tcmeyer

I didn’t mean to imply that microbevels are only good for toothiness, although for my practical purposes that is my opinion.  Perhaps there are some applications where a microbevel is better than nothing – as when the edge is so acute and fragile that a microbevel removes the finest edge before it will certainly be fractured.  Perhaps there a…[Read more]

I think that there’s two different reasons for adding a microbevel.  The first is to add a toothy quality to the edge, which greatly improves performance on certain slippery items to be cut.  This might be animal tissue, where the tissue is not firmly held in position, as with surgeons’ scalpels used to cut very slippery internal tissues or m…[Read more]

No, just because a blade is thick doesn’t mean that it’s necessarily leaning to the one side.  If the blade is leaning to either side, it simply means you haven’t done a very good job of clamping the blade.  Clay’s explanation simply says that even though the blade is vertical, the angles could be off if the thickness exceeds the 1/8″ design p…[Read more]

Clay’s comment refers to the fact that the centerline of the knife moves to right as the spine thickness increases.  Basically, what he is saying is that the left jaw is positioned 1/16″ left of center, where the blade is 1/8″ thick.  Assuming that the blade is 1/8″ thick and mounted dead vertical, the angles should be equal.

A one-degree error s…[Read more]

If I recall correctly, Josh, at Razor Edge Knives posted a comment here with photo(s) showing how he had added a Tormek Small Knife Adapter to an LAA.  He was able to reach angles in the 6-7 range.  The mod Cliff shows in the video is also a cool idea.

I have 14″ arms and I’m sure doubling up the LAA’s would put wider knives almost out of r…[Read more]

I’ve got one pair of blank handles, but they’re red / white.

It took me a few seconds to figure out your first photo.  For those maybe more confused than me, it’s a bottom view of the paper-stone base, showing the pocket you’ve machined in the edge to accept the clamp securing the lamp to the base.  The object to the right is the base of a plunge router, which was used to machine the pocket.

I think I’m ri…[Read more]

A while back, I bought one of the Carson USB ‘scopes, to replace the 5MP Celestron ‘scope I’ve been using for about seven years.  I especially liked the Celestron for the very tight adjustment wheel, which helps to keep the image in focus.  The impetus for the change has been the positive talk by a couple of our more savvy forum-mates here.  Th…[Read more]

I bought the aluminum two-piece collars from Amazon: Climax Metal 2C-025-A Aluminum Two-Piece Clamping Collar, 1/4″ Bore Size, 11/16″ OD, With 4-40 x 3/8 Set Screw and they work just fine.  I have rods that measure 0.257″.  They’re a little under-sized, but in this application,they don’t have to fit perfectly.
<h1 id=”title” cla…[Read more]

If it helps, I can get you the part numbers/links of the RAM stuff I used.

Brewbear:  My first WE (2011) came with a pin that would be inserted in a hole drilled in the back foot of the blue base.  The tip of the pin was notched to steady the tip end of a flexible blade.  Unfortunately, it was not adjustable.

A number of users have made attachments to clamp the blades on one end or the other.  others of us have gone to…[Read more]

I just watched a Youtube video on mil dots vs MOA and it prompted me to do a simple calculation, trying to put our obsession with precision in some perspective.

One tenth of one degree amounts to only 6.28 inches at 100 yds.

Yes, the 6.28 is actually two times π (3.14) and works here because there are 3600 tenths of degrees (360° X 10) in a c…[Read more]

I don’t think Tim has said that he has a digital angle finder, so setting up for 15 degrees using the horizontal degree bar could be wildly off if his blade is a wide one.  The degree markings are for reference only and calibrated for a nominal blade height of 5/8″ above the vise jaws.  Setting up for a wide blade, like a typical chef’s knife, w…[Read more]

I had a length of 3/4″ UHMW plastic rod, which I cut into two sets of 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, and 25mm sections.  I then drilled center holes in them with a 17/64″ drill bit.  The set lets me stack up any combination from 5mm to 55mm.  No reason you couldn’t make it out of a wood dowel, and it doesn’t have to be 3/4″ diameter and the holes don’t need to…[Read more]

On a slightly related topic, I wanted to mention that I’ve noticed some slight variation in angle readings when comparing one side of a stone/handle/stone assembly to the other.  I usually don’t take readings after I’ve done the initial set-up, but on a few occasions I’ve caught myself using a different grit than usual and on checking it, found…[Read more]

Phillyjudge:  The accuracy of the zero is completely unimportant.  It is only required to put you in the same plane as the blade.  If it happened to be off by a full degree, there are only minor consequences: your apex would be pointed 1 degree off of dead center and one bevel would be slightly wider than the other.  If the difference in width is…[Read more]

Look like Nakiri knives.  Are they pretty heavy?

I think one of the forum guys posted here another method of solving the problem.  He suggested grinding the ricasso down so that the stones clear it.  The idea is that such a modified ricasso would be almost unrecognizable.  Not having a blade like that, I’m not sure that ricasso thickness is also a problem.  On my Delica, the ricasso is both sle…[Read more]

At very low angles, I would expect edge-trailing breakouts would be significantly wore.

Welcome aboard Robert!

As a survivor of a couple of back surgeries (last one was a failure) I can relate to your problems.  Here’s hoping that your rehab goes well and that you get to enjoy your Gen 3 Pro.