Bill Kirkley

I will try an edited video again.

Somehow the photos didn’t make it!

I may be missing something, but a simple solution is to add a nut and tighten it against the hex key.

Interesting. Thanks.

I have been under the impression that a steel has nothing to do with sharpening. It merely straightens the edge which bends over with use.

As tcmeyer pointed out, in the past people have had a variant of 1/2 degree and ended up with a good result.

As the attached photo illustrates if your secondary bevel is 1/16″ and you are off one degree between stones you only have to remove .001″ material to creat a burr if you are off – 1 degree. If you are off + 1 degree you would get a burr…[Read more]

I don’t have the Tormek. I wasn’t aware of it when I researched and ultimately purchased a WE. If I had it to do over again I’d get the Tormek for the following reasons.

1. It’s quicker, and gives a good edge.
2. It’s stone will last my lifetime.
3. It’s safer.
4. It will sharpen almost anything.

If you are an edge fanatic and love the act of…[Read more]

Someone may have already suggested this. I “sharpened” a piece of mild steel flat bar to break in my new stones.

Nice job!  You might consider first clamping your blade in one vice, loosen the screws that mount the second vise, clamp the blade in the second vise and finally retighten the mounting screws of the second vise. If you don’t do this, if your vises aren’t perfectly aligned you may deflect the blade when you clamp it in the second vise.

Expedia, I haven’t looked but I don’t know if you can find stainless with a diameter of .257″, although I think tcmeyer may have, judging from an earlier post.

As for rusting, if you are not lubricating your stones with water the tool steel probably wouldn’t rust. A coating of paste wax from time to time may help as well.

Depending on how sharp…[Read more]

tcmeyer. But aren’t steel shafts smooth?  I have not seen the new rods. They are described as rippled. One might describe a round file as rippled.  It would be interesting to post a photo, made with your microscope, of the ripples to see if they are smooth or sharp

If you want slightly larger than .25″ and don’t mind a steel that might rust you can order drill rod in metric or letter sizes.

My WE is several years old. The stones are mounted on plastic. If the current stones are plastic and the new rods “rippled” to the point of vibrating when the stones are used wouldn’t this create wear on the holes in the stones, resulting in a loose fit over time?

Thanks Organic!

I looked at Tom Veff’s video on his serrated edge sharpening rods. His diamond coated rods are a single grit. The WE system goes through a series of grits. Why the difference?

Another advantage of mounting the vise on an x-y table is that it would make sharpening long blades easier. You can move the blade/vise to get to the part of the blade that is  out of reach.

Although mounting your back rod would be a bit tricky.

If you really want to do it I think you could mount your vise on an x-y table and mount your rod on the work table. You would have your rod pivot in one plane only.

Next, as you pointed out, you would need cylindrical stones to slide on the rods.

I don’t think it is doable because of the basic design of the Wickededge. The paddles pivot at a point. For serrations you grind vertical concavities in the blade.

If you have an angle cube it doesn’t matter if the blade is streight. Measure the angle on each side. 5 degrees on the right and 1 degree on the left in the attached drawing. I hope the attached drawing explains how you angle your right stone 22 degrees and the left stone 18 degrees to sharpen 20 degrees per side.