Chazz

Edward,  The Wicked Edge is designed and machine very precisely to maintain the sharpening angle across the blade length when operated correctly.  Realize that the individual grinds and the steel thickness on knives may vary across the length of the knife blades.  Some knives may be ground thinner towards the knife’s tip to allow for fine  and det…[Read more]

Ed, both strokes, the down and on, “edge leading” and, the up and off, ” edge trailing” have a place in sharpening with the Wicked Edge.  You’ll need to use both of these strokes in a systematic manner.  Then decide for yourself based on your results, which stroke you prefer and how you prefer to utilize them in your sharpening technique.  Th…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Edward Riley.

I always check my angle settings with each and every new grit I’m using in my sharpening progressions.  If it is not set at the initial setting, 18 degrees in your case, I re-adjust and lock it in at 18 degrees through the entire sharpening process.  This insures your final profile is the same a…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Howard.  If you are re-profiling the bevel, that is changing the bevel angle from what it was originally, this may require a lot of steel removal till the new bevel is ground from the shoulder to the knife edge.  This is the issue especially when lowering the bevel angle on the new profile.  Depending on how mu…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum michael.

Yes definitely buy longer guide rods.  I use mine all the time.  I couldn’t sharpen without them.

SVan, all of the Wicked Edge models worked very well and will produce a very fine, very sharp, mirrored polished knife edge repeatedly, once the user learns how to use the sharpeners, well.  All models do have their limitations and at the same time they excel in some areas better then other models.  Not anyone model is perfect or necessarily b…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum Samuel Vanchieri.  I have mostly chef ‘s or kitchen knives and only a few folders or every-day-carry, (EDC), knives.  Some of the kitchen knives are uneven or asymmetrical beveled knives, with a different bevel angle from one side to the other.  These knives require that I use WE130 when the bevel angles, from side to side, ar…[Read more]

I sharpen only sitting at my dining room table.  I have both models.  I lowered my Gen 3 Pro.  It no longer has the under-mounted shelf unit that elevated it.

I use both end grain wood and the plastic type.

I save the plastic type for meats, fish and raw foods, especially fowl and poultry with blood or biologic juices that could possible contaminate or transfer onto to other foods that could make us sick.  These plastic type boards are easier to clean well and to sanitize.

I use the wood for the…[Read more]

This is my opinion based on my personal observations and my user experiences:

The older 1500 grit stones owned by Michael Blakely and Frans are the originally released 1500/glass blank combo, stone set.  I have two of these older stones and two of the more recently released, (this past year) newer 1500 grit stones.  The older stones in my user e…[Read more]

Michael,  how long ago did you purchase the 1500 grit stone?  Is it a couple years ago or is it just recently, this year.  What color is the plastic paddle and the center finger grips the 1500 diamond grit stone is mounted on?

Clay, I believe those of use with some sharpening experience recognize that the same grit particle size when adhered to a steel plate as with a diamond sharpening stone and applied to a stropping medium through a paste, suspension or an emulsion, or adhered to a plastic film do behave (possibly very) differently.  I believe if the grits you list…[Read more]

Keith, the Kramer by Zwilling Knives Series are made with four different steels: Damascus Stainless (SG2), High Carbon Steel 52100, the Meiji in Damascus Stainless Steel (FC61) and the collection I own, the Stainless Steel FC61 (Sandvik Knife Steel).  All of the various size and style knives making up these four collection are available in these…[Read more]

I want to add, to make it very clear, I do not assert that these products or any products introduced, marketed and sold by Wicked Edge, Clay and his company are not top quality and fully functional products.   I enjoy using them all.  I just suggest the documentation as requested could be more forthcoming.

Bandaid’s question/assertion may have been direct, gruff and undiplomatic but I don’t think it’s unreasonable to expect the specifications (i.e., grit particle size) of a product being marketed and sold is a known commodity, that can be shared.  Afterall how to you rate the grits in order to name them without this information.  Obviously W.E. a…[Read more]

I don’t intentional try to raise a burr after the first coarsest grit when I do, as the starting point to be sure I’ve apexed the bevel.

I do however, draw a burr, with each and every subsequent grit just by the nature of my technique.  Using each stone long enough and well enough to create the evenly aligned scratch patterns I’m looking for,…[Read more]

Nicely done KP Church.  Welcome to the W.E. Forum.  Which model WEPS are you using?

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum “SquatchSharp”.  The Gen 3 Pro micro-angle adjustment screws working loose is an issue some Wicked Edge users have experienced.  “Stuffing something between the bolts” may not seem right.  It can be a quick, inexpensive, and simple fix, nonetheless.   It’s worth trying however wonky it seems, if your looking for…[Read more]

Brewbear, thanks for sharing that.  I didn’t actually research Dean’s specific knife.  It may be one with the secondaty bevel, like you mentioned.  Either way,  I would sharpen them the same way as I suggested only sharpening just the secondary or the edge bevel.  The primary grind shouldn’t need addressing in that situation.

If you look ther…[Read more]

With regards to the burr I would attempt to use an edge leading stroke on the side I was sharpening as my last sharpening strokes with each grit in the progression, in an attempt to limit the burr formation, all together.  I would also employ a felt block pulled down the apex after each grit to attempt to remove any remnant of a burr.

If there…[Read more]