Tommie

Don’t go by the polished appearance.  Try the edge for sharpness after 1.5º to 2º reduced angle stropping.  It is sharpness we’re seeking first.  Get your technique down and accomplish sharp edges.  You may not produce a polished edge working only up to 1000 grit and with 5µ and 3.5µ strops, especially this early in your sharpening experie…[Read more]

I own and have used this model.  I use it with a Windows OS.  It states it’s compatible with Mac  It does everything I need my scope to do, including take pictures.

Again that’s a personal thing.  My preferred unit is this inexpensive model .  

It does everything I need it to do.  It takes some practice to figure out how to use the scope to your advantage.  I use it hand held with a laptop on a resolution setting of 600 X 800, on high power.  There are lots of models with better features.  I use it strict…[Read more]

A lighted magnified helper like a loupe or USB microscope helps you see the results of your efforts to determine the results you’re working towards.

Clay recommends you spritz the leather strops with rubbing alcohol when using them.  Give this a try.  Maybe it’ll give you results more in line with your expectations.  They’re is really nothing you can do that is wrong.  Each of us have personalized our techniques and use a method that we like the results.  It may differ from what I do.  It’s…[Read more]

I prefer to allow the applied stropping compound to dry into the leather overnight before I use the strops at 1 1/2 to 2 degree lower, more acute, angle then the sharpened angle.  Some compound will be left on the steel.

A while back I was purchasing inexpensive folding knives from Amazon just to gain sharpening experience on that style knives, since most of my experience up to then was with kitchen/chef’s knives or fish filet knives.

I found lots of knives under $20 dollars.  Here’s a couple I found.

Buck Knife

Sanrenmu

There’s lots more.

Hopefully this will help:      https://support.wickededgeusa.com/portal/kb/articles/grit-comparison-table

You may need to download the above charts to read them.  The 0.6µ and the 1.4µ micro-fine stones are described in particle size.  Those you may need to place in the chart yourself extrapolating the size.

I  really believe when you’re stones are broken in and you gain some more experience and develop and employ good technique you’ll see that you’ll have an easier time polishing a 1000 grit with the strops to a very polished edge.  Realize it may take some effort with the strops.  More than just a few swipes to either side.  It also may take a fou…[Read more]

These same ceramic stone grit pairs, Superfine-1200/1600 and Microfine 1.4µ/0.6µ are still available from W.E.  The difference today is the plastic handles have a slightly different diameter bore hole corresponding to the slightly larger diameter guide rods, included with the latest model WEPS sold.  This change was to improve the tolerance bet…[Read more]

NorCalQ, you are correct on both counts.  The new not yet broken-in stones will scratch rougher then when they are broken in.  During break-in loose diamond stones are shed and the high stones get knocked off or knocked down.  The broken-in stones yield more consistent, even and predictable scratch patterns.

Also as you progress up through yo…[Read more]

Both the GO and the WE100 utilize the same “standard” clamp system.  I suggest your read this if you have not already done so.  It explains the differences in the models and their vices.

Just a suggestion to help complicate your decision on what to purchase…The Pro Pack II (is a very complete system) for $675.  For $549 you could can start wi…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Beorn!

You are correct with your statement on adjustability for the WE GO.

On the WE100, you can unscrew, and remove, the Square Angle Bar.  Flip it around so the detents are facing the rear, then remount it securely.  Then exchange the pointed rod arm locking screws with flat end 10/32 screws.  With out ut…[Read more]

Bob, glad it worked.  That is a helpful solution for many other sharpener  I’m guessing it’d probably work just as well even if it was an inch or so shorter then the ends of the blade.  Especially if the blade was clamped in the center of it’s length.

I like your stone stops.  (I see one in the bottom of the photo).  We love to see user inno…[Read more]

The WE130, IMO, is the best all around, model.  The only edge it cannot sharpen simply is a convex grind.  It can do it but it’s a slower process with more manual adjustments to get it done.  The WE130 accomplishes what other models can’t.  Maybe when you’re ready to buy, in April, there may be an option to purchase the Pro Pack III with-out the…[Read more]

Bob,  There you go, I feel better now.  Ingenuity is helpful when sharpening with a Wicked Edge.   Usually in the flexing situation we offset the flex with the opposite hand supporting the back side to apply resistance against the stone.  It can be a slow and tedious process.

Let me say this, once you get your edge profile established with the…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, Bob.  Can you post a picture showing us how you’re clamping the Cleaver, and possible the portion of the cleaver your clamping?  I have not had any knives wiggle in the WE130 jaws.  I wrap a small rectangle of real leather chamois up around the knife spines, covering both sides, before I clamp it in the vice.  The…[Read more]

Actually,  the AAG is parallel to the vice’s jaw line, and the base.  The blade is not parallel because it’s rotated some to optimize the sharpening efficiency.  Each knife I position as needed to best utilize the “sweet spot.”

Please be aware it usually requires about 10 knives worth of sharpening before your stones will be approaching “break-in”.  It’s generally recommended to hold off on your good stuff till they are broken-in.  The ceramics are one good progression choice, as are other routes like 1500 grit diamond stones, or lapping films.  You certainly can use str…[Read more]