Marc H

I use the DLF to polish out fine scratches to accomplish a mirror finish.  The ceramics (I seldom use) are a very fine grit sharpening stone.  Strops are my final medium I use as the very last step of every sharpening progression no matter which mediums I may have employed.

The strops finely polishes the bevels for the appearance and the apex f…[Read more]

I also use the one same password for everything.

There’s a couple schools of thought, here.  Some users set the angle with their cube only with the first stone.  Then they just swap stones and follow their sharpening progression till done.  For the utility sharpeners this is efficient and works quite well.  When the goal is to apply a mirror reflective bevel,  I believe more precision helps acco…[Read more]

Sent you a PM

A LAA is desighed like the W.E. Standard Vise.  One side is fixed and centered to the vise, (the side that is clamped in the vise jaws).  The other floats as it is connected to the fixed side by the locking screws.  It’s the natures of the design.

The screw tolerance is tight so the vise is pretty much self aligning as it’s locked in place. The two screws that secure the vise front the underneath are flat head screws that fit precisely in they’re counter sink holes to position it correctly.

You are correct.  The blue half-circle like shaped base plate needs to be loosened and removed.  That allows access to the vise attachment screws that pass up through the blue plate.  The angle adjuster lever should be rotated all-the-way to the right, (to the widest angle setting). Then the four hex socket flat head screws, (at the corners), th…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum.

Yes you definitely will be able to sharpen knives to a mirror polished edge once your stones are well broken in and you have learned how to use your PP1 correctly and properly.  There is a learning curve.  It does take time, practice and experience with the proper effort, technique and an attention to detail to…[Read more]

I understand there have been a design upgrade made by W.E.  I haven’t seen it personally yet.

There is a proven, effective, aftermarket micro-adjuster  setup  made and available for purchase from forum member “Notsharpenuff “.

I have these micro-adjuster adapters all all four of Wicked Edge setups.  They’re a tool free angle adjuster knob wit…[Read more]

Thank you for producing and posting this video.

For the new W.E. users, Tom did zero his angle cube to start, to the outer right vertical side of his Standard Vise.  This is in order to measure the angle of the knife he has finger pinched in the vise jaws.

Don’t forget to zero your cube again, to the horizontal surface of your W.E. base, before…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum and our sharpening community, Jacob Barlow.

While breaking in your new diamond stone set they will shed diamonds.  I believe what your experiencing leading to the noise and rough feel in the clamping mechanism is more due to these lost diamonds then due to steel dust.  But both, steel and diamonds, will c…[Read more]

I just finished and mailed this off to forum member Kenny Fey.  It’s a 20 post “Table Top Rack-It”.  This is the original design I started this hobby with. This “Rack-It” is $40 + postage.

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum and sharpening Community, Jason.

Keith, another tip I forgot to say:

Don’t try to strop the entire knife edge in one continuous stroke.  Even for a short bladed folding knife.  Break the knife edge length up into portions and stroke a shorter portion at a time.  Do overlapping strop strokes, blending one over the other short strop stroke.

Do the tip portion separately.  Ofte…[Read more]

To help avoid gouging/slashing strops, start your up and off motion, first, before you strop making contact between the strop leather with the knife steel.  Don’t stop the strop motion when in contact with the knife.  Follow through.  With your stroke motion, up, and off, lift the strop away from contact with the knife.

Don’t ever employ upper st…[Read more]

I use Safety Shields always.  I haven’t had any issues with the shields contacting the knife inhibiting my ability to sharpen the knife at the heel, right up against the handle or bolster.  If you choose to go the route to remove the plastic from the W.E. stones, you can still mount and use safety shields without any issue.

If this pasta knife were properly sharpened @ 20dps with a stone progression through 1000 grit. Then stropped to smooth the bevel shoulder and the edge.  It’ll  certainly ribbon newspaper.  That’s sharp enough to cut your pasta clean with the knife action you describe.

Greg Roddy, welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum.

I have never seen or sharpened a pasta knife.  My guess for it, based on a bit of sharpening experience and some cooking experience is, it’s not intended to be a very sharp knife.  It’s made to press down through cut and not for slicing.  I’m guessing a straight flat level obtuse angle knife edge is…[Read more]

Here’s a “Step Tiered Rack-It” with latching accessory box.  I just completed this for forum member Roblin Thegoblin.  This modular Rack-It accommodates 30 stones/15 stone pairs.  It can either sit on the table top or hang on the wall from integral hanger brackets, to get it up and out of the way.  The removable storage box holds all of the nec…[Read more]

000Robert, when I finding the “sweet spot”, (i.e., the best or most efficient position to clamp the knife for sharpening), using a sharpie, I use a very fine stone or often even lapping films, with a very wide or obtuse stone angle setting.  All I’m trying to do is remove the sharpie ink while adjusting the clamping position without removing any…[Read more]