Marc H

You did a beautiful job on that one Readheads. I’ll bet your dentist was impressed.

The WE130 is definitely the way to go then. If you want to go IMO. If you want to give yourself additional options out of the gate then consider adding the 800 / 1000 stones and the 4 /2 micron strop set.

Is this your preferred method for sharpening? I tried it and it was interesting, but I’m not sure that I posses the coordination to make it work for me as a go to method.

I have another question. Do you want to take up sharpening as a hobby unto itself, or is this just a means to an end for you?

You said you’d like a setup to grow into. In my mind that implies that you’re interested in going deep into sharpening as a hobby. If that is the case then I suggest getting the WE130. You can get additional stones and…[Read more]

How thick is the blade stock? You might want to get the jaws designed for thick blades.

Thanks MarcH. That clears it up for me very well.

I’m pretty new to the WE, but wonder how you know you are maintaining the apex if you aren’t creating a burr with each stone progression. Shouldn’t the primary apex be maintained through the sharpening progression? Someone please explain primary bevel/apex vs. a micro bevel and advantages or disadvantages of each.

I understood and wanted to let you know that I tried that.  The problem I had was when I tilted it back, the vise wouldn’t clamp down enough to keep it stable.  I think the vise loses its efficiency when an object is placed in it that doesn’t span the entire clamp.  Maybe next time I’ll try tilting it back and stabilizing the far end with a RAM clamp?

Good gosh, it is late there!  I tried clamping the knife at an angle so the second edge would be parallel to the table but the vise wouldn’t hold it in place.  Ended up clamping the entire knife down and working that second edge off the front of the sharpener at a 10-15 degree offset.  The worst part of doing it that way is checking the angle at…[Read more]

Yeah, it’s something I bought at Lowes.  Combination poly/linseed especially made for cutting boards/food stuffs.  Went out to the garage to take a picture but I must have used the last of it.

My end grain wood cutting board lives on my countertop next to the sink and the plastic ones stood up in a lower cabinets.  I’ve used the wooden one so much that I got a level out at it’s 6-year mark and laid it out end to end and there was a 1/4″ concave dip in it from my cutting veggies.  So I took it out to the workbench and using a belt s…[Read more]

That is an awfully long time spent per stone. Are you using a magnifying device to help you see what is going on at the edge? I use the angle cube on each grit change, but I also use the sharpie method to double check because my angle cube is finicky. The sharpie does not lie.

This is the one on my wish list.

https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Digital-DXL360S-Protractor-Magnetic/dp/B0745D9W4H/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=dxl360s&qid=1575935317&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-1

Those 4 /2 micron strops are great as a finishing step on nearly any grit finished knife. There is no need to use a finer stone than the 1000 grit before using the 4 / 2 micron strop set unless you desire a more refined or shinny finish. That is a matter of personal opinion. 1000 grit is a middle of the road finish from my perspective. It is…[Read more]

I think you will be best served by getting a set of strops. Get the 4 / 2 micron diamond emulsion stop set.

I think you’re off to a good start. Sharpen those cheap blades a few times and get a feel for how the setup works. Consistency of technique is the key to getting the best possible results. Work slowly and stay safe.

Can you explain the thinking behind getting the apex only on the primary bevel?