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+1 on the leather chamois, I double stick tape it (2 pieces) to the inside of the jaws for convenience. It holds up great, blade doesn’t move and no damage.

They say that your own neurological system will not allow you to cut yourself in “normal” type circumstances. Of course, like anything the details: no coughing, bumps, etc and you must feel in a tangential not lateral with your fingers. Actually just like you are feeling the burr.

For sharpness out of the clamp, I use a thumbnail scrape (only…[Read more]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>To me, the question is how to check the sharpness while still mounted edge up in the clamp. Very much how how can definitively feel a burr along the entire length by feeling with your finger in an upwards edge trailing direction.</p>
My favorite thumb nail scrape works great out of the clamp because you can rely on…[Read more]

Nice !!

I meant 40 % alcohol, or a good double IPA will also work.

You can hold almost a 1/2″ thick blade in it, height needed for low angle dps, not much higher than LAA, $10

I like to spritz some acetone on my impregnated leather just to get some “sort of slurry” going. I also do NOT back off the 1-2 deg which I have seen herein. Leather is a touch thing which is similar to the lightest, but firmest, feel thing you can imagine. You are actually abrading ie. forcing the metal to flow vs. abrasion with the diamonds…[Read more]

Just a reminder that a jig add on can be very simple….the angle gauge is critical plus AAG for redoing a specific blade quickly.

Do something like this, it costs $10…. holds any thickness and flexible, not to be a PIA but WEPS really owes us something as simple as this.

So again I say, the break in period for the WEPS paddles is an unnecessary inhibitor and should be eliminated at the source. It’s just silly especially for the investment $.

Clay, not sure about the cons, most of my understanding from our core forum guys is:

1. During breaking, do NOT use them on a good knife, you can put deep gauges into the edge which you may never get out (they show up later for strange metallurgical reasons).

2. I have never heard anyone suggest to do some major reprofiling on all your good…[Read more]

tcmeyer, you just made an excellent point about the need for a definitive break in process. Makes me think of switching to stones.

Rubbish – LOL

So, how are we supposed to know when they are broken in fully tip to toe. Also, how are we supposed to know when we should replace them.

Looks great

Be aware that these are hot glued on and you can get replacement leather for single $’s per from Clay and then replace them. I did it and my guess is that with minimal cleanup you can flip them over (but may not be worth the risk for $2 per). You can also cut any leather to size and hot glue it. Just watch the thickness.

My feeling is that at this price point, the diamond paddles should be broken in at the factory. How hard can it be under a controlled rubbing machine. Why should we have to do it ? I am thinking of replacing my 100 grit paddles (most aggressive use) and to tell you the truth it pisses me off that I would have to “break them in”, us amateurs do NOT…[Read more]

My 2 cents:

I raise a full length burr at 100 grit, verify it with edge trailing finger swipe (obviously it is on one side only), I then do 1 edge leading swipe (consistently soft) along the full length on the side that the burr is curled to.

Finger swipe again, no burr, move on. 25 strokes per side up thru diamond film and good to go. Every…[Read more]

A vid

I had the same need for a reasonably cheap grinder to fix chips, tips, bolsters, thinning, polishing, etc before going to WEPS for fine tune edging. I wanted flexibility and variable speed. Viel and the like started at $300 & up (way up). That wasn’t for me as a garage once in a while sharpener. If I was trying to make $$, then I understand…[Read more]

The king of mods !!