tension arm.  Wow, Ed supplies a great kit!  There are lots of pics already here, so I won’t post mine as they’d just look similar to everyone else’s.

    During Ed’s and my email exchange we chatted about longer adjusters.  He included them with my kit and I gotta say, I really like the extra room to dial back the stanchion jam knob, fine tune with the longer bolt, then tighten the jam knob.  Easy peasy and lots of room for my fingers.

    Though I haven’t done it yet, I could shorten the “L” arm bolts about an inch or so – as supplied, they are ~2.5″ long and don’t really need to be that long.  For those that push the arms to the rear, that might be an option.

    As a practice, I keep everything running towards the front of the WE.  More a safety precaution as I like my fingers and don’t really want any accidents.  Plus I keep and return everything to the pelican case that I bought with the WE.

    However, I’m working on getting some 1″ x 1.5″ or 1.5″ x 1.5″ closed cell foam blocks and running the “L” arm bolts through the foam, then into the stanchions – thus having the arms rest on the foam as they lean towards me.  They can’t rotate because there would only be a thin section below the bolt and the the table, and at 1.5″ tall, the blocks would be at the perfect height to rest the arms on when changing grits or inspecting the blade.

    I’ll probably make a couple different versions to try out to see what works best.  If it does, I won’t shorten the bolt and I’ll post pics here.  I’m thinking a block with a shallow “V” cut in it.

    If the screw hole is too close to the bottom, I may buy some 3/8″ balsa for the bolt hole and glue the foam on top as the rest.  Depending on the depth of the foam, I may also need to use a standoff from the stanchion to ensure access to the micro adjusters is retained.

    Again, pics of the rest once I make it.

    John

    Here’s what I’m thinking.  Looks like a Hobby Lobby run tomorrow – if they’re open that is!

    Image-3-21-20-at-7.15-PM

    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by John Harms. Reason: Added a drawing of what I'm thinking for a front arm rest
    • This reply was modified 1 week ago by John Harms.
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    #53800
    NotSharpEnuff
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 96

    John,

    Thanks for the detailed write-up.  I would like to add comments as to why I chose the adjuster rod lengths and the L screw.

    During Ed’s and my email exchange we chatted about longer adjusters.  He included them with my kit and I gotta say, I really like the extra room to dial back the stanchion jam knob, fine tune with the longer bolt, then tighten the jam knob.  Easy peasy and lots of room for my fingers.

    When I started a year or so ago, I would cut the 12″ rod into four 3″ lengths.  This size forced Gen3 owners to remove the blue plate and vise to install them.  Even at the most open angle the rod would not fit.  So, I tested 2.5″ rod lengths and they worked on all my kits.  I have the older, larger L bracket on my angle bar.  I got some feedback that the newer WE120/130 kits had moved to a smaller L bracket.  I use the term mini-L bracket which angles down toward the square angle bar.  With 2.5″ rods, the user could inadvertently adjust the ball joint down into the angle bar.  MarcH loaned me a set of mini-L brackets to test different rod lengths.  I found that a 2″ rod fixed the problem.  The drawback, in my opinion, was that the outer adjuster knob and the inner jam knob were closer together.  I was used to the 3″ rods on my kit.

    When John and I spoke, he asked why I needed to know what type L bracket he had.  I gave him the explanation above and I’m paraphrasing here but he said “I have big mitts, I’ll be careful and not screw the ball joint into the angle bar.”   So, sent him the 2.5″ rods which add a 1/2″ separation to the knobs.

    Though I haven’t done it yet, I could shorten the “L” arm bolts about an inch or so – as supplied, they are ~2.5″ long and don’t really need to be that long.  For those that push the arms to the rear, that might be an option.

    The choice of L arm screws came down to price.  The shorter black zinc L screws are roughly $2.00 more each.

    For the stainless kits, the shorter L arm screw is what I provide and it is the cheapest of the choices.

    Ed K.

     

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