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If you are doing expensive knives be sure to tape the knife well. Mysterious scratches show up on the blade face many times no matter how careful I am. Pretty much impossible to remove by hand.

I suspect that your knife is not mounted perfectly normal (ie. orthogonal) to the plane that your stones are being measured from via the digital angle gauge. It should not matter much though if you truly have a full burr on both sides. However, if you are looking for “perfection” doing 3-5x+ more strokes on the correct side will raise a bigger…[Read more]

I am a proponent of not backing off the angle at all when I strop. My goal is to strop the whole bevel shoulder to apex and if I back off then I am relying on the correct pressure to fully engage the bevel and to me that’s nearly impossible. So I use the same angles and concentrate on the gentlest pressure needed to fully engage the bevel. I…[Read more]

Sounds like you have a solid approach and know what you are doing. IMO, rogue scratches are very difficult, time consuming and quite possibly impossible to avoid unless you take many hours in a super clean total environment. Our diamond stones et al. are not at the lapping and polishing quality level. I stopped driving myself nuts with “where did…[Read more]

Keep in mind that cheap knives have cheap steel and an 18 dps edge will not last long. It will be much sharper though before you add a 20 dps micro bevel. Its always a trade off unfortunately.

Very nice, how long did it take and what progression ?

TC, I took your advice and about the glass although I could not find a good piece so I use my white ceramic Messermeister rod (supposedly around 1200 grit but I feel that ceramics don’t follow the scratch grit thing well at all). Anyway, I did another composite below showing 2 rows of Baseline scratch patterns on a cheap knife (800 thru 3000),…[Read more]

Pic below, I still had interference issues trying to put a 17 DPS edge on the knife. I could have done some grinding on the high rise but I didn’t have the equipment with me. Had to go to the standard clamp and do 3 sections with knife moves which requires blending which is a major PIA. The edge came out mirrored but with a keen eye you can see…[Read more]

May use it tomorrow, will show video or pic

I agree. Been saying that for 2+ years. Came up with my own rube golberg.

Send me an email to tmorganjets at gmail.com

It should play, its just a link to a shared Google photo/video thing. It has your rod stop thing that you gave me. Did you see my post about “Touch Up”. I had you in mind for a prototype on 3d print.

I made a quick video of the alternate method of finding the correct blade placement in the WEPS clamp to honor the OEM knife curve bevel to the tip. I find it much faster although it is a 2 hand kind of thing. Placement is important for a knifes first time in the WEPS clamp then if you document the location with the AAG and key, you never have to…[Read more]

I have the same problem and have posted a few times recently about it. It is especially prevalent if you are introducing new 2200/3000 into a 3 year old set. I did a scope pic analysis on another recent thread and am currently working on how much I need to scrub the new 2200/3000 on some TBD material (glass, granite, etc) in order to use them.…[Read more]

Clay, I think you may have hit the correct “temporarily”. I just spent my corona evening doing my best scope analysis at home on my 6 month old 2200/3000 paddles with my 3+ years old 100-1500 paddles. Nothing too fancy but here is what I did (all numbers are grit):

1. Baseline Pass – Took a POS paring knife thru first bevel at 100 to 1500 to…

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How about this: drill 2 opposite side square holes to fit a WEPS paddle at say 16 and 18 degs so we can use any of our paddles instead of a ceramic. I find that under a scope those ceramics put a much coarser scratch pattern than the 1200 grit they claim. Ceramic is just different. Then if you can devise an easy attachment to hold the blade…[Read more]

It might take me a while but in the meantime you can read thru this:

https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/geometry-and-kinematics-of-guided-rod-sharpeners/

The guy who wrote the analysis is one of the real smart ones (unlike me). LOL

So, I went away from the sharpie approach because for a knife in the WEPS for the 1st time it seemed like an inefficient way to do it. Especially if you have to move the knife multiple times, resharpie it, do another stone pass and eyeball your result. This and the below only needs to be done one time as long as you record the settings of…[Read more]