Chazz

I cut the chamois tags ends that stick up above the vise close to the jaws with a sharp scissors to keep it out of the way.

There are limits to what you can clamp and sharpen with the W.E. that’s why we find the need to utilize the Low Angle Adapter and the Tormek small knife adapter.  It’s good that you have both model vises to pick and choose…[Read more]

The newest version gen 3 vise has a tension adjuster.  For your older version vise you may find if you clamp your knives higher in the jaws, closer to the spine where the knife is thicker and wrap a small patch of dry real leather chamois around the knife where it fits between the jaws, you should find the knife holds tighter.

I’m wondering if…[Read more]

It’s quite a challenge.  It’s limtless how many serrated knife edges there are:

For me, with the ceramics stones, it’s an “either or” situation.  Use either the Superfines (1200/1600) or the Microfines (1.4µ/0.6µ).  They are manufactured differently, have different scratch patterns and characteristics that I don’t find blend well together.  My personal preference is the Microfine set.  I have tried to utilize both sets of th…[Read more]

Most of us have torn up a strop pair or two at the beginning when first learning how to use them, as we figure out our techniques.  After replacing my first strop leathers on the paddles pairs for the profile I usually utilize, I haven’t needed to replace the leather since.

For that reason I do like the hot glue, that’s used on them…[Read more]

Kevin, as I mull over your issue, I realized you said “on one side”.  This suggest you may have another or an additional issue at play.  By the nature of the WE100 Standard Vise System some knives when clamped will lean towards the left side.  This will make the bevels uneven in height from knife side to side or the bevel may appear in a di…[Read more]

Kevin, Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, from one of the “usual suspects”.

From the description of your issue it sounds like your knife is not clamped in the “sweet spot” sharpening position.  That is the position that allows the sharpening stones to reach the bevel all along the knife’s length.  I suggest your read this forum thread  and/or vie…[Read more]

Derek, everytime you take a diamond abrasive to your steel you will remove some steel.  No matter how small an amount it is.  If you feel a need to touch it up I suggest you use a leather strop.

The issue I see is if you don’t just use your knife and enjoy it till it truly is in need of sharpening you’ll never realize how durable and long l…[Read more]

Michael,  I suggest you check your source for your “Diamond Lapping Films”.  From the micron grits you have listed I’m thinking they may be another abrasive medium other then diamonds.  Here’s a 3M source for the various grits 3M makes and it doesn’t appear to coincide with your grits. W.E. offers only: 9, 6, 3, 1.5, 1, & 0.1µ DLFs.  Jende offe…[Read more]

If it’s sharper and it cuts better then the not dull knife you started with, I’d say your touch-up was successful. If each time you do that it prolongs the time between needing to sharpen it, you’re doing a good job.

Is it sharper? Does it cut better?

Here are the alignment guides superimposed to give you a comparison.  As you see the original alignment guide is just a ruler labeled A,B,C, & D with hash mark indicators for 1/2 units. It is interpolated for smaller divisions.  This compares with the Advanced Alignment Guide, (AAG) with a capital letter for each 1/4 unit corresponding to the o…[Read more]

You’re looking for that single position and angle setting that removes all the marker across the entire height of the bevel.  Understand that this is dependent on the clamping position of the knife.  If the knife isn’t positioned correctly no matter how you adjust the angle you’ll never make full bevel contact. Where the knife is best positioned f…[Read more]

Steve, applying a marker to your knife edge, (I like red because it’s easy to see), will allow you to see exactly where your stones are impacting your knife’s edge and removing steel, as it removes the markings.  This will allow you to better adjust your sharpening angle to match your bevels for effectiveness.

I have found sometimes trying to wrap the spine with a soft medium, in essence creating a shim, is easier said then done.  The shim mediums shift and compress under clamping pressure.  The shim is not even from side to side since we’re trying to offset the leftward lean.  At least using the correction factor although it’s wonky and a “fudge fa…[Read more]

Here’s the link to the W.E. users sharpening settings submitted for their knives: https://wickededgeusa.com/pages/knife-sharpening-settings-submitted-by-customers

Click the search, (magnifying glass far right-top and enter “Manix 2” for those submitted listings.  It appears that most of the listing were made with the original standard alignment t…[Read more]

Steve, you can use your kangaroo strop, free hand, to maintain the edge between sharpening.  My favorite and most used W. E. Strop pair is the 4µ/2µ Diamond Emulsion on leather.

Steve I like using the lightest grit you can get by with, like airscapes wrote.  Using the fine grit stones at about 20º per side may apply a micro bevel that should help the durability and longevity of the edge while retaining the sharpness.

You may get by with just stropping the edge, and not going with stones.  That can do wonders to ma…[Read more]

Maybe send this for a gift

They shouldn’t tear up the knives too bad using it for touch ups.  If used properly and sparingly.