Chazz

Are you talking about a butterfly knife, where the handle splits and folds oppositely to expose the center blade?

Try just holding the scissors in you fingers to orient the bevel in a position relative to the sharpening stone.  Move the hand held scissors in relation to the paddle.  Flip the scissors over and all around till you find a position that allows you to work with them.  Lay the stone against the scissor edge while you hold the scissors in your ha…[Read more]

You may need to flop the scissors over so what is now facing down is instead facing up and the point is towards you.  Then the scissors will be held a different angle relative to the guide rods.  This will give you different angle combinations to work with.  Between clamping the scissors differently, one side up or the other, and changing the ad…[Read more]

Richard, can you move the scissors closer to you so the clamp is holding the blade in the tip of the adapter instead holding the center body of the scissors.  This will change the slant of the scissors.  Then try to work with that.

By clamping the scissor by the blade you may be able to better work with the angle on the blade and let it work w…[Read more]

Scissors are a strange beast.  The designs are all over the place.  I found using the adapter it take some improvising to make it work for me with some scissor designs.  If you could post a picture to actually illustrate your set-up/clamping configuration it may help us to help you.  Based on your explanation, I suggest you insert some sort of fla…[Read more]

I agree with dulledge.  You can, though, have a combination of a very fine sharp cutting edge with some very fine toothiness for slicing.  A balance.

Even 3000 grit stones used edge leading can leave a micro toothy edge.

I have adjusted the focus rings on my scopes to fine focus on the high power range with the scope positioned against the knife’s edge, on the bevel side, where I use it when viewing the bevel.  Then I wrapped the focus ring with silver aluminum tape to hold the ring in position.  Any fine focus adjustments from that point I can make simply by s…[Read more]

Try to make sure the glass surface is cleaned and dust free before adhering the lapping films.  A single spec of dust can make a tiny bump in the film’s surface that may effect how the film works.

Strops are always the last step for me.  I finish every sharpening and polishing progression with the strops.

Thomas, this is from the W.E. website “Knowledge Base”.

Please check it out: https://support.wickededgeusa.com/portal/kb/articles/lapping-films-what-they-are-and-how-to-use-them

It’s not too bad.  Everything only fits together one way.  You do have to remove the vise from the mounting base to access the four screws in the vises base plate.  There are no springs so pieces will not spring out and go flying.  Work on a towel or rag to catch parts and keep them from getting lost.  The whole process only takes a few minu…[Read more]

here’s Ed K’s set-up for the Gen 3 Pro:

Ed K is forum member: NotSharpEnuff

Do you think that?  This pictures before I got the 1500/ 2200/ and 3000 grit diamond stones!

Opening the vise and cleaning out the steel dust off the parts will bring back the motion you expect.  I’d also use a dry wax lubricant made for bicycles for my vises.  I do this about twice a year as a regular maintenance practice or sooner when needed.  I haven’t found the need to remove any washers and I have and use regularly four different W.…[Read more]

Strops IMO will enhance any edge sharpness as a final step in your sharpening progression, for whatever stone grit you choose to end your sharpening with.  I’d get and use the strops first.  I’d start with the 4µ/2µ strop pair.  You’ll see a real enhancement to your sharpened edges with the strops.  Be aware the strops have a learning curve unto…[Read more]

I agree with Alan 100% if your only looking at the edge from a utility or practical point of view.  Yes 600 grit or 800 grit will yield all that is needed for a basically sharp cutting toothy edge when applied properly.

An edge sharpened to a finer grit will have a more precise and thinner apex and will be measurably sharper.  A simple ana…[Read more]

BTW, I only zero the angle cube at the very beginning of the sharpening session.  Then not again, till another, or different knife.

My theory is that helps overcomes any inconsistencies seen in mounting or plate thickness or plastic paddle molding seen from stone to stone.  It’s usually only a very slight micro-angle adjustment.  Only on one stone, my 800/1000 is it the same from side to side.  Every other pair requires fine tuning.

I suggest you try different things and look at the visual results with the USB scope.  Be systematic about it so you can keep track of cause and effect.  Do it one way on both knife sides.  Make subtle pressure and finger position changes and look at the effect or results in the scratch pattern. Do it slowly and systematically enough that you ca…[Read more]

Richard, I found I did the same thing when I was just getting started.  My technique has improved so I don’t see those drastic scratch differences any longer.  I found, for me it was a pressure related and hand and finger position on the paddles related result.  When I found a single hand and finger position that I used comfortably for all my di…[Read more]