Advanced Search

multiple problems with wicked edge gen pro 3

Recent Forums Main Forum multiple problems with wicked edge gen pro 3

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 26 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #56091
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    Hello I am from Germany and few days ago my WE gen 3 pro arrived from US. I don´t know how to post pictures so i must described my problems best i can. Which is not a lot.

    Stone holders standard which came with WE gen 3 pro , both have thread problems they just cannot be installed properly, on left side i have 4 threads hanging out and right side 2 threads.

    The screw which goes in Lever for clamping is like banana bent i found it under 800# stone.

    Arms which in previous models had a screw on both sides for tightening and on new models from 2017 does not have. How should I tighten arms because they wiggle, namely left side more than the right side.

    So the first question I have is that something that would make problem for sharpening on Wicked Edge gen 3 pro?

    And worst of all after drooling 2 years for this system I finally got it. And now I can not sharpen simple kitchen knife on it.

    Till now I have used Naniwa Professional series splash and go 400# 800# 3000# and 5000# and a strop. So I am not a complete beginner in sharpening world but in world of WE I am beginner, and I am just amazed how much is complicated to sharpen on it.

    I thought that i will find an angle and just make a burr than work other side and switch stones until i have been satisfied. And after I 10  times tried to sharpen, they are not even paper sharp. Like they are tearing the paper.

    Stones are, I assume,  still not completely “broken”

    My second question can anyone help me to learn how to sharpen via this system ? I have watched numerous videos about this but I am still getting bad results.

    thanks in advance everyone 🙂

    #56093
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    Welcome to the forum ” the crazy pirate”

    Photos would be very helpful to see what you describe.

    Save digital photo files you take to the device you are using to participate on the forum.

    Click “Select File” button down below on left.  Browse your device for photo file, click to attach.  Click “Add another file” to browse, find and attach additional photos.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #56095
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    Thank you for instructions how to put pictures out 🙂

    I hope that you can see what I talk about.

    Attachments:
    #56100
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    And my WE gen 3 pro 🙂

    Attachments:
    #56104
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    Wow, that’s really a bent screw.  Wicked Edge will replace it.  Call or submit a service ticket.  The bent screw is US Standard thread 1/4-28″.  You may be able to find in Germany a hex head 1/4-28 bolt to use until you can get the proper replacement with the knurled knob end from W.E.

    The difference in exposed threads on the two guide rods will not affect angle settings or how well the W.E. sharpens in any way. The rods need to be threaded in tight enough that the rods are tight into the ball ends.  You could try to clean the threads out on the female threaded socket ends to help the rod to screw down in deeper.  I believe that thread size is 1/4-20″ on the guide rods if you want to try to use a threaded tapon the socket end threads.

    It may take you 10 to 15 knives to break in the sharpening stones well before you see better results.  It’ll take about that same time to learn the basics to using your Gen 3 Pro.  The amount of work you put into sharpening each knife and the attention to the quality of this work is reflected in the knife’s sharpness.

    Your sharpening strokes along the entire knife edge must reach nnd meet precisely at the apex, that is, the knife edge, on both sides of the knife to produce a sharp knife.  A burr formed and felt at the knife edge is the physical proof that you are apexing the knife edge. How close the two bevel sides meet at the apex, that is the keenness of the knife edge, will directly effect the sharpness.  The bevel angles you choose to apply is set first with the single center angle adjuster lever and then more precisely with the micro-adjusters in the brackets on each side.

    The angles inscribed on the Gen 3 Pro blue base are just an angle indicator to get you close to your chosen angles settings. First use the center lever to make the approximate gross angle adjustment settings. Then second for better precision a magnetic digital angle cube placed resting on your sharpening stones can be used to measure and make fine or micro-angle adjustments very closely. The micro-angle adjusters screws on the inside of the black end brackets are rotated inward or outward with the screw’s knurled thumb wheels to achieve your desired angle settings.  Each side guide rods, left and right are adjusted separately, first one then the other.   Then the adjustments are locked independently by screwing the outer thumb knob screw in tightly against the inside adjuster screws so the two screw ends jam tightly together,  against each other, inside the threaded holes they are screwed into, that run through the black end brackets.

    A digital angle cube and a USB microscope are helpful tools or accessories many of us use to produce good and repeatably sharp results.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #56106
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    Here’s a couple YouTube videos you should find helpful.

    This first one should explain how to operate the Gen 3 Pro

    This second video explains some common sharpening strokes and how to use them.  Don’t worry that the model sharpener he uses is not the Gen 3 Pro.  All sharpening strokes he explains can be used on any W.E. model sharpener.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #56109
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    Thanks for video links, this about strokes could prove useful Im going to try later to make like that guy.

    How much strokes do you think i need like 400# 50x and than 600# 100x ? 800# 150x and 1000# 200 times ?

    I have angle cube and angle is about 1 degree of differences, but im pretty sure when I sharpen on water stones I can not get that accurately and still I manage to get razor sharp.

    Also I have microscope usb type, I`ve seen my blade and it has deep scratches on few parts but seems to me that diamond stone can not get in few spots as well it can in others.

     

    #56110
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    First thing is, you need to clamp your knife in a position that allows your sharpening stones to reaMIch the knife edge completely and efficiently.   This position is called the “sweet spot”.  Read the first post at the very top of this page and the knowledge base article on  sweet spot and clamping positions.

    The amount of strokes I use with each grit stone is based on the results I get and see, and I don’t do it simply by counting the strokes.   I use the USB scope to inspect the quality of my progress throughout the entire sharpening process.  My goal is to produce a similarly even appearing scratch pattern all across the knife edge on both sides and a burr, before I move on to the next grit.  I do this using a combination of different sharpening strokes. This is done in a way to make the scratches consistent, even appearing and parallel all across the knife edge and on both sides of the knife.

    The first stones used, the coarsest stone used, is to set the edge angle profiles of the bevels, and the shape of the bevels and to form the burr.  The quality of these first established bevels will effect the overall results so take your time and do it well.  Each of the finer grit stones in your sharpening progression are to improve and refine the quality and the smoothness of the bevels and their intersection at the knife edge.  The keener the bevels intersect at the apex, the sharper the knife will be.

    It doesn’t matter that the angle your Gen 3 Pro center lever is pointed at is off from the measured angle on your cube.  What matters is that each bevel angles are at the angle you want to use when measured with your properly zeroed angle cube.  These bevel angles must remain consistently at this set angle throughout the entire sharpening process.  Many of us check the angles with the cube to verify it is staying set correctly, and make any necessary adjustments with each and every grit change throughout the process.  It is also prudent to repeatedly spot check the guide rod adjuster screws and the rods themselves during your sharpening process to make sure the screws and rods are staying tight and the angle setting is remaining constant. Also, it is just as important that the knife’s clamped position never moves or shifts throughout the entire sharpening process.

    I set the sharpening stones angles at the start of each and every grit I use with the angle cube.  I do not try to measure the resulting bevel angles after using that grit stone.  This will drive you crazy if the angles before and the angles after finishing with that grit stone, don’t measure at the same angle, with the cube.  For me the truer test is that the scratch patterns from each next finer grit sharpening stones, matches the previous scratch pattern and superimposes right on top of it.  Each and every grit should be consistently like this.  If it doesn’t match up that way, check your angle settings and check that nothing has come loose, such as the angle adjusters or the knife.

    It is very important for consistency how you hold the sharpening stones.  That is, where you place your fingers on the stone and how you hold it, along with the amount of pressure you apply through the stones against the knife.  This will effect the quality of your scratch pattern on the bevels and where the scratches are applied to the bevel.  Pay attention not to let your fingers dangle down to bump against the sharpened knife edge.  Especially when using the edge-leading sharpening strokes. You will get cut! Safety is foremost.  Listen to sound made when sharpening.  It’ll be a rough, lower and scratchy sound to begin with. It becomes a cleaner higher pitched and less scratchy sound when you are getting closer to being done with that grit stone.

    The quality of your results depend on every part of the process being consistent. I repeat these same processes over, again and again, grit after grit, as the bevels become smoother and more refined as the scratches appear finer and smaller.  Again, I continuously visually spot check my work with the USB scope for quality, consistency and continued improvement.  I use each finer grit stone’s scratch pattern long enough to over scratch the previous coarser grit’s larger scratches.  When these smaller finer scratches obliterate the previous larger deeper scratches with an even uniform scratch pattern it’s time to step up to the next finer grit.

    I am also repeatedly feeling the clamped knife edge for improved sharpness from the very first apex formed with the first coarsest grit, and throughout the process with each and every finer grit thereafter.  With the finer grits as the edge feels markedly sharp, I hold a small strip of newspaper in my fingertips on either side of the knife edge, then pull it down onto the sharpened clamped knife’s edge to feel for sharpness based on how well the paper is cut.  It will noticeable improve how well it cuts the newspaper as the edge sharpness continues to get sharper.

    The combination of different sharpening strokes and sharpening stroke directions is your choice.  The way you choose to use the strokes together and the combination is what I call the sharpening routine or sharpening technique.  I work with a repetitious routine,  again and again, the same order, grit after grit.  I do use alternating side, (left side, right side, left side, right side), edge leading strokes, (that is down and onto or down and against) the exposed knife edge, as my final sharpening stroke with each subsequent finer grit, in my sharpening routine.  This is intended to remove any burr or wire edge formed with each grit and to expose the edge’s sharpness.

    I pay particular attention to maintain a more perpendicular-like stroke direction relative to the knife edge. I prefer not use a single continuous sweeping, longitudinal stroke, down across the full length of the knife.  Unless the knife edge is fairly short.  This is because I’m unable to maintain a more perpendicular stroke direction using the long sweeping stroke.  This is my individual preference.  Others have their own routine that they find works well for them.  With time and practice, some trial and error, you’ll put together your own technique.

    I finish off each sharpening session with at least a two grit, edge trailing, (up and off or up and away) stropping progression, I prefer to use the 4µ/2µ on leather, strop pair.  This stropping strokes I do at a 1° more acute angle setting,  That is 1° lower angle than the sharpening angle I had used.  This helps to avoid rounding over the sharpened knife edge with the softer compressible strops.  More decreasing grit strops used together in a larger stropping progression should improve your edge’s polished appearance and smoothness of the sharpened edge so it cuts and slices better.

    Attention to detail, effort extended, repetition and consistency is the key to using any W.E. well.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #56111
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    “pirate”, I suggest you take the time to read the forum Recent”page posts.  These threads I’ve linked here are really a compilation of helpful discussions on issues facing many new if not, every W.E. users.  There is some repetition and overlap in subject matter and discussions.  Many of the answers are similar because these issues are resolved the same way and they come up when doing a similar process, sharpening a knife with a W.E. sharpener.  Still, the repetition may help to make it more clear and easier to understand.  Even if the users have a different model W.E. sharpener, then your model, it doesn’t matter.  These sharpeners are all used basically the same way while trying to achieve the same results.  Sharpening knives on W.E. sharpeners.

    Pointers for my Tips?

    Digital angle measurement

    2016 Pro Pack 1

    Freshening kitchen knife edges. . . .

    Larger Right Bevel

    This next link is to an older post brought forward again by an interested, newer forum member.  The subject matter may be a bit involved, technical and hard to follow and understand.  Nonetheless I think it’s worthwhile reading.  The last most recent responses posted to this thread help to show it’s practicality and put it in perspective.

    Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening

    The Dutchman🇳🇱

    YouTube video shows drawing a burr on both sides between each stone

    Reprofile angles don’t match

    Very frustrating. First EDC knife

    New 130 user with questions

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #56117
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    O that is a lot for reading it takes time, but thank you again. I`m sure there is helpful information there.

    And again I tried to make it better, please look pictures is this what I should looking for with 1000# diamond stone?

    Or is this still bad ?

     

    Attachments:
    #56121
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    And these are the latest pictures I have also from 1000# Diamond stone.

    The knife I was trying and still trying to sharpen is cheap 3 euro 20cm chef knife.

    Attachments:
    #56128
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 64
    • Replies: 2474

    Looks good, (especially the last set of 4 photos)…if the scratch patterns appear the same on both sides of the knife it should be good.

    Appearance may not be everything.  Some terrible looking bevels are really scary sharp.  What matters is how well the bevels intersect at the knife edges.  That is, the keenness of the apex.

    You tell us.  Are you happy with the results? Does the knife feel sharp to you?  Does this knife cut as well as you want it to?

    That’s what matters most!

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #56129
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    I haven’t try to cut yet.  Both sides are in these pictures.

    Here some more pictures looking from above on apex I guess.

    From looking above can we learn something is blade sharpen in proper way or not ?

    Do you have some advice on what kind of paper I should try cutting ? Maybe phone book paper ?

     

    Attachments:
    #56135
    The crazy pirate
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 12

    Satisfied? That’s hard to say because in start it was terrible and yes now is much better, there is almost no tearing pretty good cut,clean no fibers sticking, but there are few spots where it cuts better than on others. It needs to be better from that or just I want to be better at that.

    I’ve read all links you have gave me, they are useful.

    Tomorrow I will try again to sharpen maybe I can achieve even better results than today.

    Can you tell me more how to achieve or put a link about the keenness of the apex ?

     

    #56141
    Richard
    Participant
    • Topics: 13
    • Replies: 175

    Guten tag Pirate and welcome to the forum. Yes, phone book paper is an excellent media to measure your edge with. In the videos that Clay demonstrates his techniques on, he uses printer paper which is fine and maybe that’s where you want to start. A 1000 grit edge should scream through printer paper, then progress to the phone book paper since it’s even thinner.

    Also the Pic-A and Pic-B look really good. Are you shining an LED light on the edge for a reflection?

    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by Richard.
Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 26 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.