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First up an 8” Wustof Chef’s knife

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  • #46965
    William
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 38

    So I can hit the ground running when my WE 130 and extras get here (day or so), looking for guidance.  My first victim is a neglected, 8” Wustof chef’s knife.   Got to use my 10x loupe 🙂 and there are nicks about an inch from the heel on up.   You can feel them as well with the fingernail.  Not sure if this is true or not, but I looked it up and Wustof says about 14 deg.  If it’s on the internet must be true 😉

    1.  Would this be a reprofile due to the nicks that have to be taken out? * Learning terminology yet
    2. Use the sharpie to assist finding said angle? *I also have an angle cube to help
    3. Would I start with the 100 or 200 that comes in the kit?
    4. An all purpose chef’s knife, would I stop at 600 or 800?  *I have the 800/1000 stones coming as well
    5. Would I strop afterwards? *I have a set of strops with 4/2 micron as an addition

    Any other pointers, hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

    William

    #46967
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 74
    • Replies: 2735

    Welcome William,  The first knives I sharpened when I first got my WE over five years ago were also  Wusthofs.  I, like you, searched the web and found the published 14º bevel angle claim.  We entertained a lot of discussion on this Forum back them with mostly disbelief that the steel could hold an edge and a bevel that narrow and acute.   I believe I found the angle measured, with the sharpie technique used to match the bevel,  at less then the published 14º.

    I owned and used and sharpened with my WE a collection of Wusthof Knives I purchased individually, not as a set, so they were of different types and series.  I used a 18º  and 20º per side bevel with good long lasting results, depending on the knife style.

    All knives no matter their condition when clamped will undergo a small bit of reprofiling due to the fixed angle design of the Wicked Edge Sharpeners.  It is up you to clamp and orient the knife properly to limit the amount of steel lost or sacrificed to the initial profiling.  If you have clamped the knife in a fashion to match the bevel very precisely the steel removed will be very minimal.  If you clamp the knife more improperly more steel can be lost and the shape of the knife changed.

    Your 8″ Chef I assume has been previously sharpened so to match the bevel with the sharpie will give a match of the latest bevel angle.  I do think this is the best way to go.  I recommend a new user/sharpener with a WE start by matching the existing bevel at least to learn how to “find the sweet spot“,  and learn how best to efficiently clamp a knife so as not to loose too much steel and change the existing shape, (i.e., profile) of a knife while first learning your sharpening technique.

    I recommend during this learning curve process all new users experience that you stay with wider, more obtuse, bevel angle settings.  It will be easier to accomplish for just getting started and give quicker to see results so you get an idea of what I mean by sharpening technique.

    The grit I would choose is the finest grit that will get the job done with the least amount of effort.  You can judge this in a minute or two if the stone isn’t touching the edge or you’re having to apply to much force, then I’d go down to a coarser grit.  If the knife isn’t terrible I would probably try to start with 200 grit on a first sharpening job with the WE.   I’d start higher, like 400 grit, for subsequent sharpenings with the same knife.

    I would use this opportunity to take advantage of the learning process and take this knife through the finest grit you have just for practice.  That is use all the stones in your progression for practice.

    I strop every sharpening job at least 4µ/2µ. at 2º less, (narrower) angle setting then the sharpening guide rod angle setting, as the last step.

    William, no disrespect intended, you ask a lot of questions that have been discussed with a great bit more detail and with the sharpener’s related experience all through-out the Forum.  Our main purpose and goal of this Forum is to help new Wicked Edge users learn how to use their new Wick Edge Precision Sharpeners, (WEPS).  I invite you, really, I implore you, to take the time to read the Forum.  The posts and threads you’ll find more valuable to your experience then trying to think of the right questions to ask on your own.  Go to the main Forum and look through the categories.  Basic Techniques and Sharpening Strategies is a good place to start.  While waiting for your WEPS to arrive, read, read, read!

    Welcome

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #46968
    William
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 38

    Welcome William, The first knives I sharpened when I first got my WE over five years ago were also Wusthofs. I, like you, searched the web and found the published 14º bevel angle claim. We entertained a lot of discussion on this Forum back them with mostly disbelief that the steel could hold an edge and a bevel that narrow and acute. I believe I found the angle measured, with the sharpie technique used to match the bevel, at less then the published 14º. I owned and used and sharpened with my WE a collection of Wusthof Knives I purchased individually, not as a set, so they were of different types and series. I used a 18º and 20º per side bevel with good long lasting results, depending on the knife style. All knives no matter their condition when clamped will undergo a small bit of reprofiling due to the fixed angle design of the Wicked Edge Sharpeners. It is up you to clamp and orient the knife properly to limit the amount of steel lost or sacrificed to the initial profiling. If you have clamped the knife in a fashion to match the bevel very precisely the steel removed will be very minimal. If you clamp the knife more improperly more steel can be lost and the shape of the knife changed. Your 8″ Chef I assume has been previously sharpened so to match the bevel with the sharpie will give a match of the latest bevel angle. I do think this is the best way to go. I recommend a new user/sharpener with a WE start by matching the existing bevel at least to learn how to “find the sweet spot“, and learn how best to efficiently clamp a knife so as not to loose too much steel and change the existing shape, (i.e., profile) of a knife while first learning your sharpening technique. I recommend during this learning curve process all new users experience that you stay with wider, more obtuse, bevel angle settings. It will be easier to accomplish for just getting started and give quicker to see results so you get an idea of what I mean by sharpening technique. The grit I would choose is the finest grit that will get the job done with the least amount of effort. You can judge this in a minute or two if the stone isn’t touching the edge or you’re having to apply to much force, then I’d go down to a coarser grit. If the knife isn’t terrible I would probably try to start with 200 grit on a first sharpening job with the WE. I’d start higher, like 400 grit, for subsequent sharpenings with the same knife. I would use this opportunity to take advantage of the learning process and take this knife through the finest grit you have just for practice. That is use all the stones in your progression for practice. I strop every sharpening job at least 4µ/2µ. at 2º less, (narrower) angle setting then the sharpening guide rod angle setting, as the last step. William, no disrespect intended, you ask a lot of questions that have been discussed with a great bit more detail and with the sharpener’s related experience all through-out the Forum. Our main purpose and goal of this Forum is to help new Wicked Edge users learn how to use their new Wick Edge Precision Sharpeners, (WEPS). I invite you, really, I implore you, to take the time to read the Forum. The posts and threads you’ll find more valuable to your experience then trying to think of the right questions to ask on your own. Go to the main Forum and look through the categories. Basic Techniques and Sharpening Strategies is a good place to start. While waiting for your WEPS to arrive, read, read, read! Welcome

    Marc,

    First, thank you for your detailed reply.  I do appreciate it.   I will definitely start learning to navigate WE Forums and utilize the search functions.    I’ve read How to Fnd the Sweet Spot and intend to read it again prior to my WE 130 arrival.  That seems to be THE  basic starting point where everything will follow.  This is going to be fun!

    William

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #46975
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I’ll chime in here, only to say that I eschew use of the 100/200 stones on thin edges and/or low angles.  “Eschew” means I don’t go there, especially with new stones that haven’t been very well broken in.  These stones have a tendency to tear out chunks of steel along the edge – damage which will take a LOT of 400 work to remove.  What’s more, you can’t go back to a coarser stone than a 400 to remove the damage – you’d just create more damage.  As for me, I don’t use the 100/200 stones when I am anywhere near the apex.  In other words, if the blade is being reprofiled, I’ll use the coarse stones only to remove larger amounts of steel while watching carefully as I approach what will become the apex.

    A slightly different case might be where the edge is very blunt.  Here, I’ll use the coarse stone to bring one side right to the apex line (where I want the apex to be), then use the coarse on the other side only to approach the apex, then switching to 400-grit to actually form the apex.  On the first side, I can use the coarse stone longer because there is no apex which can break away.

    Reprofiling in this context refers to the process of removing steel other than that which would be removed in a touch-up.  At least that’s my take on it.  It can apply if you are changing the bevel angles or where the existing bevels are inappropriate and you decide to correct the fault.  The latter case is, for example, where the factory sharpener has ground asymmetrical angles, either side-to-side or heel-to-tip.  In such cases, the WEPS is the ideal tool for the job.

     

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