Chazz

Last, I’d like to add to clarify, the placement and secureness of the vice on the blue base and how this blue base is oriented, aligned and attached to the black base portion of the Gen 3 Pro only relates to the knive’s orientation, (forward, backward, side to side and rotated off line), relative to the rod angle arms.  That is whether the knife…[Read more]

Hey Expidia, first thing I’d do is verify my vice is mounted straight and “square” and “centered” on the base, front and back, left and right, with no rotation.  If is off any I’d correct this first and recheck your issue.

The angle adjustment is a separate function below the vice’s base plate where it is mounted and secured.  The single central…[Read more]

Thanks, that clears up a lot.  The facets, if you will, on the blade make for some difficulty to find a, proper placed, flat spot, to clamp the tanto while maintaining the “sweet spot” positioning.  With a blade edge profile as flat as it is I’d sacrifice “the sweet spot” position for a stable, repeatable, clamping position.  I’ve only had the op…[Read more]

William, I’m not understanding this part, the “recent sharpening revealed a 3 deg difference (24-21)”.  Where is the angle difference?  Is it a side to side bevel angle difference, left side VS right side or is it the flat blade portion and tip portion bevels differ by 3 degree bevel angles.  Are you clamping the knife in precisely the same po…[Read more]

William would you care to share with the Forum what’s going on with that knife that “isn’t quite right”?  It’s helpful to us all to understand sharpening difficulties, especially for new users like Bob.  It lets us learn, along with you, while you’re working it out.
I do still offer MarcH’s Rack-its for your Wicked Edge Stones at this link f…[Read more]

Barry, I did a Google search on “curved chinese cleavers” to get an idea of how much of a curve your looking for.  It isn’t very much. Looks similar to the curve used with many santoku’s.

Here’s the link,  I posted it to the Forum when I came across it a few weeks ago.

Thanks

Jabas2000, two questions:

1. Was the knife sharp?
2. Did the apparent scratches laid down by the 0.5 and 0.1 micron DLF increase in appearance as you continued to stroke with them? (i.e., get worse)?

BTW: here is a link to a similar subject matter Wicked Edge Post I started some time back.

Thanks for the suggestion JJ,  I too like to improvise.  I have found on several occasions while trying to “reinvent the wheel”, the amoung of effort, the expense and the results prove it would have been easier and better to just invest in the Wicked Edge product.  In your example you’re really attempting to make essentially the same stone they of…[Read more]

This is from the post, earlier. Maybe you overlooked it because I included too many links:

William if I follow you, you have finished with the strops but you’d like to go back to the DLF progression then strop again after that?  This may help bring up your polish.  I can’t see it doing any harm if your clamping position and angles are kept the same as before.

I had a similar problem when first getting started with Wicked Edge.  I en…[Read more]

William,  here’s a link to a post I contributed with some general theory related to grit progression with different medium.  And another post on related subject mater.

And another link here on how the different medium fit together in my experience.

Here’s another post I started some time back on stropping with a lot of good information and re…[Read more]

How old is your WE130 James?  When did you get it?  When you release the cam lever by rotating it to the left do the jaws spring open and stay open?

BTW, I bought the Super 77 from Home Depot

Dave, I simply pried my old leather loose after slipping a thin bladed screw driver between the plastic platen and the leather.  Then it took just some scratching and scraping to remove the left over glue to get a smooth flat gluing surface.

I have good success using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive.   I tape off all around the edge of the platen so th…[Read more]

Mike, we usually speak on this Forum in terms of the individual degrees per side, (dps).  If we are adding the individual side angles together we usually denote this by inclusive angle.

When stropping we lower the angle by 1-1/2º to 2º per side so that the pressure applied by the strop, in it’s up and off the edge direction, is more directed or…[Read more]

Welcome back, Eric.  I hate to leave your post unresponded to.  I personally have no experience with this particular steel CPM 110SV.  I have sharpened  several very hard stainless steels.  I like to call them Super Stainless Steels.  After a little research I found your 110SV to be 63 on the Rockwell hardness scale which is a fairly hard steel…[Read more]

Yes, essentially.    I alternate the scrubbing, up-down-up-down, stroke on one knife side, with the same scrubbing, up-down-up-down, stroke to the other knife side, in order to keep the grind work more balanced, from knife side to side.  I do not work exclusively, one side, till I have a burr across the entire knife’s edge length, then work the…[Read more]

When re-clamping for your touch-up, apply marker to the bevel so you can see that you’re removing steel from right at the bevel.  The marker should help you make any fine clamp placement adjustments.

You can rework the tip then blend the tip with the rest of knife edge as you progress up the grits.  When done you should not have any evidence t…[Read more]