Baxsin

Michael, I use old phone books as a source for testing paper.  They keep dropping them off and I haven’t used a phone book to look up a phone number in many many years.  I don’t think it so much which paper you use as how it feels as the knife slices through the paper, and how it sounds.  It’s only a qualitative test but it gives a basis for co…[Read more]

Christ, I have seen this issue related on the forum in the past.  First thing I will say to relieve any doubts you may have.  If the guide rod angles measure the same with the properly zeroed, then properly used digital angle cube, then the bevel angles are set the same to allow the bevel to be sharpened to the same angle, on both sides of the k…[Read more]

That’s a keen observation Richard.  The extra height above the jaw line would certainly require very long guide rods and a much longer square bar then the standard one pictured here.  Pythagoras shows himself here, again.  That’s not to say the concept is wrong.  Just, it’ll require all the components to put it to practical use.

Be careful.  The steel may not be like a knife.  It may be plated not solid.  There’s no telling what it’s made of.  Possibly it’s ornamental and not the real thing.

I can’t really get an idea of the daggers dimensions from the photos, other then it’s long.  The other aspect I’d consider is this a valuable collectors item that may go down in value if it’s alter by sharpening.  Some things have their value in an untouched, unused, unpolished and unaltered original state.  With the original patina.

The ot…[Read more]

The numbers are intended to be just an indicator, not an actual or true reference to be used to set your bevel angles.    These numbers do coordinate with a reference size knife that is 5/8″ above the vise jaws, center.  Use the inscribed numbers only to give you a reference for the direction to move your angle brackets , up or down as you in…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. Forum “-Terry”.

Time and time again new users ask this same question and report these same results and sharpening experiences.  It’s a combination of new, unbroken-in stones and more so, your inexperience and lack of a W.E. sharpening technique.  There is definitely a break-in period for the stones.  When the stones have br…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. Forum Punxsyjumper.

These are the 1/4 inch jaws offered by W.E. to clamp thicker knives.  This may be the accessory you need.

I’d be interested in seeing that conversion kit.

That is correct.

I prefer to use high power while I view the bevel from the side.  Other Forum members prefer to look down from the top at the apex of the edge.  Try different methods and the different scope powers to see what you prefer to work with.  Be aware on most of these USB microscopes the low power which is always a wider view is when the focusing ring is…[Read more]

Richard, not intending to correct you but to help you and other  W.E. sharpeners to understand your experiences correctly.  You are not opening up the angle due to the knife edges increased height above the jaw line.  You are increasing the distance the rod end is positioned away from the knife’s center-line in order to achieve the same angle se…[Read more]

Michael,  I don’t think it takes a lot of stropping compound to be effective.  There are YouTube videos and videos in the W.E. Knowledge Base you can view. The strops will improve as the compound rubs in and spreads across the surface.  That being said, I don’t think you can really use too much compound either.  If you apply an abundance of com…[Read more]

The longer rods are for taller and longer knives.  I’d rather use a rod that is slightly longer then necessary then find out during the stone progression I need to switch to a longer rod. The long rods are also a little more gangly to get use to.  I still sometimes bump the rod ends when knife sharpening with very long guide rods, when using a…[Read more]

Richard,  “airscapes” is correct.  If you flip back to the first post that began this thread, or look at this included photo, you’ll see the shape of my red angle cube. It has a hollow or concaved center and only contacts the surface at the ends nearer to the corners.

I too have bought from Best Sharpening Stone with a good experience.

My experience is Wicked Edge ships via Priority Mail. I receive my W.E. purchases quickly too.

Here’s a recent W.E. Forum thread where some forum members discussed USB Microscopes.  Please read it:

https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/usb-microscopes-question/

Richard the extra clamp at the bottom will probably overcome your issue.

You might try loosening up the adapter’s elastic strap.  If it’s fastened too tight, it’ll raise/lift the steel bar off contact with the stone at the bottom.  Just what you’re experiencing.  The strap is meant to be used as loose as it can be fastened, simply to keep the ad…[Read more]

I just rotate the USB cylindrical microscope in my fingers, 180º, so instead of the wire coming out of the bottom of the scope, now it comes out up at the top.  That will flop your image so the image is with the knife bevel up.  Just like the knife is clamped in the W.E. Vise.

Lay, arrow back to the previous page in this same thread.  Scroll down through the posts.  Ed K has posted on page “12”.  Click his screen name”NotSharpEnuff”.  This will redirect you to the “private messaging” function where you can compose an email for Ed K.  Send him you regular email address and mailing address and he’ll take care of you.