Marc H

Is your blade edge 5/8″ above the clamp?  This is an ongoing concern/question.  Every knife is different.  The degree markings are only accurate for knives mounted 5/8″ above the clamp.  Most of us just use the degree markings as a general guide to set things up for a sharpening session.  Your angle cube is your most important tool.

Don’t rule out buying the 50/80 WE stones either, they do a great job.  I used mine a lot since purchasing my sharpener.

NorCal, which Tormek are you referring to, there seem to be numerous Tormek products.

Michael

I also suspect that you are rounding the apex ever so slightly as you do additional stropping. It may have very little to do with the particular grit of the strips you are using hand have more to do with the number of strokes.

Thanks, I’ve seen that.  Believe me, I’ve rotated the adapter as many ways as possible and still can’t get the angle I need.

Congratulations on reaching your sharpening goal!

I’ve got the Gen 3 Pro and the scissor adapter.  I’m trying to figure out what factory bar you’re talking about.

Welcome to forum BK!  One point I’d like to make after Marc’s comment about YouTube videos is to be careful in implementing some of the techniques used by those posting.  Some of them seem like they’re trying to set some kind of land speed record when sharpening their knives which can be extremely dangerous when someone is new to the WEPS.  Ju…[Read more]

Welcome BK!

Some advise on getting the tip right:

1.  Get the knife clamped properly. If you have the knife clamped in a poor position then you will likely have very broad bevels at the tip. Check out the thread titled “How I find the sweet spot.”
2. Don’t let the stones roll over the tip. You will have to exercise care when working the tip to…

[Read more]

The only time I use the angle guide on the WEPS is when I’ve used a Sharpie on the edge and am trying to find the angle of the blade, I can adjust the angle back and forth at 0.5 degree increments until I find it.  The rest of the time, I’m using my angle cube, not a big deal.

I also start my diamond film progression (on those knives where I choose to use them) at 6 micron. I follow that up with 3 micron and 1.5 micron films and then the 4 / 2 micron strops. I don’t currently own any of the finer films (1, 0.5, 0.1). Most knives I sharpen get diamonds up to 3000 grit, then the 1.4 / 0.6 micron ceramic stones followed by…[Read more]

The ceramic stones do help improve the polish and would fit pretty well after your 2200 diamond stone. If you really want to improve the polish on your bevels (and don’t want to go to lapping films) then I suggest spending a lot of time using your strops.

Some side to side angle variation is normal on the generation 3 pro model. The micro adjustment knobs should have more than enough range to compensate for that issue. I usually set mine somewhere towards the middle of their range to allow adjustments to be made in either direction when sharpening. If it is an issue that bothers you then I suggest…[Read more]

I have found that holding the stones from the very bottom of the paddles helps mitigate the chances of cutting myself. With my hands on the bottom of the paddles there are very few instances where my hands are higher than the edge of the knife. The sides of the blade won’t cut you.

Wow, that is an unreasonable policy in my opinion.

I think you should still be able to clamp this knife on the flat area in front of the stop pin. There might be a portion of the jaws that aren’t able to grip anything (in the thumb hole area) but that shouldn’t prevent you from being able to sharpen. If all else fails you can always clamp the…[Read more]

Can you disassemble the knife and then clamp on the flat section where the pivot is located?

I believe that cow and kangaroo leather both have an inherent grit to them because of the silicates used to treat the leather.