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Have you figured out an effective way to handle serrated knives ?  The best I came up with is to focus on putting new tips on each serration (using full blade strokes) and not to worry about the “inner” serration curvatures. Its not perfect but it refreshes the initial bite that a serrated knife has.

I also strive for speed. Attached is a link to my Jersey Double Stroke.

Also, I currently use the 50/80 stone which will reprofile in 1 minute. I watched your video and you mentioned angles up to 25 DPS I think which is probably appropriate for the cheaper steels because they dull real quick (crap steel) but I prefer 20…[Read more]

Hmm, maybe I am leaving some sharpness on the table. I’ll have to try it.

Question: I zero out my angle cube on one side of the clamp on the bar (with the angle divots) and when I put it on the other side of the clamp the angle is off by 0.4 deg. I disassembled the bar and it is not bent. I tried to recal the cube and got the same result. Do you…[Read more]

I don’t bother with checking for a burr after the first diamond paddle. I also don’t bother checking/tweaking the angle for each paddle change. I do check my results in process with my USB scope. It’s a big time saver. Tuning up a knife which was previously in the WEPS with the Angle Alignment Gauge takes less than 5 minutes. A new knife will…[Read more]

I went with the 1500/glass paddle. After the 800/1000 it does a great finishing job. You can put the coarsest diamond film on the glass. Also, sharpening down to 9 dps while extremely sharp leaves a lot to be desired for edge durability.

I think the new design of extending the original 1/4″ flat square bosses all the way down the jaws may introduce minimal planar contact to the 2 knife faces depending on the geometry of the knife and the as-machined flatness of the extended new bosses. There also needs to be sufficient “self correcting play” within the jaw assembly to “find”…[Read more]

This is a repeat of the post that I put in the second thread that was started on this:

I think that the root cause of your issue is that the current jaws no longer have the square flats on them (see pic). I have the Field version from ~5 years ago. I setup my kitchen knife to check for wiggle and there is none either with my chamois insert or…[Read more]

I think that the root cause of your issue is that the current jaws no longer have the square flats on them (see pic). I have the Field version from ~5 years ago. I setup my kitchen knife to check for wiggle and there is none either with my chamois insert or without it. I use the chamois to protect the knife surface from nasty little marks due to…[Read more]

Nice gig, its something I’ve thought about for my retirement hobby job. I’m 62 and live in NJ. Where are you located ?

Wow, they haven’t been around that long. About how many knives did you use them on ?

If you are doing expensive knives be sure to tape the knife well. Mysterious scratches show up on the blade face many times no matter how careful I am. Pretty much impossible to remove by hand.

I suspect that your knife is not mounted perfectly normal (ie. orthogonal) to the plane that your stones are being measured from via the digital angle gauge. It should not matter much though if you truly have a full burr on both sides. However, if you are looking for “perfection” doing 3-5x+ more strokes on the correct side will raise a bigger…[Read more]

I am a proponent of not backing off the angle at all when I strop. My goal is to strop the whole bevel shoulder to apex and if I back off then I am relying on the correct pressure to fully engage the bevel and to me that’s nearly impossible. So I use the same angles and concentrate on the gentlest pressure needed to fully engage the bevel. I…[Read more]

Sounds like you have a solid approach and know what you are doing. IMO, rogue scratches are very difficult, time consuming and quite possibly impossible to avoid unless you take many hours in a super clean total environment. Our diamond stones et al. are not at the lapping and polishing quality level. I stopped driving myself nuts with “where did…[Read more]

Keep in mind that cheap knives have cheap steel and an 18 dps edge will not last long. It will be much sharper though before you add a 20 dps micro bevel. Its always a trade off unfortunately.

Very nice, how long did it take and what progression ?

TC, I took your advice and about the glass although I could not find a good piece so I use my white ceramic Messermeister rod (supposedly around 1200 grit but I feel that ceramics don’t follow the scratch grit thing well at all). Anyway, I did another composite below showing 2 rows of Baseline scratch patterns on a cheap knife (800 thru 3000),…[Read more]

Pic below, I still had interference issues trying to put a 17 DPS edge on the knife. I could have done some grinding on the high rise but I didn’t have the equipment with me. Had to go to the standard clamp and do 3 sections with knife moves which requires blending which is a major PIA. The edge came out mirrored but with a keen eye you can see…[Read more]