Chazz

SDMF74,  I have used the older larger “L” brackets that you have with the locking screw against the adjuster screw threads.  I have also used the newest mini “L” brackets with the knurled thumb wheel locking system.  Both these locking systems have their good and bad points.  Nonetheless the WEPS models are the the heart of this fine precision kni…[Read more]

I had forgotten the design of the locking mechanism for micro-angle adjuster screws on the newest version Gen 3 Pro model.  That it is comprised of a two screw set-up that locks the angle adjustment position by the physical contact within the threaded holes in the black end bracket between the screw’s flat end of the inside ball end adjuster…[Read more]

Doug has about 15 ready for sale.

Prices includes:
Fully assembled unit consisting of the adapter cap, strap and bar, shipped with first class package shipping including tracking (Lower 48).
Price for 1 unit $26
Price for 2 units $47
Add up to 4 stones stops, at no additional shipping, just pay $3 for each stop.

4 Stops still available…[Read more]

Ed’s micro-angle adjusters are a great way to go.  They work very well and eliminate the problem.

For the WE120s or WE130s, if you want to try an inexpensive fix that may do the trick, you might try buying a fishing reel drag washer at a Fishing Bait and Tackle Shop that repairs fishing reels.   Try to place a drag washer on the angle adj…[Read more]

I just finished this 24 post “Rack-It”.  This is called the “Rigid Hybrid” model.  It works just the same sitting flat on the sharpening work top or it mounts on the wall by integrated supported hangers.  It was designed for those with limited work space or just wanting to be able to hang it up out of the way.  This is a good size for those use…[Read more]

Fancy that…someone just left me another free book of “Sharpness Test Media” at my front door:

The $23 spool of testing media is supposed to be good for 325 tests. That’s about 7 cents per each test!  I test a kitchen knife, at least, at the tip, the middle and the heel, before sharpening and again after sharpened so with 6 tests per each knife, that’s around 54 knives tested per spool.  The cost is  less then $0.50 per knife.   54 knive…[Read more]

Tommie, the best most precise model can measure to 1 gram differences in the applied force needed to sever the testing filament.  It is also about twice the price of the least precise tester that only has 25 gram precision.  When you consider a BESS sharpness score of 200 grams or less indicates a very sharp knife edge it’s debateable if 1 gram o…[Read more]

I have used the “Three Finger Sharpness Test”.  With a very sharp knife edge you can tell when you just ever so gently place your three fingers against the knife edge.  It’s really amazing how the brain can sense the danger and you’ll inherently know not to even move or slide your fingers.  You can really get a good sense for “very sharp” VS “j…[Read more]

Bill K, the WE100 with it’s Standard Vise will accommodate even the thickest knives.  It may require with very thick implements that you use longer clamping and tightening screws to allow the vise to spread wide enough and still clamp tight.  This is a clamping characteristic the updated WE130 with the Gen 3 Vise cannot match.

Both the old s…[Read more]

Danny, in an attempt to help you with the terminology or nomenclature for what I believe you are describing that you intend to do:

To apply a wider angled bevel to the very edge or apex of a knife sharpened already with a more acute angle profile, is called a micro-bevel. A micro-bevel is generally applied with a few very light pressure strokes…[Read more]

Also be careful of your choice of cleaning solutions you use in the ultrasonic.  Some products may loosen the stones by affecting the adhesive that secures the stones. “Simple Green” is one of these products you should never use.

-Terry there is a minimum angle where the stones will collide with the vise for every knife.  The size and height of the knife above the vise jaw line effects this.  Taller and larger knives are less of an issue then smaller shorter knives.  The knife does not need to be clamped in the vise so it rests on the positioning key posts.  That is not…[Read more]

There is a downloadable instruction manual I found by Google searching DXL360S.  I’m pretty sure it’s exactly what you have, but maybe check it out.  I remember I searched for a YouTube video once before and there wasn’t one on calibrating it.

Just so we’re clear, I use really leather chamois, not a synthetic.  I find it stays put where I use it and compresses well and holds tightly without any shifting  or sliding.

I too found when using layers of blue painter’s tape that the strong compression of the gen 3 vise did force the layers of tape to slide across one another and shift how t…[Read more]

Not intending to shut you down.  Just trying to help you get the most out of what this forum can offer.

-Terry, we’re attempting to answer all of your questions in this one thread from the very start, greeting a newcomer, into and through some direct sharpening technique questions, throughout the entire sharpening process.  I don’t see any reason not to help you out.  After-all it is your thread you started.  The only problem I see is there is so ma…[Read more]

FYI, by convention on this forum we generally speak of bevel angles per side, (dps for degree per side), as opposed to the sum of the sides or inclusively, (incl).  To avoid confusion it’ll help to label or define the angle’s as you mean them.

I would keep working on your technique to insure you are apexing the knife edge on both sides, and…[Read more]

This introduces another point of discussion for me:

The angles the cube reads allows you to set the guide rod angles the same, no matter how thick the stones are.  An angle = an angle.

It is correct, a marker can show you when your angle is off by it’s removal from only a portion of the bevel.  If the angle is then double checked and verified a…[Read more]

The sharpie can be used anytime, or again and again, if you choose to use that method to determine you are working the entire knife edge and bevels, as indicated by the complete removal of the sharpie ink.  What method you use and how you use the method is determined by what you’re comfortable using.

I find I can get and see same results…[Read more]