Chazz

William, your stones will improve with use resulting in better outcomes.  You can not over-do an edge.  If in doubt whether you have done enough to achieve good results, always err on the side of more.

Your burr should not be hard to discern…it should be very evident.  If your having doubts whether you have indeed created a burr indicating yo…[Read more]

First thing…only strop a well cleaned knife edge.

To apply the Diamond Spray Emulsion, I shake the emulsions sprays very very well before using.  You can spritz the dry leather with alcohol before applying the emulsion spray.  It seems to help spread the emulsion across the leather.  The so called Diamond Spray emulsions, for me, comes out li…[Read more]

Karl, I believe I have only heard of one other method to create the convex edge, this doesn’t utilize the Wicked Edge, is to sharpen it with a “slack belt” on a belt grinder.

Welcome Back John.  Love the Shuns.

Safety shields wouldn’t protect from that. After experiences similar accidents, now I try to throw a folded towel over the clamped knife as soon as I’m done with that phase of the sharpening process.   Before I start reaching around and making any stone changes and adjustments.  “Live and learn”.

Welcome William,  The first knives I sharpened when I first got my WE over five years ago were also  Wusthofs.  I, like you, searched the web and found the published 14º bevel angle claim.  We entertained a lot of discussion on this Forum back them with mostly disbelief that the steel could hold an edge and a bevel that narrow and acute.   I be…[Read more]

Not to criticize your sharpening decision but to explain the resulting alternatives.

If I’m unsure which way I want to go with the bevel angle, narrow angle or wider angle, I’ve learned to start with the wider bevel angle first.  That creates a shorter bevel and requires less steel removal.  When you profile a narrower bevel, this bevel as you s…[Read more]

I can only comment that the higher model number designate, WE320, assures you it is the latest version WE Gen 3 Pro.  You know you’re not purchasing old stock.  There have been some upgrades made to the Gen 3: the Vice, end brackets and micro-adjustment screws and locking mechanism and the stone storage shelf pedestal since the WE300 Gen3 Pro m…[Read more]

Where are you seeing these designations? At what site?

Karl the grit you choose to use should be commensurate to the amount of steel that needs to be removed.  I try to use the highest grit, to begin with, that will let me get the job done.  If I find I’m having to spend too much time and effort, then I’ll step back to a lower grit to increase the amount of metal removal and save me time.  Going ba…[Read more]

I do employ a similar method when sharpening chef’s knives like Gyutos that are relatively flat blade with a gentle curve to the point. This method works very well for the relatively flat Santoku style, Petty Knives and slicing blades.

I have all the models/version Wicked Edges including the 2018 WE130.

very

MStarmer.  you did a good job!  From the closeness and uniformity of the scratch patterns it appears your technique is much improved compared to first photo you posted.  The before VS the after picture suggests to me the knife was initially sharpened at a broader, more obtuse angle then the 15º angle you chose to profile the knife to.  The begi…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum William.  As you said the WE allows you the ability to sharpen both side bevels at the same time, alternatingly, because the centered vertical clamping without the need to flip or rotate the knife.  I have no personal experience with the KME.  I can attest to the accurate repeatability of the clamping position with the WE an…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum, Steve.  The degree markings are per side so match the number, do not divide in half.  Be aware the angle indicators are just an approximation.  They will get you close to 20 degrees.  Realize that same 20 degree setting will give varied results depending on the size of the knife and the clamping position.  If it is impo…[Read more]

You can get just as good a polished, scratch free result with any WE model.  They all work similarly.  They all clamp the knife in blade up position to allow access to both sides with a progression of sharpening stones at a preset fixed angle.  The degree of sharpness, polish and scratch free appearance depends on the stones that are being ut…[Read more]

I always use at least a 4 micron/2 micron progression, at the minimum.  Following with 1 micron/ 0.5 micron will give an even smoother more polished edge.  Remember stropping is a different medium then diamond stones with a technique all to it’s own.  The strokes are only edge trailing.  That is up and off or away from the knife edge.  I stro…[Read more]

I use strops on every knife I sharpen as the final stage in the sharpening progression.  The strops when used properly really bring out the best of a sharpened edge.

I do use the 1500 diamond stone as the final sharpening grit when I’m using a diamond stone sharpening progression.  I only continue with lapping films to get a highly polished ap…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum and Community, Doc Todd.  The answer without out being a smart ass is “as long as it takes.”  Each knife is different.  Depending on the style, shape, size, steel and condition it can be very quick, like take 20-30 minutes or require a long time, like hours and hours.  This is only after you learn how to use the…[Read more]

Karl, what experience resulted in this opinion? Was it “first hand’ or are you just sharing or repeating the opinions or reviews from other CRK owners.