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Does it stay cleaner

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  • #53107
    Eric
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 17

    Have a new WE 130. I am Loving this thing exept for a few minor things

     

    1.  Thumb screws coming loose  ..Turn angle bar around  got it
    2. Grit in the Gen 3 clamp…  Saw file on dis=assemble and clean, o.k. , I can handle that…How often??Does it get better as dimonds get worn??
      1. ……..Read something on some soft duct tape to cover clamp…. Is that what I paid $600 for??  A Little disappointing, but I can work with it,,,,,, I guess.
      2. Is Amazon where you get the rubber booty thngs. ( they were not available and I wasn’t sure of the size??)

    That’s it for now. I’ll be back with more questions later

    Thanks ,

    Eric (Dozer)

     

    #53108
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2148

    Eric, from my own experiences, yes, once the diamond stones have broken in, less loose and excess diamond grit is sloughed off from the stone paddles and onto the sharpener.  Besides the stone debris, knives being sharpened for the very first time, with the W.E., will yield more steel dust as they are being profiled this first sharpening, then when sharpened during subsequent sharpening touch ups.

    I also believe there may be steel dust and residue from the machining processes of the vise’s internal parts that benefit from dismantling and cleaning the vise.  A dry teflon lubricant applied to these parts during reassembly will help the parts move more freely.

    After that first dismantling and lubricating, it is much longer and farther between needed cleaning and maintenance.

    The Wicked Edge is a well made precision machined tool.  The W. E. is able to do well , extremely precisely, with great accuracy and repeatedly, what other knife sharpeners fail to.  I have found that employing some modifications, adapters and accessories enhances my W.E. sharpeners making them easier to work with.   Here are some links to these accessories, (including the dust boots), that many of us W.E. users have found helpful to simplify our sharpening experiences with our W.E. setups.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #53116
    Expidia
    Participant
    • Topics: 46
    • Replies: 337

    I know how you feel.  I was surprised how open my first vice on the Gen 3 Pro was.  I too wondered how WE could produce such a precision instrument yet leave the cam open to diamond grit and metal filings.  I upgraded and bought their newest enclosed version Gen 3 vice off the WE website and sold the older vice to a friend for $150.  If you ever wanted to to upgrade you could easily sell your old one here in the buy and sell thread.  So far I’ve only broken this new model down once after a year to clean and lube it.  There was hardly any buildup.  Check out the mids thread that Marc might have already linked you too.

    #53121
    Mike
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 3

    I too purchased the WE130 before Christmas – what lubricant do you suggest and where

    #53123
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2148

    This lubricant has been working well for me for.

    Here’s the vise dismantling instructions: WEClampCleaning

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

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    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #53125
    Eric
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 17

    EXpedia       ; I think I have the newest gen 3 clamp on the WE 130

    Mike  :   Using Ballistoll(spelling) on the rods only . Once I clean it up, I’m going to use Hornady drylube a d cover the pivot arms with the RC covers Like                         MarcH and some others use. I’ve been doing some reading in here. lol

    MarcH :   Thank you, Found that last night and already downloaded. Hope you don’t mind dumb questions, cuase I’m probably going to have a LOT of growing pains. lol  thanks for your help

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by Eric.
    #53127
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2148

    Eric, any questions are welcome.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #53241
    James
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 5

    Using Ballistoll(spelling) on the rods only . Once I clean it up, I’m going to use Hornady drylube a d cover the pivot arms with the RC covers Like MarcH and some others use. I’ve been doing some reading in here.

    I’d be cautious about using any petroleum based lubricants on those rods. Petroleum based lubricants, will over time, cause rubber, vinyl and certain plastics to dry out and crack. Just lube one of your sink washers with vaseline, and see how long it takes to start leaking.
    With the slight amount that would be left on those rods, after cleaning, lubing, and wiping off, you might never have a problem with with your handles, but…..
    Silicone lubricants are usually recommended for anything that comes in contact with rubber, plastic, vinyl, etc. Teflon would probably be fine as well.
    Both are available on Amazon as dry lubes.

    #53242
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2148

    Just to be clear, I only apply the dry wax lubricants for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and on the ball ends, after I wipe all the parts clean to remove any steel dust from sharpening using a clean dry micro-fiber towel.  I do not apply anything on the boot covers or any rubber parts. The guide rods I do wipe clean with the dry clean towel first, then a silicone gun rag.  I also pull a small wad patch cut from the silicone gun rag, with a string, through the bore holes of the plastic sharpening stone paddles when they seem resistant to slide and rotate around the guide rods while sharpening.

    Wiping the guide rods and pulling the silicone wad through the handle bores is the most frequent maintenance process I exercise.  This makes a noticeable improvement in sharpening ease.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #53255
    Eric
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 17

    well noted gentleman, Thank you

    #53277
    James
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 5

    Just to be clear, I only apply the dry wax lubricants for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and on the ball ends, after I wipe all the parts clean to remove any steel dust from sharpening using a clean dry micro-fiber towel. I do not apply anything on the boot covers or any rubber parts. The guide rods I do wipe clean with the dry clean towel first, then a silicone gun rag. I also pull a small wad patch cut from the silicone gun rag, with a string, through the bore holes of the plastic sharpening stone paddles when they seem resistant to slide and rotate around the guide rods while sharpening. Wiping the guide rods and pulling the silicone wad through the handle bores is the most frequent maintenance process I exercise. This makes a noticeable improvement in sharpening ease.

    I think a bore snake would be great for cleaning the inside of the paddles. You can get them in lengths for pistol/revolver, and most have a soft brass brush, followed by a swab at the end. Clean and lube at the same time.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #53281
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2148

    James, the newest version W.E. plastic paddles are a two piece paddle, glued together, clam-shell like.  I also use a bronze brush run through the bore holes to remove any excess glue, extruded from the gluing/assembly process.  Some of these new paddles bind slightly or don’t slide freely, on the guide rods.  The bronze brush removes this glue residue, well, and resolves that issue.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    2 users thanked author for this post.
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