NotSharpEnuff

You only need to raise a burr once during the sharpening of a knife. It doesn’t hurt to raise a burr again during the sharpening process (aside from a tiny quantity of unnecessarily removed blade stock).

For resharpening I would suggest starting with the same grit that you finished with or perhaps the previous grit. For example, if you sharpened…[Read more]

It says that it is made of 420 HC. That should be a reasonable steel to sharpen, but it is possible the heat treatment was done poorly. Are you able to raise a burr?

I think the idea is interesting and would probably be possible, but I’m not sure if it would actually be more accurate or constitute a time savings over the sharpie / magnifier method.

Are you thinking that amplitude of the signal will be the way you determine the angle of maximum contact? One potential problem I anticipate is the need for a very…[Read more]

Do you have the Tormek 4000 grit Japanese style stone?

I think Marc is right on in his follow up question. The 1500 grit diamond is a stone that you will want eventually because it is a very efficient followup to the 1000 grit. The 1200 / 1600 progression gives a very similar result to the 1500 diamond stone alone. For that reason, I would recommend the 1500 / glass over the 1200 / 1600 pair. Diamond…[Read more]

I would defer to Clay.

https://support.wickededgeusa.com/portal/kb/articles/how-to-clean-your-diamond-stones

Simple green will remove the plates from the handles. It dissolves the adhesive.

I thought you’d come to that conclusion after seeing the results up close. The progression from 1500# to the 6 micron diamond lapping film has been well vetted. Adding the 9 micron film would be unnecessary for the majority of use cases.

I would encourage you to read this thread from when the 1500 grit diamond stone was first released. It contains a discussion about which lapping films are the best to use after the 1500 grit and Clay posted some very informative microscope images to guide the discussion.

I asked that in an earlier thread. Clay said no, but that we will see something new at Blade 2019.

Wicked Edge has their own manufacturer for diamond plates. They treat the identity of that manufacturer as a trade secret.

“We keep the source of our diamond stones a carefully guarded trade secret ;-). I can tell you that they are monocrystalline diamonds.”

My pleasure, Frustrated inc.

Also, take a close look at the Nanuk 905, 908 and 909 cases as well. The quality is just outstanding. You will really get what you pay for.

I use an EXTREME-235H105 n Equipment Case for my stones. It’s a good case, and the price is certainly affordable.

A Nanuk 910 would also be a possibility, but a smaller Nanuk case could be a solution as well.

I just love the Nanuk cases, but they do not come cheap…

https://support.wickededgeusa.com/portal/kb/articles/how-long-will-the-diamond-stones-last

60-70 knives is unreasonably short life for WE stones even if they are used with a lot of pressure. They do wear in and become much less aggressive during initial use. They may have mistaken their nicely broken in stones for being worn out.

This is a design change. They no longer put lock nuts with the guide rods. I don’t see why you would need to lock the guide rods into the ball joint thread. They don’t work their way out during use in my experience.

Man, my reading comprehension is low today. Yes, protecting the pivot on a folding knife is a good idea while sharpening. I was thinking specifically about using tape to protect the inner workings of the generation 3 style clamp when I made my previous comment.

Welcome Brian!

I would like to comment that I have not found any of the precautions you mentioned to be necessary for the proper functioning of my sharpener. The ball joints on my rod arms are every bit as smooth today as they were on day one and I have used them without any covering over a period of two years. The same goes for my generation 3…[Read more]