000Robert

Welcome to the forum, Timm. I have the WE130 with the Chisel & Scissors Attachments. They work great and I have some chisels and scissors that are nice and sharp. If you want to reprofile/sharpen chisels, I recommend getting the 50/80 stones. It can take a longgg time removing the steel with the 100 stones. But be careful because they can leave…[Read more]

I don’t store my stones in the case, but I checked my stones with the covers on them and they fit in the slots ok.

Sounds like something is wrong. I would contact WE about it.

The scissor attachment shouldn’t be loose in the vise. What vise are you using?

Wicked Edge now sells paperboard shims that have worked pretty good for me. I sometimes use pigskin also.

Welcome to the forum, Andy!

Here’s a photo of my WE 130 with the stainless steel setup installed.

I’m not sure about who is eligible to advertise their products for sale here so I can’t help with that. Those covers look really nice. The possible problem that I personally see with them is the thickness of them. With the thin stone covers that I have the stones are a little tight fitting into the stone slots in the foam of my case, but they do…[Read more]

Yeah, probably just a shaving that got caught in there. I’m glad that it didn’t hurt the vise threads.

I’m glad that you got the screw out. I wonder where that sliver came from? If it came from the clamp threads, you can probably get a new clamp.

@Steve

I just checked the WE120 under “Specs”, and it says that, “longer screws can be used to enable clamping of even thicker blades”. So, it seems to me that the screw should come out. I wonder if there’s a thread that got buggered up that is keeping the screw from wanting to come on out? I would ask someone from WE to be sure. Anyway, the…[Read more]

I would go to the hardware store and get a 1″ screw, that might work. But without that bottom screw you will have trouble getting the knife to clamp tight. I believe that you are supposed to snug up the top screw and then tighten the bottom screw.

Yep, that’s why I love this forum so I can learn from Clay, you and the other guys that have a lot of experience.

Yep, it’s tough sometimes. I’ve tried using tape, cloth, and leather and stuff. Some knives just don’t want to be clamped. For them I try to use my Tormek small knife holder. I’m not sure how well it would work for a large knife though.

Sometimes knives just need to be reprofiled. All 3 of the brand new M7 Bayonets that I bought had terribly profiled edge bevels. I had to reprofile all of them. But Clay has a video about finding the ‘Sweet Spot’ in the ‘Knowledge Base’. It is up at the top right of the screen.

@MarcH

Good catch about using painters tape to help put your blade back in the clamp at the same place, Marc. I forgot about that.

@Steve

You need to get an Advanced Alignment Guide. That will make it easier to put your knives back at the same position in the clamp.

I rarely sharpen a knife more than 1000 grit anymore. And that will push-cut printer paper. I would use some paper towel or printer paper to test the sharpness of the blade while it is still in the clamp. But…[Read more]

I tend to use a little more pressure on up/down strokes, and on chisels. I agree with using the longer guide rods and stone stops.

Probably every edge will look like it has tear-out if you magnify it enough. If I can’t detect it with my fingernail or see it with my lighted magna-visor, then I don’t worry about it.

I also use the entire surface of my stones as much as possible as you do. You also have to remember to use a light touch with the diamond stones. I still catch…[Read more]

Personally, I don’t use microbevels anymore – I really don’t see the point, though I could be wrong. I’ve never sharpened a Yanagiba, but I feel your pain. I had that problem reprofiling my chisels. I finally gave up and ordered some 50/80 stones. Man, did they save me a lot of time and wear & tear on my elbows and shoulders!

But they leave…[Read more]