Chazz

I believe some people want to try use every grit and every medium they own trying to figure out how to put them in an order of logical decreasing coarseness based on a grit table.  Different mediums have different characteristics and they all don’t work well together.  (Sometimes you have to choose one or the other.  This is where experience co…[Read more]

Wicked Edge, USA has changed the nomenclature on the “Field and Sport” and the “Field and Sport Pro Models”.

The Field and Sport is now the WE120 “Portable” base option.

The Field and Sport Pro is now the WE130 “Portable” base option.

When you select to shop either the WE120 or the WE130 you now select the base or mount style you want to order…[Read more]

“Duke”, Wicked Edge has combined the Field and Sport Pro under the WE130.  It is the same sharpener sold with the elevated wide mounting platform as it’s option.  It’s listed as the “Portable” option.  Click the orange button “shop now” and it brings up all the base and mount options.

They have done the same thing with the WE120 combining the “p…[Read more]

Welcome to the Forum and Happy New Year.

Steve sounds like you’re on the right track.  The stones will yield better results as they continue to break in.  Concentrate on your technique and consistency in your strokes.  I think you’ll see improvement and results you’re wanting.  It usually takes a good 8 or 10 knives worth sharpening to break in the stones and get through the learning cur…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Steve.  Please provide some background.  Which WEPS model are you using and how old is your system and how long have you been using.  These are factors that influence the edge.

To make a tip pointier requires removing steel and profiling the knife shape to be longer and thinner.  You already removed the thinner elongated point steel when you repaired the damaged tip.

On top of this the 15º per side bevel is a taller thinner elongated bevel as compared to the 18º per side you want to reprofile the bevels to.  You are rea…[Read more]

Use your knives and enjoy them.  This Goo Gone does a great job removing adhesive residue.  For the worse cases I apply it with a Q-tip or applicator stick, sometimes two or three applications.  I let it sit and soak into the glue residue in-between applications.  The sticky residue usually wipes right off.

I’ve applied it to paper sticker lab…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Doug.

Nice job on the dust cover boots.

I use nylon knurled knob thumb screws 3/8″ X 10-32 I sourced from Grainger to lock my micro-angle adjustments in an opposing clamping fashion.  The nylon holds tight and doesn’t bugger the threads.  This locking method applies to the older, pre-2017 versions of the WE 120 & WE130.  Now the new versions, 2017 an…[Read more]

I may be wrong but I believe that is a feature you can control in your computer software and browser settings.

1. For each and every grit stone used in my sharpening progression, after first checking and adjusting my angle setting for preciseness, with a zeroed digital cube
2. I utilize a scrubbing stroke, (up – down – up – down), used bilaterally, (i.e., to both knife sides), and alternatingly, (i.e., some on the left knife side, then some on the right k…

[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, Brian.

First, I’d suggest a box of Band-Aids.  LOL

Then, a 1500 grit diamond stone / glass blank platen and a couple more blank glass platens for 6µ, 3µ and 1.5µ diamond lapping films.   Then a couple pairs of leather strops for 4µ/2µ and 1.0µ/0.5µ diamond emulsion sprays.   That should round you out for every c…[Read more]

Welcome to the Forum “Epi”, which model did she get you?

Lapping these ceramics scratch them to create a grit mirror of what lapping stone was used.  It does not create a clean, level uniform surface of the characteristics of the Ceramic stones grit it’s rated to.

I look to have that parallel, consistent, scratch pattern from bevel shoulder to knife edge, from the heel of the knife to the tip of the knife, and on both sides of the knife, before I move onto the next, lower grit.

NorCalQ – Here’s an added lesson to take away form your photographic observation exercise:

You can see from the photographs that you have apexed the knife edge with your stone work.  The bevel right at the knife edge appears ragged and in line with the scratches and groves left from the stones showing me you have a bevel that is uniform from the…[Read more]

There seems to be a long break-in period on the W.E. ceramics.  They seem to come with some sort of a coating or residue from the manufacturing process that takes quite a while to wear this off.  Some users have suggested to rub the like grit ceramic stones together to help wear off this coating to expose the raw ceramics.

Expidia,  IMO, I have found knives with steel harder then VG10 (HRc 60-61) enter in to the chipping realm.  These harder steels besides being more difficult to sharpen tend to get more expensive with their elaborate steel formulations.  These harder steels tend to chip with use, rather then just wear down and dull, and micro-chip while sh…[Read more]

Tom, what did you accomplish with this modification?  I understand you’re in control of your positions, and they’re no longer dictated by the detent balls.  Are your positions different from where the detents positioned you, or closer?  How has it changed?