000Robert

Here it is: LAA

Or just click on, “accessories”, above.

I don’t see what is so difficult about using warm water, dish soap, and a scrub brush. I also use round brushes to clean the guide rod holes out with. Piece of cake. It is a lot easier for me to clean them the prescribed way than to use my UC.

I heard that they called it a sheepsfoot blade because it is shaped like a sheep’s foot. It is good for cleaning horse hooves if I remember right.

I put a toothy 800 or 1000 grit edge on all of my blades unless I plan on collecting them. I decided to collect my Boker Plus 74 Kalashnikov Damascus Auto, so I put mirrored edges on it as best as I could with what was included in my Pro Pack III.

My Buck 301 Stockman has a sheepsfoot blade instead of a wharncliffe.

I don’t remember what the angle was on the 301, probably around 15dps. I don’t keep track of pocket knife angles – I just find the angle and sharpen them to what they are and don’t worry about it.

It’s quicker and easier for me to just sharpen the spey blades by hand.

I have a WE130 with the LAA and the only blade that I have a problem with on pocket knives is the spey blade. So I sharpen them by hand. Here is a photo where I have the sheepsfoot blade of my Buck 301 clamped up.

Yes, gently.

That’s pretty much what I was thinking.

My apologies Kyle, that’s pretty fast! I guess I’m just an old fogey. Setting the edge is quick work with that Gen 3!

I didn’t say that I “did” charge that much, I said that I “would” charge that much if I wanted to sharpen knives for money. But I don’t want to sharpen knives for money – that’s the point. 😉

I wouldn’t sharpen that fast anyways…[Read more]

I agree. Most of the time the 50/80 stones are not needed. But they would be nice to have when you do need them. They will keep me from prematurely wearing my 100 grit stones out.

I just hope you guys don’t get hurt. Try to be Bruce Lee sharpening knives is a tragedy in the making.

It depends on what you want. For most knives I use Break Free CLP. If you are using a knife for food then mineral oil would be safe. If you want an oil that is non-toxic, many people recommend ALG Defense Go-Juice. I don’t think it’s food safe. It is mainly for firearms but I would imagine that it would be good for knives as well. They also have…[Read more]

🤣 Ok.

I would not use Simple Green or Oil Eater. I just use warm water and dish soap with a scrub brush.

Four minutes a knife going from 100 to 1000 grit? Do you really expect us to believe that?

I don’t charge family and friends. And I don’t want to sharpen knives for money. But if I did I would charge $40 for the first time because I know I’ll have to reprofile the blade, then $10 to sharpen it after the first time for a basic toothy edge, if it has no damage. $50 or more for polished edges depending on the size of the blade.

You…[Read more]

I make sure that I get burrs on each grit also.

Your WE is all you need to find the edge angles on a blade. Clamp up the blade, run your sharpie down the edge, and use your 1500 or 1000 stone lightly until you take off all of the sharpie marks from the edges. You now know what they are profiled to. Shouldn’t take more than 5 – 10 minutes, tops.

I just use Oil Eater then rinse in water. Dry it off with a rag, then heat it with my heat gun to make sure all the water is gone. Then oil it. I’ve been thinking about using wax on knives that I don’t plan on using, but I’m not sure that I can trust it.