sksharp

This forum seems to be having some technical difficulties that may be limiting access to the forum menu and the Knowledge Base.

Here is a link to custom accessories like the strop covers:

https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/custom-accessories-list-made-by-forum-members/

Everything works as designed and described.

I prefer not to apply a second compound grit on old strop leather.  You could never be sure with unexpected results whether that was due to bad technique or contaminated old leather.  It’s easy enough to replace the leather strips.  You can adhere the new leather with a hot glue gun or compound cement.

I had a set of Balsa Strops, early on.  The…[Read more]

jrk, happy holidays to you too, and welcome back to the forum.

The latest version Gen 3 Vise now has a tension adjuster in the base facing towards the rear.  You didn’t mention if your vise included that feature.  That replacement vise is available if you desire to upgrade.  It does improve clamping tension when needed.

There are now 1500, 22…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. forum Kenneth.

It takes a good 10 knives worth of sharpening for your W.E. sharpening stones just to break in and begin to yield good consistent results.  Coincidentally, that’s about the same amount of time and practice it takes most new users to figure it out and get the hang of sharpening with their W.E. setups.

I don’t…[Read more]

Repeatability and consistency is more important then absolute accuracy.  Realize the angles we’re working with are relative angles.  That is we’re setting a bevel to an angle relative to the position of the WE130 and the knife’s position in the vise jaws.  We’re using a properly zeroed angle cube to make these settings.

As long as the knife’s po…[Read more]

Rodger, welcome to the W.E. Forum.

The W.E. micro-angle adjusters have recently, (in the past few months), been upgraded to include the hex thumb wheel on the outside.  This serves as a jam nut to lock the adjusters positioning.  It can be either finger tightened or tightened with an appropriate wrench.

The thumb screw that positions the mini “…[Read more]

Adam, welcome to the Wicked Edge forum.

I have not personally sharpened this knife.  From looking at the photos of that knife posted earlier in this thread, it appears you’re pretty limited to how you can clamp that blade.  I’d attempt to clamp it on the narrowing tapered curving parallel flat surfaces on both sides of the knife just below the s…[Read more]

IXALU, Encantado de verte de nuevo.

Parece que usar velcro para sujetar las piedras y luego cambiarlas es un método ingenioso cuando tienes acceso limitado a las piedras individuales.

La mayoría de nosotros trabajamos con cubos de ángulos digitales para medir y ajustar nuestros ángulos de piedra con mucha precisión. Mi preocupación sería que el…[Read more]

It reminds me of the knives I’ve seen used by migrating farmers that follow the seasons relocating with the next vegetable crops they’ll be picking.  I’ve seen videos as those pickers chop the vegetables free, through their stalks, followed with a few more chopping cuts, while hand held, to manicure the cut veggies, like lettuce, celery and…[Read more]

Phillip, welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum.

It sounds as though you’re doing quite well with your sharpening.  Good deal!!!!

Not to burst your baloon…IMO, the HHT is a very subjective sharpness test.  It’s very dependent on the tester’s hair they used.  Arm hair, head hair, leg hair?  Everyone’s hair differs some in softness, thickness or coa…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Mark.

This is from a reply I posted to another new user’s recently asked similar question:

First, it can take about 10 knives sharpened with each new sharpening stone grit before they’re broken in and they begin to yield their best results.  The finer grit stones will break in sooner with less use then the co…[Read more]

Just remember the W.E. is simply a handtool.  It’s well engineered and precisly machined.  It’s just a stable and sturdy vise, with adjustable angle jig attachments.  It’s up to us, to learn how to operate this handtool to it’s fullest capabilities.  It’s 100% hand-powered, fine tuned and controlled by the users.  The way we choose to use it, …[Read more]

Yes, the slightly oversized paddle holes are perfectly normal.  This is why I stress the importance of finger hold position and applied pressure.  These are within your control. Use them to maintain proper consistent stone-edge contact.  Through repeated trial and error or experimentation with position and pressure, along with frequent visual in…[Read more]

I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “allow the slight play in the hole the guide rod goes in”?  Everything that’s intended to be tight should be used tight.  We don’t want to allow any play where it really shouldn’t be.  We want to hold and use our stones in a manner that’s keeping them stable and positioned as they slide up and down the gu…[Read more]

To add one more thing.  The guide rods only need to be hand tightened into the ball end sockets.  If they become a little loose, maybe backing out a thread or so while you’re sharpening, it won’t effect the angle settings any.  I usually just check the rods regularly as I change grits by spinning the rod to check and tighten them if needed.  If…[Read more]

I want to make this point clear…we’re working with relative angles.  The bevel angles we apply to our knife edges are relative to the zeroed out cube on the W.E. base.  So keeping everything the same, consistent, doing it exactly the same, time and time again, is what’s important.  Applying the same relative angle based off the reading on yo…[Read more]

The stone on the arm is hard to tell, for me.  In your video the way you have the rod arm clamped, the rod arm appears to be moving along with the stone moving.  I can’t distinguish one movement from the other.  Maybe the camera is moving and contributing to the appeared motion, also.

I checked a stone on a guide rod today.  While holding the rod…[Read more]

The cubes I have used time out also and auto turn off. They still keep the “zeroing” in the memory.  As long as you don’t zero the cube again it’ll continue to hold in it’s memory and continue to work with the last zero position.  Check your manual for that cube.  It should hold it’s zero when off.  If not, I’d look to use one that does.

My W.E…[Read more]

The Dxl360S works well for me.  I don’t know whether it’s better then your TB2.  It does have better specs then all the other cubes I’ve used before it.  It’s also is multiaxis.

I check angles and microadjust with every grit…just my preference.

I suggest for accuracy you always position your angle cube on the stones the same, everytime you us…[Read more]

You posted the video while I was posting.  That ball isn’t right. It should be tight and only rotate.  Are both balls bad?  W.E. will replace that with a phone call.

The paddles should have no slop on the guide rods.  They should make a wooshing-like sound while sharpening a knife as the stone slides up and down.