tcmeyer

We certainly didn’t intend to throw you off the WE path, but if you’ve been managing well with whetstones on the scandi edges, by all means, stay with it.  The fact of the matter is that the Wicked Edge Systems will match the bevel angles as well or better than any sharpener on the market.  WE diamond stones generally remove steel as quickly as a…[Read more]

I have a Japanese knife that chips really badly and befuddled me for a while.  It has an extremely low bevel angle.  It came from the manufacturer at about 6 dps.  I sharpened it at about 8-10 dps, but it continued to chip badly.  Eventually I figured it out.  When I cut crusty artisanal breads, I’d apply a lot of force to break through the bott…[Read more]

Scandi grinds take a long time to sharpen, even if it’s just a touch-up.  There’s just so much steel to be removed.  Any chip in the edge will force you to regrind on a belt sander, a job requiring pretty sophisticated fixtures.  Most guys will resort to a micro-bevel.

Depending on the actual angle, you might need the Low-Angle-Adapter.

I don’t get out much anymore, so my knives and guns aren’t exposed to much, in terms of corrosion, so I can’t testify to their efficacy, but here’s a couple of items I use:

I have a couple more “wet wipe” packets of Birchwood Casey Sheath left over , which is now sold as their “Barricade Rust Preventative.”  Available in spray can, wet wipes or…[Read more]

Further proof that I can’t seem to shut up…

We happened to watch Antiques Roadshow last night, where a woman brought a piece of metal sculpture by Harry Bertoia, an Italian artist of mid-20th century.  The sculpture was of about a dozen standing rods of beryllium copper, each about 1/4″  in diameter for the first 3 feet, then maybe 1/2″ d…[Read more]

I haven’t seen or heard anything about the angle cube from HF, but the best ones I have are made in China.  I suspect that everyone uses the same accelerometer chips to sense gravity and extrapolate relative angular position.  The same chips are probably in your grandson’s smart phone.  In fact, you can download an app to turn your phone into an…[Read more]

Is that maybe the one for the Keys??  (height pins and/or Allen key)

I did a little checking around and read that BeCu should not be sharpened in an open environment where the particles may be inhaled.  Berylium poisoning is nasty and incurable.  This Blade Forums thread claims knowledge of at least one death from it.  https://bladeforums.com/threads/copper-beryllium.349871/#post-3105300   I think it could be sha…[Read more]

Not to be picking further nits, but while a millirad is 0.057 degrees, a millirad is not 1mm at 100m.  At 100m, a radian is 100m.  A milliradian is 100m divided by 1000, or 100mm (3.937 inches).  MRAD rifle scopes are generally calibrated for 1/10 MRAD clicks, or 0.394 inches at 100m.  MOA scopes are calibrated for 1/4″ clicks at 100yds.  1/4″…[Read more]

The “dip” just forward of the ricasso is usually a result of using the same diagonal strokes throughout the length of the edge.   If you consider that the very last point on the edge (at the bolster, where the stone comes to a complete stop) sees almost zero inches of abrasive passing over it when compared to the rest of the edge, you’ll r…[Read more]

I looked  a little deeper and it appears as though WiFi only works with mobile devices, not PCs.

I’ll be interested to hear how the WiFi works.  Thanks for the post.

Great start. Cruzer!  It’s hard to believe it’ll get much better from here, but it will!

The diamond spray on strops will get you from polished to very polished.  The difference probably won’t be detectable without looking very closely at the edge.  Probably won’y detect a performance improvement either.  I’m interested to see if others concur with me on that.

I think that the highest grit that will give you any “tooth” would be 10…[Read more]

I’ve got the 67-layer Damascus Zhen chef’s knife.  If the one you’re looking at is the same as mine, which I bought as a full-tang unfinished blade from Woodcraft, it uses VG-10 for the center lamination.  I see that now they sell them as finished blades.  Of all the knives in my kitchen knife drawer, it’s the one I use the most.  I’ve been thi…[Read more]

In my experience, a microbevel doesn’t add much durability where the angle difference is only 2 or 3 degrees, unless the blade is quite hard.  My Spyderco Delica in ZDP-189 (RC64 or so) tends to chip at 17 dps, but much less at 20 dps.  I don’t see that in my other EDC’s, or in my kitchen knives, where dulling or denting are the main form of w…[Read more]

Yup, that’s a shortcoming for the Gen 3 vises, and why I kept my Gen 1 vise, but I would think you’d still be able to get a good mount by strategically placing strips of tape to build-up the blade at the opposite corner tab or some mid-point.

If you have a RAM-mount with a gripper, you might be able to get by with only the one corner clamped in the vise.

I’m not sure you understood my last comment.  Starting with the blade mounted in its normal position, loosen the vise and rotate the blade to raise the Tanto edge until it’s at a reasonable angle for sharpening, then re-tighten the vise.  From here, you ought to be able to sharpen both edges, but you should check the angles and make adjustments a…[Read more]

Yep, you’ll need to avoid any rolling of the stones at the transition point to avoid rounding that point over.  As Mikedoh says, treat the edges as if they are completely different.  This could mean re-mounting the blade in the vise so as to put the Tanto edge in a horizontal orientation.  No sweet spot required.  Actually, any clamping pos…[Read more]