JimR

Simon it’s because of questions like yours that I have a love / hate relationship with the rabbit holes this forum sends me on. Like you – I have a WE130 (actually it’s a WE120 upgraded to the 130 vise) and when I looked into your observation I found the same thing. Actually though what I found was that while the LAA amplified the play, it wasn’t…[Read more]

On the Wusthof FAQ page (https://www.wusthof.com/pages/faqs) they say the following:

“WÜSTHOF knives can be honed and sharpened using a hand-held sharpener, an electric sharpener, a sharpening or honing steel, or
a whetstone. We recommend using the same brand sharpener as your knife collection, to ensure that the material used is the correct…[Read more]

You have succinctly described my problems sharpening an M390 knife. I suspect most of my problems arose from carbide tear out, perhaps the result of the machining method diamond stones use. Diamond stones are anchored in a hard matrix and they have to cut hard carbides also anchored in the hard matrix of the knife steel. As hard steels also may…[Read more]

I think Marc is getting warm with model number. I found some evidence that suggests Puma has used the letter code “RC” and a number where the number is a year (when the knife was manufactured). So 15/RC or RC 15 might be found on a knife made in 2015. I don’t believe it suggests a Rockwell hardness as I don’t think the C scale goes as soft as 15.…[Read more]

I recently worked on two knives with a curved edge and was most pleased with the bevel I got when I clamped the knife (as Marc suggested) “roughly centered to the curved edge fore and aft so the imagined line is horizontal roughly parallel to the vise’s flat tips”.

One of those two knives had a factory edge bevel exactly as you described – I w…[Read more]

This has been a most valuable insight offered by tcmeyer on two points – one is the problem caused by an unbroken in stone. Two knives I sort of really care about had some unique deep scratches that I ultimately traced to an unbroken in 1500/2200 diamond stone that I had added to my collection of stones without really breaking it in well enough.…[Read more]

Welcome Chefy from one relative newby (several weeks on Wicked Edge but 30+ years with a Lansky). Get some stone stops (forum members here or what I did was buy a couple of shaft collars on Amazon) because you will sooner or later run a stone off the edge and down the side of the blade without them. It leaves some very ugly scratches that you…[Read more]

I think it’s an interesting concept and the diagram reminds me a little bit of the <span id=”productTitle” class=”a-size-large product-title-word-break”>Henckels Eversharp steak knives edge. Of course that’s a much larger pattern of peaks and valleys, it’s obviously formed with a shaped sharpening media, and only one side is sharpened with this…[Read more]

I do exactly the same thing as Mark does.

This link was very helpful – more so that the printed instructions in my opinion. Two things to keep in mind:

1) My cube was not giving an accurate angle indication until AFTER I re-calibrated it – so while it SHOULD be calibrated correctly – don’t count on it. I was seeing the protractor suggest that the vise was wrong when in fact it was an…[Read more]

You all got me curious enough to checks this out on my own WE device – originally a 120 but updated to a 130 with the addition of the kit and new vice. One thing I felt I could add was that I have a precision machinist’s square that I used to use to tram the vice in my milling machine (when I was lucky enough to have a basement) and I thought it…[Read more]

Marc thanks for pointing out about the hex on the new production. I got a 120 before I discovered this forum and was perplexed what it was for (in part because my 120 (subsequently upgraded to a 130) came assembled as shown in your picture – with the hex towards the spherical joint – and it didn’t make sense to me. That was before I did some…[Read more]