Mikedoh

I could be wrong, but was thinking his handles were titanium.

I don’t use lapping films, but if you’re referring to the diamond lapping films, no, paste is not used.

Thanks TC. I Did a google search rather than the forum search to get the info.

But now I see a wicked edge banner partially obscuring my post (I’m using an iPad). Hopefully, it’s not a problem for others.

Here’s a thread with some thoughts.

Tip Repair Done Right! Er…Wrong! No…Right! Um?

And one on preventing rounding.

How to Prevent Rounding the Tip of Your Blade When Sharpening

If you are able to clamp the serrated knife in the WE, you could try securing the triangular sharpmaker stones to the WE stones/paddles (rubber bands?) and adjust for angle using an angle cube. Just a note though, I’ve seen reports of some sharpmaker stones having a bow to them.

The diamond stones have no problem sharpening D2. As for the cost in Atlanta for sharpening, I don’t know. Are you wanting a mirror edge, or a nice, sharp functional edge? Mirror edges take a lot of time and therefore are expensive.

If sharpened at 17*, then strop at 16* to avoid rounding the edge with the kangaroo.

The angle markings on the bar are approximate. Designed around a certain sized knife in a certain position.

Also make sure your knife blade is not canted to one side.

Here’s a link to a thread you may find useful.

Down & dirty LAA Mod

Clay, I’m guessing you’ve watched some of Cliff’s sharpening videos. It would be interesting to see the angle read outs as he sharpens/thins/ apexes etc. He most certainly can get a knife sharp.

Some guesses as I don’t go for mirror. Stones aren’t broken in and some proud diamonds did it. Contamination from previous stone debris. Not enough strokes with next finer stone when starting the progression. That’s where  magnifified viewing comes into play when going to finer grits.

A lot of the guys change direction of strokes (heal to tip, t…[Read more]

Johnny, FWIW, the degree marks on the bar are only approximations and are ~ accurate for only one size of blade. An angle cube is needed for more precise measurements.

I moisten the diamond plate, apply bar keepers friend, scrub with a finger nail brush, rinse, stand upright to dry.

Nice job.

FWIW, here’s tuffy’s YouTube channel.

https://m.youtube.com/user/gravediggermax

I think Tom’s nailed it.

I would think taping the blade would help. Also being careful when wiping the blade and making sure the stones are flat against the blade and not rotated when moving them on/off of the blade during sharpening.

When I’m concerned with cosmetics, I tape the blade. I will also tape over pivot areas in general to keep debris out.

Clay, thank you for leaving condolences on behalf of yourself and the forum, on Mark’s memorial page. In writing this, I’m very conscious of my use of commas.

Mark, yeah . . .knew him only through the forum. . . Knowledgeable, kind, helpful, willing, passionate about knives . . . Curious about commas. The whole being greater than the sum of the…[Read more]

Currently, I like micro bevels. I use the WE to get my knives into “shape”, then put it away (don’t have a dedicated spot to keep it set up) and use the spyderco sharp maker for touch ups. Other than my kitchen knives, my pocket knives have it pretty easy so this works well for me.