sksharp

4µ/2µ Diamond Emulsion on leather is a good starting place.  I strop every knife I sharpen with this pair.

Welcome to the forum Mark.  The WE130 is a good choice.  If you can swing it the Pro Pack 3 is the way to go.  You’ll probably end up buying everything it includes sooner or later.

I just finished Ed’s PM2.  I sharpened it to 17º per side, just as he had last done.  I used Shapton Glass Whetstones, (these are no longer available).  The progress: Shaptons 500/1000/2000/4000/6000/8000. Then W.E. DLF’s: 3µ/1.5µ/1.0µ/0.5µ. Then leather strops with 4µ then 2µ W.E. diamond emulsions.

Here are the BESS Scores and photos:…[Read more]

Here’s a recent forum thread with products/accessories/adapters offered on this forum for Wicked Edge users.

Depending on when you purchased the 1500 diamond stones they may differ more in the scratch patterns from the 2200/3000.

Here’s what I wrote on 11/05/2019 in Post #52574 in the previous page of this same thread:

I don’t know this is the case, but I’m guessing it is the case.  My very first 1500 grit diamond stone pair from 2016 was exactly like…[Read more]

Many of us use lower stone stops to limit how low the stones slide down on the guide rod.  I set my lower stops up alittle to keep the top edge of the stone just above the knige edge, all along the entire length of the clamped knife.

Also shedding diamonds from newer stones and steel dust from the sharpening process can scratch the knife sides…[Read more]

Jess, I will share this with you: With Wicked Edge Sharpeners you do get what you pay for.  Each incrementally more expensive model allows you to achieve the sharpening results you’re hoping to, with less effort, with less difficulty, faster and sooner. By faster and sooner I mean, with the WE130 you’ll learn how to sharpen knives well, soon…[Read more]

Jess, I sent you a private message.

My sharpening advice here is the same as I would share with you.

I think it’s always best to match the factory bevel angle the first time sharpening any knife edge. Afterall, the factory that made this knife chose an edge angle that they have found works well with that steel in that style knife.

Later on after gaining some experience using that knife with this factory edge profile you’ll be able to make an…[Read more]

That’s a nice looking knife, especially at an inexpensive price point.  The combination of these different edge profiles and angles adds to the interesting quality of this EDC knife.  IMO, to ignore the edge break and round it over as if it was a long continuous belly takes away from the character, interest and function of this knife.

Without h…[Read more]

As I’ve written, I’m not proponent of switching back and forth between stone mediums.

To go from a diamond stone that imparts a scratch pattern in the bevel we’re sharpening, with just the points of the diamond grit particlles, contacting the bevel steel, then to a ceramic medium that works by making a broader full surface contact that flattens,…[Read more]

I share this opinion.  My personal preference too, between the ceramics is the microfine: 1.4 micron/ 0.6 microns, over the superfine: 1200/1600  grits.

I didn’t mention these in my post above since you only offered the 1200/1600 grit ceramics in your options.

I’m up for the opportunity.  Thanks…

Please include your clamping/positioning settings and indicate which alignment guide you employed to set it up and the bevel angle you prefer I profile it with.

FYI: I will be using the “no longer produced” Shapton Glass Stones, whetstones.  Is that an issue?

Ed di you ever sharpen the S110V with the Shapton Whetsone progression, edge leading only.  I use a mostly perpendicular sharpening angle.  I’d love to know if that would help with the chip out issue with the diamond stones.  I use only whetstones to sharpen all of my very hery hard chip prone steels now, with good results, where I had sh…[Read more]

I’d recommend you stay with the diamonds.  I’ve never been a big fan or proponent of using the ceramics.  When they were first released they were the pretty much the only option we had, to use for refining thefurther after 1000 grit sharpened edge.  They were all we had.  Now with the production and release of the 1500, 2200 and 3000, we have thi…[Read more]

James, the newest version W.E. plastic paddles are a two piece paddle, glued together, clam-shell like.  I also use a bronze brush run through the bore holes to remove any excess glue, extruded from the assembly process.  Some new paddles bind or don’t slide freely, on the guide rods.  The bronze brush removes this glue, well, and resolves that issue.

The damage I see that is almost reminiscent of a serrated edge in the close-up photo above is a badly rolled edge.  You can see the steel with the half circle curves with the knife edge collapsed in the backround. The other damage forward of the solid bolstered spine appears the knife steel has folded or collapsed under the pressure of use.

This…[Read more]

Each sharpening medium, whether using diamond stones, ceramic stones, lapping films or whetstones imparts a different character scratch pattern but which is consistent within the grit progressions in those individual mediums.  In the situation you’re discussing, that is wanting to sharpen to a finer, more refined grit level.  I suggest you stick w…[Read more]

Welcome LoneWoodsman,  the WE130 is a great model, my favorite.  It can sharpen a wide variety of knife styles and sizes well.

The Skandi grind knife can be a difficult knife to sharpen, even for experienced W.E. users.  Like tcmeyer stated it may require extra care, techniques and knowledge at times and may/probably will require the use of a W.…[Read more]