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Best way to get a tip pointier?

This topic contains 2 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Expidia 12/30/2018 at 12:43 pm.

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  • #48841

    Expidia
    Participant
    • Topics: 31
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    Other than manually pointing the tip up by whetstones. . . The WE stone path is pretty much locked into place.  Other than raising or lowering the tip how would I sharpen the tip pointier?  I’m going to re-profile from 15 degrees to 18 at the same time.

    Thanks

    • This topic was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by  Expidia.
    #48843

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 54
    • Replies: 1501

    To make a tip pointier requires removing steel and profiling the knife shape to be longer and thinner.  You already removed the thinner elongated point steel when you repaired the damaged tip.

    On top of this the 15º per side bevel is a taller thinner elongated bevel as compared to the 18º per side you want to reprofile the bevels to.  You are really going to be applying a micro-bevel on top of the 15º bevel.  If you want to remove the existing thinner 15º bevel and replace it with the 18º bevel profile you are again looking to remove a lot of steel.  As you remove the steel you are moving the knife edge lower into the wider thicker portion of the knife.

    To do both add the thinner pointier tip and remove the existing 15º bevel and replace it with the 18º bevel again you’re getting into the proportions of the knife.  Everything is proportional.  To regain that original thinner pointier knife shape and new 18º bevel profile will require in essence grinding or making a scaled down version of the same knife.  You’ll need to remove steel all over the knife. (This isn’t restoring a car where you can replace the steel and weld on new parts.)

    IMO, enjoy this knife and use it as it is.  It’s still a nice knife.  If you want the profile of the original knife get a new one.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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    #48849

    Expidia
    Participant
    • Topics: 31
    • Replies: 174

    OK Marc that makes sense.  I’ll keep it at 15 degrees and just resharpen it again to remove the small burr left fromm my first re-profile.  I really like the way it looks. The re-profile did a lot for the damaged tip anyway.  I was afraid if I tried to focus on the tip I would add a secondary bevel on top of the first one.

    This time, I’ll focus on the heal area as that (as always with me) can use a little extra work.

    Love the choil you suggested, as I can get the stones to cover the entire blade now.

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