000Robert

I love my Tormek Small Knife Jig! It comes in very handy with dagger blades and other blades that are difficult to clamp up. I take my OTF apart when I sharpen it. I use a telephone workers knife that I use for my leather knife because it has a short, strong blade with a good rubbery handle that provides a good grip. The Tormek Jig comes in handy!

There will probably be someone coming along that would like a good deal.

Sounds like a good deal. And the stones aren’t even broken-in well yet! I love using my WE130!

Ok. I thought that he was talking about a new post. Thanks, Marc.

I can’t find Clay’s post and I didn’t get a notification. Where did you see it?

I agree with what Marc said. I have noticed that the biggest problem that I have had with my WE130 is sharpening tiny blades. On pocketknife blades like the wharncliffe blade on my Buck 301, I can clamp it closer to the spine at the nail-nick. On smaller blades like the tiny sheepsfoot, I use the Tormek SVM-00 small knife holder. I also use the…[Read more]

Welcome to the WE forum, Eric!

The Commercial Series is the most expensive if I remember right. And the extra stones that you said are 80/100, are really 50/80 stones. I hope that everything goes well for you guys!

Nice work!

It’s been a couple of months since I sharpened my leather knife. I polished it to 3000 grit. I’ve cut quite a bit of leather with it and it will still push cut printer receipts after a good stropping.

I have a couple of stones that are different from side to side. I didn’t worry about it much because I use my angle cube and check the angles every time that I change grits.

Welcome to the forum, James. Yep, the stones need to be broken-in. I used about 8 or so junk knives to break mine in. And I broke my 50/80 stones in on some chisels after I bought the Chisel Adapter. But the Wicked Edge system is the best that I could find since you can work both edges without flipping the blade around or unclamping it. It would…[Read more]

Cool! I’ll let you know when I’m ready. Thanks, Marc!

Looks great, Marc! I should’ve had mine made a tier or two taller.

I would recommend the 50/80 stones for reprofiling blades and chisels, but you have to be careful with them. I would also recommend the 1500/2200 and the 3000/glass platen stones and some lapping films. I also recommend some leather stropping handles with diamond sprays. But as Marc said, it really depends on your needs and wants.

I also…[Read more]

It also depends on if the blade apex needs to be reprofiled. I don’t start counting strokes until the apex is perfect and I get good burrs on both sides after reprofiling the edges. And nearly every knife that I have sharpened the first time needed to be reprofiled.

I used to deburr a blade after sharpening with my 3000 stones using a couple of edge leading strokes. I stopped doing that and just use my leather strops to deburr blades now.

Oh yeah, the vise key is for the WE100, 120, and 130 vises, adjusting the guide rods on the factory angle guides, and screws in the attachments. It has a 5/32″ and 1/8″ Allen head end. It’s just a handy key that fits in its slot in the WE130. I like it, plus it helps to prevent overtightening the screws. Most of the screws, especially for the…[Read more]

Yes, the AAG works pretty good but I’m not sure what it’s made of. I take photos of my knives locations on the AAG so I don’t have to try to write them down.

I bought my PP3 with rolling carry case and aluminum base last year, and if I remember right, I saved about $75 from not buying everything separately. But that was last year. Since then I…[Read more]

Good job!