New system
- This topic has 32 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 09/15/2019 at 11:07 am by
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I thought the sharpie was just to find the proper angle, and not reapplied again that.
The sharpie can be used anytime, or again and again, if you choose to use that method to determine you are working the entire knife edge and bevels, as indicated by the complete removal of the sharpie ink. What method you use and how you use the method is determined by what you’re comfortable using.
I find I can get and see same results simply observing the edge with a USB Microscope.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)I use the sharpie for every stone change as an extra check that I set the right angle. You are correct in saying we use the sharpie line in establishing the correct sharpening angle but….Keep in mind that the sharpening stones can and will vary in thickness from grit to grit. The difference is minimal, but is there so, following the advice of the more experienced members, I check the angles with every stone change.
I use the sharpie for every stone change as an extra check that I set the right angle. You are correct in saying we use the sharpie line in establishing the correct sharpening angle but….Keep in mind that the sharpening stones can and will vary in thickness from grit to grit. The difference is minimal, but is there so, following the advice of the more experienced members, I check the angles with every stone change.
This introduces another point of discussion for me:
The angles the cube reads allows you to set the guide rod angles the same, no matter how thick the stones are. An angle = an angle.
It is correct, a marker can show you when your angle is off by it’s removal from only a portion of the bevel. If the angle is then double checked and verified as set correctly and precisely, then the marker is probably indicating the stone is not be held and used with the same finger position and/or finger pressure which it was used with the previous grit. Changing stone pressure and finger position can steer the stone’s contact on the bevel.
The newest version wider W.E. guide rods and the new tighter fitting W.E. plastic paddles, (included standard with all the latest version models), help eliminate most of this inconsistency, if your hand and finger pressure is always the same. Using the marker can help you identify how you need to hold the paddles and position your fingers on the paddles to efficiently and completely work the entire bevel. This is indicated by total clean removal of the marker when the angles are set the same. Also, it’s indicated with a complete uniform scratch pattern across the entire bevel height from shoulder to apex when the marker is not used and the bevel is inspected with the USB scope.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)5 users thanked author for this post.
Keep involved in this forum and you’ll learn the right way to use the Wicked Edge, not by watching videos from that YouTube channel that you mentioned before.
1 user thanked author for this post.
FYI, by convention on this forum we generally speak of bevel angles per side, (dps for degree per side), as opposed to the sum of the sides or inclusively, (incl). To avoid confusion it’ll help to label or define the angle’s as you mean them.
I would keep working on your technique to insure you are apexing the knife edge on both sides, and along the entire knife’s length. This is key with each and every grit. It helps to check your angles with the cube to verify and adjust your guide rods angle settings with each and every grit in your sharpening progression.
Counting strokes is a good method to keep your effort balanced from the knife’s side to side, but it’s arbitrary, just a number guess. The count you choose may not reflect whats actually needed to achieve the sharpened edge you’re after.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)4 users thanked author for this post.
If your stones are truly broken in and assuming that your technique is good, it is still possible to get poor results if the knife is so cheap that the steel has not been properly heat treated. I have a hunting knife that was a groomsman gift that I have never been able to get a decent edge on because of this problem.
I suggest following the advise of the other forum members (checking angle after each grit change, working with a sharpie and magnification as a guide, using light pressure on the stones, holding the stones as consistently as possible). If this blade doesn’t get sharp after that then move on and work on another knife. You can always come back to it once you get more confident.
Finally, a set of strops can dramatically improve the smoothness and push cutting ability of a sharp edge. If you don’t have any then get the 4 / 2 micron set as your next upgrade.
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