NotSharpEnuff

+1 on the leather chamois from here…

Your Paddle Bumpers are a very interesting idea! Great work!

My solution has been to use some simple aluminium shaft collars. They can be tightened so much that they will stay in place, no matter what happens.

Still I would love to try your bumpers though…

To make the changing of stones easier, I ordered some Ruland QCL-4-A Quick Clamping S…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge forum!

I presume that the “L word kit” is a Lansky setup? I think any lightweight oil will work as long as it doesn’t have a tendency to go rancid (like many cooking oils do) and is food safe.

I don’t have a sharpening business, so I’m not really qualified to answer your question about pricing. Sharpening knives on a…[Read more]

The answer to getting rid of the grind marks towards the tip and heel is simply more strokes. The middle always gets worked more than the extremities of the blade. I would suggest dropping back to 800 or 1000 grit and spending extra time working the heel and tip at each grit in your progression. All together, it looks like a nice edge.

I have only used the cow leather myself. From what I understand, the advantage of kangaroo leather is that it doesn’t compress as much, so there is less risk of rounding the edge while stropping at angles close to the sharpening angle.

The nanocloth is designed to be a grit free base for whatever stropping compound you wish to use. The naturally…[Read more]

That turned out nicely! I like how the compartments are just the right sizes.

The 1200 / 1600 ceramic will get you a very similar result to using just the 1500 diamond. Keep in mind that the 1500 diamond plate will be much more efficient and will require far fewer strokes to get the result.

This is one of the reasons that use of the Tormek small knife adapter is a compromise. It involves some estimation on the vertical positioning and then there’s the problem of repeating that clamping position the next time you want to re-sharpen the knife. I try to avoid using that adapter if I can clamp a blade in another way.

I think either would be a valid choice. The 1/0.5 is going to be a closer match to the grit of the final 0.6 micron ceramic, but the grit progression from stones to strops is not a direct correlation. I would choose the 4 / 2 micron set, but I can’t say that I have a solid argument to support that choice. This is one of those things where there…[Read more]

this still up for sale?

Nice work!

I have yet to sharpen the serrated Tojiro knife that I posted. It is still very sharp as it came from the factory because I only use it on my end grain cutting board and it doesn’t get used more than a few times a week. I anticipate that I’ll probably put a micro-bevel on it with my Spyderco Sharpmaker when the time comes to refresh the edge. At…[Read more]

Alan,

Your modifications are always so professional and clean looking. Great job!

I would prefer polished edge for both.

For bread I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LVIO3O/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For kitchen blades I like high polish for vegetables and meat both. Butchers tend to go for a more coarse edge, but that may also be because they are really hard on their knives and don’t want to spend a ton of time getting a refined one. I don’t break down a ton of proteins, but a highly polished edge melts through raw chicken. For vegetables I t…[Read more]

Marc’s point about getting the blade clamped the same way for re-sharpening is a big one. Use the alignment guide and record those settings! This will save you a lot of effort for future work.