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How far do you drop back in grits when renewing an edge ?

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  • #53115
    Expidia
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    • Topics: 43
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    With my kitchen knives I tend to drop back to 800 and go up through the 1500 grit.  First time I reprofile a kitchen knife though I do go through my normal grit progression right up through stropping as I like all my knives to have a showy mirrored edge.  So which grit do some of you here in the forum drop back to renew the edge later on when it needs sharpening?  I do extend the time between sharpenings as soon as the edge does not pass the sticky thumbnail test (which I picked up from a member here).  As soon as an edge slides off my thumbnail I give it a few swipes on my ceramic kitchen steel and the edge sticks again.  Thats good for a few times but eventually I have to WE it again as the super sharp edge has worn away again.

    As to my folders, my Benchmade Emissary that I use on vacations was not passing the sticky thumbnail test so I mounted it in the WE and started at 800 up through the ceramics.  Came out WORSE then when I initially tested it on my thumbnail.  So I got ticked off that I spent all that time through the grit progression only to have the finished product duller than when I started.

    I dropped back to the 400 grit, raised a burr and progressed up through the DLP’s this time.  It came out very sharp.

    If I only drop back to 800 it seems to me that would take a long time to raise a burr each time that I’m just refreshing the edge.

    What say you?

    And thanks for any of your tips to my above questions as to what your method is.

    Paul

    #53117
    Organic
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    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 902

    I’ll use anything from 400 all the way up to the 1.4 micron ceramic as a starting point for resharpening a knife. It all depends on how the edge looks and if there are any micro chips I want to get rid of. Like you, I have found that the 800 grit is often a good grit if the edge is in average shape. If it is needing work then the 400 or 600 will get it done. If the edge is in very good shape and I’m just being an edge snob then the 1.4  / o.6 micron ceramics will restore that hair whittling edge.

    I keep a spiral bound notebook with all of my advanced alignment guide positions and degree settings for each knife that I sharpen, so matching the previous bevels is easy. Once I’ve got the knife clamped I always verify that the stones are hitting the apex with a sharpie and a magnifying device. If there’s even a hint of sharpie left at the edge then I know I need to move those micro adjusters just a bit.

    #53118
    Expidia
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    • Topics: 43
    • Replies: 295

    Thats a good idea Organic.  Using the sharpie which I do . . .  but moving the micro adjusters a bit the reach the faint trace of sharpie on the edge of the apex is a great idea.  I always worry I’m removing too much metal when I’m refreshing an edge that I’ve already profiled.  Its frustrating when I can’t seem to apex the edge again to hit that last trace of sharpie so then I wind up repositioning the blade in the clamp which sometimes gives me an unwanted secondary bevel. Moving the micro adjustment a tad might get me apexing quicker with 800 and up without having to drop back down to coarser grits again.

    Thx I’ll try that on my next edge refresh.

    #53119
    Expidia
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    • Topics: 43
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    Found this Youtube vid by Clay the owner of the Wicked Edge system that he did 3 years ago.  Funny, the first comment was asking him to do another vid showing how he touches up a knife that was already sharpened on the system . . .

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNWYEJ-ksdo

    This was the first comment after the vid from someone
    “Love it, can you make a video on maintaining an already sharp knife to keep it sharp”.  Clay’s response was that he would do another vid.
    I’ll look around for that follow up vid if Clay did one.   This was my original question above on what method users use to touch up an edge!
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