Chazz

That’s a nice looking knife, especially at an inexpensive price point.  The combination of these different edge profiles and angles adds to the interesting quality of this EDC knife.  IMO, to ignore the edge break and round it over as if it was a long continuous belly takes away from the character, interest and function of this knife.

Without h…[Read more]

As I’ve written, I’m not proponent of switching back and forth between stone mediums.

To go from a diamond stone that imparts a scratch pattern in the bevel we’re sharpening, with just the points of the diamond grit particlles, contacting the bevel steel, then to a ceramic medium that works by making a broader full surface contact that flattens,…[Read more]

I share this opinion.  My personal preference too, between the ceramics is the microfine: 1.4 micron/ 0.6 microns, over the superfine: 1200/1600  grits.

I didn’t mention these in my post above since you only offered the 1200/1600 grit ceramics in your options.

I’m up for the opportunity.  Thanks…

Please include your clamping/positioning settings and indicate which alignment guide you employed to set it up and the bevel angle you prefer I profile it with.

FYI: I will be using the “no longer produced” Shapton Glass Stones, whetstones.  Is that an issue?

Ed di you ever sharpen the S110V with the Shapton Whetsone progression, edge leading only.  I use a mostly perpendicular sharpening angle.  I’d love to know if that would help with the chip out issue with the diamond stones.  I use only whetstones to sharpen all of my very hery hard chip prone steels now, with good results, where I had sh…[Read more]

I’d recommend you stay with the diamonds.  I’ve never been a big fan or proponent of using the ceramics.  When they were first released they were the pretty much the only option we had, to use for refining thefurther after 1000 grit sharpened edge.  They were all we had.  Now with the production and release of the 1500, 2200 and 3000, we have thi…[Read more]

James, the newest version W.E. plastic paddles are a two piece paddle, glued together, clam-shell like.  I also use a bronze brush run through the bore holes to remove any excess glue, extruded from the assembly process.  Some new paddles bind or don’t slide freely, on the guide rods.  The bronze brush removes this glue, well, and resolves that issue.

The damage I see that is almost reminiscent of a serrated edge in the close-up photo above is a badly rolled edge.  You can see the steel with the half circle curves with the knife edge collapsed in the backround. The other damage forward of the solid bolstered spine appears the knife steel has folded or collapsed under the pressure of use.

This…[Read more]

Each sharpening medium, whether using diamond stones, ceramic stones, lapping films or whetstones imparts a different character scratch pattern but which is consistent within the grit progressions in those individual mediums.  In the situation you’re discussing, that is wanting to sharpen to a finer, more refined grit level.  I suggest you stick w…[Read more]

Welcome LoneWoodsman,  the WE130 is a great model, my favorite.  It can sharpen a wide variety of knife styles and sizes well.

The Skandi grind knife can be a difficult knife to sharpen, even for experienced W.E. users.  Like tcmeyer stated it may require extra care, techniques and knowledge at times and may/probably will require the use of a W.…[Read more]

Strop covers are now available from forum member airscapes. Here is the link to that recent forum post and another recent post for those and other popular accessories

For steel that hard and brittle, I prefer to sharpen with Whetstones.  I use Shaptons Whetstones.

Just to be clear, I only apply the dry lubricant for the inside moving parts in the W.E. vises and for the ball ends.  Not on the boot covers or any rubber or plastic parts.

I do want to say that I prefer to do it differently.

I begin each grit in the sharpening progression with a scrubbing stroke.  This is up-down-up-down as I work the stone along the entire knife bevel length, heel to tip, up and back.  I work the sides one handed, individually.  I balance my effort and time switching/alternaing between the kn…[Read more]

Chris, This latest episode the posts are making it to the forum.  These posts were posted and were read for some time before they became hidden.  It was not immediate or automatic.

To change the direction of the scratch pattern start the first stroke with the stone direction of motion from the knife heel traveling across the knife towards the tip. The next scratch pattern I start with the stone at the knife tip then traveling across the knife to the heel.  This will make a cross hatch pattern when both strokes are done edge…[Read more]

Every Shun I’ve sharpened and everything I’ve read about Shuns, when researching them, says the factory bevel is 16 dps.  They do not have a micro-bevel from factory.  The edges though are very thin at the tip portion and the bevels although at 16 degrees appear very small, almost tiny, resembling some micro-bevels, they’re that small.

It takes v…[Read more]

Most of us used various methods to sharpen our knives before we came to buy our Wicked Edges.  I venture to guess we sharpen knives as much because we like to have a sharp knife, to use, as we like to sharpen knives just for the enjoyment.  Many of us came to buy our Wicked Edge sharpeners because we enjoy using the this and other knife s…[Read more]

The primary interest, task and goal of myself and many of us that have continued to stay plugged in and partcipate in this W.E. Forum is to answer technique questions presented by new users to W.E. Sharpeners to help them become succesful W.E. users.   The suggestions we make are those that help these new users learn how to use their W.E. s…[Read more]

Yes the strop set pictured.

Yes lower the angle between 1-2º.