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S90V

Recent Forums Wicked Edge GO S90V

This topic contains 20 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Steve Petty 05/12/2019 at 10:38 pm.

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  • #50463

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    I recently got a Benchmade 940-1 with S90V steel that I’m using as my EDC. I work in an office and rarely use it for anything other than opening a package sometimes. I’m wondering what the best practice would be to maintain the sharp edge with S90V? I know it’s harder to sharpen but holds an edge longer. So was wondering if I should just hit it with 1000 or 1500 grit diamond stones every once in a while to keep it sharp. I”m new to this so looking for recommendations. Thanks in advance!

    Steve

    • This topic was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by  Steve Petty.
    #50466

    airscapes
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 183

    Hi Steve! Newish guy here.  Use the finest stone that will provide the results you are looking for with minimal work.  Depends on how dull it is.. Inspect the edge with a scope or loop.  If no chips then start with 1500 and see if that will bring it back with a 8 or 10 passes.  If not working out, drop down to a 1000.  Less metal removed the better.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #50467

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1855

    Steve I like using the lightest grit you can get by with, like airscapes wrote.  Using the fine grit stones at about 20º per side may apply a micro bevel that should help the durability and longevity of the edge while retaining the sharpness.

    You may get by with just stropping the edge, and not going with stones.  That can do wonders to maintain an edge between sharpenings, also.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    #50468

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    Okay, thanks for the tips. I haven’t bought any strop blocks for it yet. I did order some 9 Micron Diamond Lapping Film  for the glass side of the 1500 grit blocks i have. They should be here next week. I do have a kangaroo strop on a wood block made for free hand stropping just haven’t gotten anything for the WE yet.

    Also with what I have now the 200/600, 800/1000, and 1500/glass (and 9 Micron Diamond Lapping Film ), if you had those and could only get one more pair for now which set of strops would you purchase?

     

    • This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by  Steve Petty.
    #50470

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1855

    Steve, you can use your kangaroo strop, free hand, to maintain the edge between sharpening.  My favorite and most used W. E. Strop pair is the 4µ/2µ Diamond Emulsion on leather.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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    #50471

    Readheads
    Participant
    • Topics: 20
    • Replies: 235

    Keep in mind that the first time any knife is put in a WEPS you need to document it with the AAG and establish the WEPS apex profile. This usually means changing the factory profile a bit because IMO it is impossible to duplicate the exact original profile. Neglecting this will diminish your ability to reach perfect apex (full burr) and ultimate sharpness depending on your final grit used.

    #50472

    airscapes
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 183

    steve you may want a sheet of the 6 micron .. it works just fine after the 1500 grit and before the strop.  The 9 should be fin.. not a big spread between 6 and 9 🙂

    Here is an edge done to 6 micron then through the strops down to .5  My 100 grit stone is still a bit rough..

    S20190510_0006
    S20190510_0010

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    #50490

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    May I ask what you guys use to inspect the blade edge with so close?

     

    Thanks,
    Steve

    #50491

    airscapes
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 183

    USB microscope. I have this inexpensive model that does what i need it to do, also great on the lower magnification for removing splinters!

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XNYXQHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    #50492

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    Thanks for the link. I’ll have to get me one of those.

     

    #50493

    Expidia
    Participant
    • Topics: 39
    • Replies: 276

    Steve, I’d start with a $7-10 lighted 10x loupe available on Amazon.  I also tried a $100 USB digital microscope, but returned it as this $34 one works just as good.  problem with these microscopes is you need a windows laptop or desktop to use them.   I use it without the base.  But get a loupe first as I use that with all of my sharpening sessions.

    Paul

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    #50495

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    I was able to get a pretty good edge on this cheap $5 knife from walmart. This is finishing with the 9 micron diamond lapping film. I’m practicing on cheap knives before I try out the WE on my expensive knives. lol .Thanks for everyone’s advise!

     

     

    • This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by  Steve Petty.
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    #50498

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1855

    Steve, applying a marker to your knife edge, (I like red because it’s easy to see), will allow you to see exactly where your stones are impacting your knife’s edge and removing steel, as it removes the markings.  This will allow you to better adjust your sharpening angle to match your bevels for effectiveness.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #50499

    Steve Petty
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 11

    Appreciate it and yeah I had marked the bevel with the black sharpie that came with the WE. I had to adjust the angle a few times to get it to remove all the marker. So I’m learning. lol.

    #50500

    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 58
    • Replies: 1855

    You’re looking for that single position and angle setting that removes all the marker across the entire height of the bevel.  Understand that this is dependent on the clamping position of the knife.  If the knife isn’t positioned correctly no matter how you adjust the angle you’ll never make full bevel contact. Where the knife is best positioned for the most effective contact is ” the sweet spot”.  The extremities of the knife, the heel and the tip can pose the most difficulties.  Somtimes you’ll need to rotate the knife tip up or tip down and move it forward or backwards to achieve this best position.   Then the first time you sharpen the blade it still will require some profiling, that is some minor steel removal, to better shape the knife blade profile to match sharpening with the fixed angle sharpening wicked edge system.

    There’s a lot of good information about this in the W.E. knowledge base.  I invite you to read my thread on “finding the sweet spot” also.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-It)

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