Baxsin

The $23 spool of testing media is supposed to be good for 325 tests. That’s about 7 cents per each test!  I test a kitchen knife, at least, at the tip, the middle and the heel, before sharpening and again after sharpened so with 6 tests per each knife, that’s around 54 knives tested per spool.  The cost is  less then $0.50 per knife.   54 knive…[Read more]

Tommie, the best most precise model can measure to 1 gram differences in the applied force needed to sever the testing filament.  It is also about twice the price of the least precise tester that only has 25 gram precision.  When you consider a BESS sharpness score of 200 grams or less indicates a very sharp knife edge it’s debateable if 1 gram o…[Read more]

I have used the “Three Finger Sharpness Test”.  With a very sharp knife edge you can tell when you just ever so gently place your three fingers against the knife edge.  It’s really amazing how the brain can sense the danger and you’ll inherently know not to even move or slide your fingers.  You can really get a good sense for “very sharp” VS “j…[Read more]

Bill K, the WE100 with it’s Standard Vise will accommodate even the thickest knives.  It may require with very thick implements that you use longer clamping and tightening screws to allow the vise to spread wide enough and still clamp tight.  This is a clamping characteristic the updated WE130 with the Gen 3 Vise cannot match.

Both the old s…[Read more]

Danny, in an attempt to help you with the terminology or nomenclature for what I believe you are describing that you intend to do:

To apply a wider angled bevel to the very edge or apex of a knife sharpened already with a more acute angle profile, is called a micro-bevel. A micro-bevel is generally applied with a few very light pressure strokes…[Read more]

Also be careful of your choice of cleaning solutions you use in the ultrasonic.  Some products may loosen the stones by affecting the adhesive that secures the stones. “Simple Green” is one of these products you should never use.

-Terry there is a minimum angle where the stones will collide with the vise for every knife.  The size and height of the knife above the vise jaw line effects this.  Taller and larger knives are less of an issue then smaller shorter knives.  The knife does not need to be clamped in the vise so it rests on the positioning key posts.  That is not…[Read more]

There is a downloadable instruction manual I found by Google searching DXL360S.  I’m pretty sure it’s exactly what you have, but maybe check it out.  I remember I searched for a YouTube video once before and there wasn’t one on calibrating it.

Just so we’re clear, I use really leather chamois, not a synthetic.  I find it stays put where I use it and compresses well and holds tightly without any shifting  or sliding.

I too found when using layers of blue painter’s tape that the strong compression of the gen 3 vise did force the layers of tape to slide across one another and shift how t…[Read more]

Not intending to shut you down.  Just trying to help you get the most out of what this forum can offer.

-Terry, we’re attempting to answer all of your questions in this one thread from the very start, greeting a newcomer, into and through some direct sharpening technique questions, throughout the entire sharpening process.  I don’t see any reason not to help you out.  After-all it is your thread you started.  The only problem I see is there is so ma…[Read more]

FYI, by convention on this forum we generally speak of bevel angles per side, (dps for degree per side), as opposed to the sum of the sides or inclusively, (incl).  To avoid confusion it’ll help to label or define the angle’s as you mean them.

I would keep working on your technique to insure you are apexing the knife edge on both sides, and…[Read more]

This introduces another point of discussion for me:

The angles the cube reads allows you to set the guide rod angles the same, no matter how thick the stones are.  An angle = an angle.

It is correct, a marker can show you when your angle is off by it’s removal from only a portion of the bevel.  If the angle is then double checked and verified a…[Read more]

The sharpie can be used anytime, or again and again, if you choose to use that method to determine you are working the entire knife edge and bevels, as indicated by the complete removal of the sharpie ink.  What method you use and how you use the method is determined by what you’re comfortable using.

I find I can get and see same results…[Read more]

Here’s Forum member “Danny’s” new table top “Rack-It”.  This model has a capacity for 48 stones, (24 stone pairs), in a 3 drawer base.  The removable drawers are totally functional and practical.  They are large, wide and deep enough to actually hold many of your W.E. sharpening accessories.

The “Rack-It” is in the mail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEnSR9l-Kic

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vODnFnKUV8I

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the-merit-of-a-super-eraser.1491800/

That’s a great idea!  Looks very functional.  Is it sturdy and steady enough to zero your cube and get consistent readings?

Danny, you might want to tackle the job your self.  You can use one of these super erasers available from many sources.  I’d clean up that old beauty.  It’s got to have some sentimental value.  I’d be afraid to return it for repair.  They may just replace it instead under it’s lifetime warranty.  Who’s to know that the new materials and quali…[Read more]

I know this brand but it appears to be the most expensive.  I really believe all the red DXL360s are the same in the $70 range.

-Terry, some of us begin with the scrubbing strokes, up-down-up-down as we work back and forth along the entire knife edge, on both sides of the knife, in a manner to keep the work effort balanced from side to side.  This scrubbing stroke is a good method to remove steel, quickly, from the shoulder to the knife edge, the apex, and to establish…[Read more]