Mikedoh

Some things to consider.

Don’t sweep the stone off the blade at the tip, you’ll round it.

Don’t work one side exclusively until you get a burr. You can work each side independently to a point, but doing one side exclusively until a burr is produced will result in uneven bevels.

Use your angle cube to check the settings, the degree marks on th…[Read more]

“Blade” show maybe?

I use a VERY light scrubbing with a nail brush and bar keepers friend and water. No soaking. Just rinse and stand on end to dry. The “stones”are adhered to the handles with a strong double sided sticky “tape” . 2¢

Ive always looked at digital/analog as particle/wave duality.

And there is the school of thought that many factory edges are weak/damaged from power sharpening (heat treat near apex destroyed from insufficient cooling). . . And this weakened metal must be removed by: 1) cutting into a stone to remove the fatigued steel, or 2) multiple subsequent sharpening to remove the fatigued…[Read more]

I found this

“When using a sharpening stone run the blade over the stone at a 22.5 degree angle while applying moderate pressure. The angle needs to stay constant as you repeat this process about 10 times. Then turn the blade over and repeat. Next flip the stone over and use the fine grit side to repeat the process. Finally, finish by using s…[Read more]

If you follow the link, in the description it says “and a Riser Block which extend the angle range to 13-35 degrees per side.”

The increased height of the vice/knife allows the extended angle range.

Other than that, I’m at best unsure of what you’re asking.

Am guessing you are referring to the “mounting block” upgrade?

This description may answer your question.  A greater selection of sharpening angles.

Precision Sharpener – WE120

Here is a 2 page thread with some info on disassembly. It talks mainly about de-assisting, but you can get an idea if it is something you want to try.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/removing-the-axis-assist-on-an-emissary.1034314/

You may have issues depending on how accute an angle you like/want to sharpen at. There is a low angle adapter, but I don’t think it works with the newest vise.

You’re going to need to flip the knife over to show the same side as in the first picture.

Just one of those days . . .

I could be wrong, but was thinking his handles were titanium.

I don’t use lapping films, but if you’re referring to the diamond lapping films, no, paste is not used.

Thanks TC. I Did a google search rather than the forum search to get the info.

But now I see a wicked edge banner partially obscuring my post (I’m using an iPad). Hopefully, it’s not a problem for others.

Here’s a thread with some thoughts.

Tip Repair Done Right! Er…Wrong! No…Right! Um?

And one on preventing rounding.

How to Prevent Rounding the Tip of Your Blade When Sharpening

If you are able to clamp the serrated knife in the WE, you could try securing the triangular sharpmaker stones to the WE stones/paddles (rubber bands?) and adjust for angle using an angle cube. Just a note though, I’ve seen reports of some sharpmaker stones having a bow to them.

The diamond stones have no problem sharpening D2. As for the cost in Atlanta for sharpening, I don’t know. Are you wanting a mirror edge, or a nice, sharp functional edge? Mirror edges take a lot of time and therefore are expensive.

If sharpened at 17*, then strop at 16* to avoid rounding the edge with the kangaroo.

The angle markings on the bar are approximate. Designed around a certain sized knife in a certain position.

Also make sure your knife blade is not canted to one side.

Here’s a link to a thread you may find useful.

Down & dirty LAA Mod