000Robert

Sounds good. I would reprofile/sharpen a blade a few times and give it my best before I would give up on the blade.

The files are just steel just like blades are steel. The steel is tempered to have a particular hardness, whether blades, files, or whatever. But sometimes things go awry. Maybe he got some bad files? Anyway, opinion has nothing to do with it.

So far, the steel hardness from Buck, Kershaw, and CPK have checked correct with my files. Sure, they…[Read more]

I can’t speak about the files other people have, but mine work fine. Hopefully he didn’t get a fake set. There are better files that we can buy but I couldn’t afford to spend that much money. According to what the manufacturers say the hardness of their blades are, my files show to be true so far. Of course, I don’t own knives from every…[Read more]

I think it looks pretty nice myself.

Hmm. I wonder what the problem is? Mine work great.

The pump sprayer works fine for me. You just have to pump it hard and fast.

I hear that most manufacturers use dry belts. But the ruined heat treat should not be very deep. By the time you reprofile the edges or sharpen them a couple of times, you should be down to some good steel. I love my Tsubosan files because they remove the guesswork. I can see if the claimed steel hardness is close to accurate.

My old Buck 301 has…[Read more]

Thanks, Henry. Marc and TC are more experienced than I am. I just mentioned a couple of common problems that could be happening since you said that you were experienced at sharpening. If you know what the steel hardness should be, then you can test it to make sure that the heat treat at the edge has not been damaged. I test my blades on the edge…[Read more]

It’s also possible that you could be putting too much pressure on the diamond stones. Diamond stones only need light pressure. I only use enough pressure to keep the stones against the blade edge, and no more than that – just very light pressure.

Welcome to the forum, Henry. Nice photos!

I don’t like Spyderco knives so I don’t know much about them. And I haven’t sharpened anything with that steel yet. But I hear that most manufacturers use dry belts to profile/sharpen their knives with. That can build up heat and ruin the heat treat to the steel at the edge apex.

I would…[Read more]

I love my Tormek Small Knife Jig! It comes in very handy with dagger blades and other blades that are difficult to clamp up. I take my OTF apart when I sharpen it. I use a telephone workers knife that I use for my leather knife because it has a short, strong blade with a good rubbery handle that provides a good grip. The Tormek Jig comes in handy!

There will probably be someone coming along that would like a good deal.

Sounds like a good deal. And the stones aren’t even broken-in well yet! I love using my WE130!

Ok. I thought that he was talking about a new post. Thanks, Marc.

I can’t find Clay’s post and I didn’t get a notification. Where did you see it?

I agree with what Marc said. I have noticed that the biggest problem that I have had with my WE130 is sharpening tiny blades. On pocketknife blades like the wharncliffe blade on my Buck 301, I can clamp it closer to the spine at the nail-nick. On smaller blades like the tiny sheepsfoot, I use the Tormek SVM-00 small knife holder. I also use the…[Read more]

Welcome to the WE forum, Eric!

The Commercial Series is the most expensive if I remember right. And the extra stones that you said are 80/100, are really 50/80 stones. I hope that everything goes well for you guys!

Nice work!

It’s been a couple of months since I sharpened my leather knife. I polished it to 3000 grit. I’ve cut quite a bit of leather with it and it will still push cut printer receipts after a good stropping.