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Can/will Gen 3 Pro Clamp damage blade coating?

Recent Forums Main Forum Can/will Gen 3 Pro Clamp damage blade coating?

This topic contains 11 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Haffner 02/19/2019 at 1:53 am.

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  • #49376

    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    Just wondering how much of a precaution I would need to practice when mounting a coated blade on the clamp on Gen 3 Pro.

    Is it recommended that the blade be covered in painter’s tape or whatever to reduce the clamp damage (if any)?

    Or is the clamp relatively safe to grab onto the coated blades without damaging?

    #49381

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1794

    Tony, I think you need to not take the chance with any knife, that any sort of damage, however slight, would really harm the knives appearance.  I generally use a small rectangular patch of real leather chamois, dry, between my knives and the vise jaws. (All my vises are Gen 3 vises).  It serves two purposes.  It allows for a more secure clamping of the blade and it protects the knife steel from damage from both the jaws and any sharpening debris.  This method has worked well for me.  I’m still cutting up the first chamois I purchased almost four years ago to give this method a try.  I have used it pretty much for every knife since.

    I do cover the hinge and locking mechanism of folding knifes with blue painters tape to keep metal sharpening dust and/or whetstone swarth out of this area.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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    #49390

    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    Tony, I think you need to not take the chance with any knife, that any sort of damage, however slight, would really harm the knives appearance. I generally use a small rectangular patch of real leather chamois, dry, between my knives and the vise jaws. (All my vises are Gen 3 vises).

    Good point MarcH.

    I have initially just sharpened some knives without anything between blade and clamp (as clamp seemed to be rubbery enough at the time). After a while, I started noticing slight “grindy” feeling when clamping the blade and I wasn’t too sure whether it was clamp grinding on the blade itself.

    From then on, I had been using a cut out paper towel (folded several times to provide extra buffer) to wrap around the blade. Seemed to be secure enough and have done several sharpening this way. I’ll try swapping over from paper towel to leather chamois for future sharpening as it seems like more secure and permanent solution than cutting out paper towel every time I do sharpening. Thanks for the tip.

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    #49391

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1794

    I’d limit the layers.  When I was first getting started with W.E. I tried a lot of cominations. Thicker, layered and more compressible materials, including multiple layers of blue painters tape did shift or slide on the layers, (despite the adhesive).  One layer seemed more stable and effective then any other method.

    It is an advantage using the tension adjustable Gen 3 vise, also.  It does simplify and improve the clamping process.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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    #49392

    Tony Cho
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 5

    I’d limit the layers. When I was first getting started with W.E. I tried a lot of cominations. Thicker, layered and more compressible materials, including multiple layers of blue painters tape did shift or slide on the layers, (despite the adhesive). One layer seemed more stable and effective then any other method. It is an advantage using the tension adjustable Gen 3 vise, also. It does simplify and improve the clamping process.

    Will keep that in mind. Thanks.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #49393

    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 33
    • Replies: 1808

    All good ideas.  I use a single layer of the foil tape used for sealing duct work.  It clamps beautifully, will never move on you and doesn’t tend to leave adhesive on the blade.  It can be a PIA to remove, so I try to leave one corner of the tape folded over to give me something to pull on.

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    #49394

    airscapes
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 164

    Tcmeyer, I have a roll or aluminum tape that probably came  from my uncles house when he passed and he probably brought it home  from Boeing (work) prior to that in the 70s.. is this the type of tape you are talking about, it measures about .22 mm/ .0095″ thick?

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    #49397

    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 33
    • Replies: 1808

    I’m not sure how thick it is, but it sure looks like the same stuff.

    #49399

    NotSharpEnuff
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 61

    Airscapes,

    Most likely it is speed tape.  We use it where I work – Wikipedia  blurb below.

    Speed tape is an aluminium pressure-sensitive tape used to do minor repairs on aircraft and racing cars. It is used as a temporary repair material until a more permanent repair can be carried out. It has an appearance similar to duct tape, for which it is sometimes mistaken, but its adhesive is capable of sticking on an airplane fuselage or wing at high speeds, hence the name.

    Ed K.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #49400

    airscapes
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 164

    It is interesting stuff. Can’t really find Scotch but if it is the same as the 3m, maybe I should sell it.. $360 a roll!     Not real useful around the house..  As a child I recall my grandfather putting that over the crack between the stove and the cabinet to keep my mother happy.. No crumbs under the stove!..   Think it will work for the purpose we are discussing here or have too much stick to the adhesive after clamping?

    #49401

    NotSharpEnuff
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 61

    I’ve only seen it when it is on the aircraft.  Never watched how it was removed so I can’t say.

    Ed K.

    #49424

    Haffner
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 28

    +1 on the leather chamois from here…

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