Baxsin

Michael what kind of steel?  Can you post photograph?  Which model?

My Shun Classic 7” Santoku is VG10 Damascus.  It is hard, not very thin and not flexible at all.  I’d think mine would break/snap before it would bend straight.  If you heated it, it would probably disrupt the hardening.

If it’s a current model and not in too awful shape maybe [Read more]

I remember reading similar questions in the past.  I don’t remember anyone ever sharing they did it with their experiences.

I will say this ,we paid a good couple $$s for a WEPS  that means Wicked Edge “Precision Sharpener”.  The Wicked Edge diamond stones are really high quality, precise, efficient and long lasting.   

I have made modif…[Read more]

I’d thought, if you’d read “The Science of Sharp Article” you would have changed your understanding of the results of using the Ceramic Steel Rod.  Realizing it removed steel and imparted a microbevel and did not, in reality, stand up a rolled edge, you want to use the best ceramic rod method for your Wicked Edge sharpened knife edges.  Waiting t…[Read more]

If your going to use a ceramic steeling rod, which will ultimately remove some edge steel and micro-bevel your Wicked Edge profiled knives.  Then at least do it in a predictable and consistent manner.  Using a Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker ceramic rods or a Lansky’s Turn-Box ceramic rods would certainly allow this.  The Spyderco model even al…[Read more]

Since you read the “Science of Sharp” article…

Read this article: “Maximizing Edge Retention”   It may change your outlook on sharpening to the wider bevel angle.  It some cases that may prove counterproductive to edge retention.  By looking to go wider to overcome edge roll, your also starting with a wider more blunt apex requiring more for…[Read more]

Bob, you still have more sharpenings to put the stones through before they are fully broken-in.  I think you’re doing yourself and your stones an injustice by not using each grit to it’s fullest before moving on to the next grit.  The coarser stones are the tougher stones to break-in requiring more time. The finer grits will break-in fairly q…[Read more]

Bob Harvey, welcome to the forum.   Stating you’re new at this, how many knives have you sharpened with your Wicked Edge?

I was reminded by a Forum contributor about this article from “Science of Sharp”, What does Steeling Do

discusses the use of Steels and Ceramics in great detail with micro-photographs and concludes that edge steel is removed and a microbevel is formed.

I believe using a ceramic rod is a quick easy remedy for a rolled knife edge to allowed continued use until it can be sharpened; a band-aid.

Some ceramics are quite aggressive. Improper use or use at the wrong angle will in essence apply a micro bevel and as Tom Blodgett stated in the Jende Industries video it can remove a lot of steel resulting…[Read more]

Please don’t misunderstand, “expidia’s” sighting my name, posting the Youtube video on steeling and the link to Jende Industries Ceramics, in the other thread, to suggest, imply or mean I agree or suggest the use of ceramic rods for his rolled edge dilemma.  I do not suggest or believe the way to go with a rolled edge is to use a ceramic r…[Read more]

Jende sells ceramice rods, separately and this set.  

Here’s Tom’s Youtube on them:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FutZJATpFWo

I don’t believe Wicked Edge offers a riser block alone, only as part of an upgrade kit.  My block was a part I had no longer needed from a previous upgrade for the standard vise set-up pre-2016.

I just looked at some pictures I took of my modded/ upgraded WE130 with the riser block.  I am able to achieve angles down to around 8º per side with a tall Japanese Chef’s knives, with only the riser block, not with the low angle adapter, (LAA).

Jeff, l have installed a riser block, (the old style square riser block) with my WE130 and also with my Gen 3 Pro.  Both set-ups use the lastest Gen 3 vises with the tension adjuster and split jaws.

The riser block does allow you to achieve lower angle settings.  Maybe not as low as 12 dps.  That depends on how tall the knives are. Also you ca…[Read more]

The scissor adapter is helpful and useful tool to hold scissors in a position to allow sharpening them with the Wicked Edge.  There are many, many different scissor size, designs and shapes.  The adapter for me is an intuitive tool.  I had to figure out how to clamp the several different scissors I sharpened in a way that held them positioned wh…[Read more]

Tom I believe the number 15RC is a model indicator rather then a hardness indicator, after looking at images of Puma Folding Knives I saw one was labeled 105RC and there is not a steel that hard.

Exactly, I would just ignore the primary grind and sharpen it as if it was not there.  Like any other knife.

Ah, you were holding back.  The single grind is only evident in the first photos after seeing the better, closer up photos in your second post, and knowing where to look for it.  I made a assumption from a glance.  I didn’t know you knew the brand and had other pictures of similar knives.

That being said I stick by my story…it is an old kn…[Read more]

It appears it’s an antique filet knife.  Like something I found in my grandmothers kitchen drawer 50 years ago.  I would take any edge profile you see with a grain of salt.  There’s no telling what that oldie’s been through.  I’m guessing it is stainless steel, otherwise the blade would probably be black with patina.

I’d profile it at (50/50) eve…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, Anthony.