Chazz

Richard,  “airscapes” is correct.  If you flip back to the first post that began this thread, or look at this included photo, you’ll see the shape of my red angle cube. It has a hollow or concaved center and only contacts the surface at the ends nearer to the corners.

I too have bought from Best Sharpening Stone with a good experience.

My experience is Wicked Edge ships via Priority Mail. I receive my W.E. purchases quickly too.

Here’s a recent W.E. Forum thread where some forum members discussed USB Microscopes.  Please read it:

https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/usb-microscopes-question/

Richard the extra clamp at the bottom will probably overcome your issue.

You might try loosening up the adapter’s elastic strap.  If it’s fastened too tight, it’ll raise/lift the steel bar off contact with the stone at the bottom.  Just what you’re experiencing.  The strap is meant to be used as loose as it can be fastened, simply to keep the ad…[Read more]

I just rotate the USB cylindrical microscope in my fingers, 180º, so instead of the wire coming out of the bottom of the scope, now it comes out up at the top.  That will flop your image so the image is with the knife bevel up.  Just like the knife is clamped in the W.E. Vise.

Lay, arrow back to the previous page in this same thread.  Scroll down through the posts.  Ed K has posted on page “12”.  Click his screen name”NotSharpEnuff”.  This will redirect you to the “private messaging” function where you can compose an email for Ed K.  Send him you regular email address and mailing address and he’ll take care of you.

Anything that limits the sliding, that you can imagine.  It can be as simple as rubber bands!  I originally used faucet repair washers I had found at Home Depot on the plumbing aisle.  As long as it inhibits your motion when you feel it you’ll stop.  If it’s not a solid stop it’ll still cause you to stop you’re stroke.

Originally the upper sto…[Read more]

You are correct Tommie.

The lower stop keeps the stone from scratching below the shoulder of the knife bevel, and the sides of the knives

The upper stop keeps the bottom edge of the stone from sliding up above and off the knife edge.

If the stone is allowed to slide up the guide rods above and off the knife edge, on the way back down, in…[Read more]

Tommie, 20 degrees per side, (dps), is a good average bevel angle to start with.  I believe this is tcmeyer’s mainstay.   After beginning with this bevel angle you can monitor the edge durability, longevity and knife performance to guide you to tune the bevel angle more to your liking and expectations.

New knife science applied studies suggest th…[Read more]

The curved stones are for concave edges.  More of an issue is you’d need to use a Wicked Edge model that uses the standard vise.  Then using longer screws you may be able to clamp an axe head for sharpening.  The W.E. models with the Gen 3 vise would not open wide enough to clamp and sharpen an axe head unless it’s only less than 1/4″ thick.  Eve…[Read more]

Tommie we’re here to try to help you.

I have profiled knives that were made at the factory with only one beveled side.  Those were old inexpensive knives.  I also own knives that are also beveled on one side.  Those are high end, quality chef’s knives, made for a specific duty like boning.

If you’re in question about what your working with, po…[Read more]

Tommie, just to be clear, which ever model scope you settle on….they all take time and practice to learn to use them so it’s easy for you and you can understand what you’re looking at.  All the scopes have a focusing ring that is pretty much right where you’ll want to hold the scope.  Learning to hold and use the scope while holding it around t…[Read more]

The necessity for Mac compatibility may both limit and help determine your selections.  I’d shop Amazon.  I’m still using the very first and least expensive USB scope I ever purchased.                A Plugable model.  I’ve tried 5 or 6 others and keep going back to this one.

Thomas, for me the burr formation is the knives steel edge indicating I have done my job correctly and apexed the edge.  That is I have brought the bevel angle, as I set it, up and then off the knife edge.  When I have accomplished that on both sides of the knife properly, completely and thoroughly the results is the burr where the two bevel p…[Read more]

I just wan to help clarify with photos, Ed K’s post above:

The Gen 3 Pro does not utilize the locking “L” handles because the angle settings are controlled and locked by the central lever:

The WE120 and WE130 use “L” brackets sliding on the square to determine the sharpening angles.  There are the new mini “L” brackets Ed has in the top of his…[Read more]

Yes, That’s tcmeyer’s method, also.  Thanks

I’ve been sharpening four fish cleaning knives this guy has been using a “V” style pull through sharpener, with.  The sharpener destroyed the edges on these knives I have previously sharpened, well.  Here is some damage it had incurred.  You can see the horizontal scratches and the steel tear out, from the carbide pull through sharpener:

I st…[Read more]

I wanted to add these photos to illustrate what I wrote above.  This shows a knife edge of a clamped knife, (in the W.E.), that was sharpened with the W.E. 3000 grit Diamond Stones.

First is a photo of the Burr formed at the knife tip, when I first started with the 3000 grit diamond stone.  The subsequent alternating side edge leading strokes k…[Read more]

The W.E. lends the angle control ability to your stropping that you can’t get with hand stropping.  I don’t believe you’re rolling the edge stropping as lightly and as few times as you’re describing even with the plain leather hand strop with out the compound.  I’d look back at the early steps to be sure you are apexing the knife edge with each a…[Read more]

Welcome Tommie.