Mikedoh

Appreciate your taking time to post your findings. Thank you.

For cleaning stones, I use bar keepers friend, and scrub brush.

Fwiw, I use a sponge, saturated with soapy water, and stick a new paper towel on top with every grit change.

Thanks. Nice experiment. Any pictures of the edge after just the filing?

Here’s a place that popped up when doing a search for 5/16 ss square bar stock.

midweststeelsupply.com

choose your length.

Doesn’t look like taking it apart will help. The plastic of the WE stone handles will still hit the blade near the finger choil.

Supposed to reduce sticking of food to the blade. Don’t have any, so can’t say how well it works.

Check the upper right hand corner of this page. Next to your name is a circle. Click on it.

PM him. Click on his name and send a personal message.

There’s a school of thought that the edge will have damaged/fatigued metal if overheated during sharpening eg factory belt sanding. Until it is removed, there will be continuing problems. Flattening the edge before sharpening helps to remove the bad metal.

I’ve done a couple of tantos. Treated the straight portion and the tanto  portion as two different blades. Neither had serrations.

Also, there is no attachment in your post.

That’s curious re lacquer thinner being your preference. Never felt that isopropyl wasn’t efficient for marker removal.

In my opinion, use a very fine grit. You’re only removing marker to see where you are hitting the bevel. I typically use my ceramics. My finest diamond is 1000. No need to introduce a deep groove when trying to find the sweet spot.

Richard is likely referring to a pair of “pliers “ made by the company you found on line. Maybe these, to help get a grip on the screws. Other members came up with modifications for tightening.

424 4.5″ Straight Jaw Tongue & Groove Pliers

If you’re happy with the edge you put on free hand, use the sharpy and see how you like that angle off of the WE.

Either way, I think using a sharpy lets you see more clearly where you’re removing metal. It won’t hurt to use it and doesn’t take any time

This may help.

Easiest way to clamp FFG blades

My thought on edge roll to the left is cutting technique. I have no doubt that Wusthof steel is softer than Japanese knives tend to be. I’m thinking that after cutting through whatever foodstuffs, the blade is then torqued/pushed to the right to separate the cut pieces from the uncut. The knife edge is either “embedded “ in the cutting “boar…[Read more]

I did a crude mock up with rare earth magnets-that fit in the holes in the blank paddle I bought, and a thin strip of stainless steel glued to an edge pro stone platen. Seemed to hold well enough. Didn’t use it much. Have some ep choseras I was planning on using.

I thought about it being  diamond paste coming off, but figured it would be fairly obvious. Emulsions, I have zero experience with.

First guess is you used downward strokes (aka edge leading) and sliced the leather.

Second guess is you sliced across the leather when stopping at the tip of the knife.