multiple problems with wicked edge gen pro 3

Welcome to the forum ” the crazy pirate”

Photos would be very helpful to see what you describe.

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Here’s a couple YouTube videos you should find helpful.

This first one should explain how to operate the Gen 3 Pro

This second video explains some common sharpening strokes and how to use them.  Don’t worry that the model sharpener he uses is not the Gen 3 Pro.  All sharpening strokes he explains can be used on any W.E. model sharpener.

First thing is, you need to clamp your knife in a position that allows your sharpening stones to reaMIch the knife edge completely and efficiently.   This position is called the “sweet spot”.  Read the first post at the very top of this page and the knowledge base article on  sweet spot and clamping positions.

The amount of strokes I use with each grit stone is based on the results I get and see, and I don’t do it simply by counting the strokes.   I use the USB scope to inspect the quality of my progress throughout the entire sharpening process.  My goal is to produce a similarly even appearing scratch pattern all across the knife edge on both sides and a burr, before I move on to the next grit.  I do this using a combination of different sharpening strokes. This is done in a way to make the scratches consistent, even appearing and parallel all across the knife edge and on both sides of the knife.

The first stones used, the coarsest stone used, is to set the edge angle profiles of the bevels, and the shape of the bevels and to form the burr.  The quality of these first established bevels will effect the overall results so take your time and do it well.  Each of the finer grit stones in your sharpening progression are to improve and refine the quality and the smoothness of the bevels and their intersection at the knife edge.  The keener the bevels intersect at the apex, the sharper the knife will be.

It doesn’t matter that the angle your Gen 3 Pro center lever is pointed at is off from the measured angle on your cube.  What matters is that each bevel angles are at the angle you want to use when measured with your properly zeroed angle cube.  These bevel angles must remain consistently at this set angle throughout the entire sharpening process.  Many of us check the angles with the cube to verify it is staying set correctly, and make any necessary adjustments with each and every grit change throughout the process.  It is also prudent to repeatedly spot check the guide rod adjuster screws and the rods themselves during your sharpening process to make sure the screws and rods are staying tight and the angle setting is remaining constant. Also, it is just as important that the knife’s clamped position never moves or shifts throughout the entire sharpening process.

I set the sharpening stones angles at the start of each and every grit I use with the angle cube.  I do not try to measure the resulting bevel angles after using that grit stone.  This will drive you crazy if the angles before and the angles after finishing with that grit stone, don’t measure at the same angle, with the cube.  For me the truer test is that the scratch patterns from each next finer grit sharpening stones, matches the previous scratch pattern and superimposes right on top of it.  Each and every grit should be consistently like this.  If it doesn’t match up that way, check your angle settings and check that nothing has come loose, such as the angle adjusters or the knife.

It is very important for consistency how you hold the sharpening stones.  That is, where you place your fingers on the stone and how you hold it, along with the amount of pressure you apply through the stones against the knife.  This will effect the quality of your scratch pattern on the bevels and where the scratches are applied to the bevel.  Pay attention not to let your fingers dangle down to bump against the sharpened knife edge.  Especially when using the edge-leading sharpening strokes. You will get cut! Safety is foremost.  Listen to sound made when sharpening.  It’ll be a rough, lower and scratchy sound to begin with. It becomes a cleaner higher pitched and less scratchy sound when you are getting closer to being done with that grit stone.

The quality of your results depend on every part of the process being consistent. I repeat these same processes over, again and again, grit after grit, as the bevels become smoother and more refined as the scratches appear finer and smaller.  Again, I continuously visually spot check my work with the USB scope for quality, consistency and continued improvement.  I use each finer grit stone’s scratch pattern long enough to over scratch the previous coarser grit’s larger scratches.  When these smaller finer scratches obliterate the previous larger deeper scratches with an even uniform scratch pattern it’s time to step up to the next finer grit.

I am also repeatedly feeling the clamped knife edge for improved sharpness from the very first apex formed with the first coarsest grit, and throughout the process with each and every finer grit thereafter.  With the finer grits as the edge feels markedly sharp, I hold a small strip of newspaper in my fingertips on either side of the knife edge, then pull it down onto the sharpened clamped knife’s edge to feel for sharpness based on how well the paper is cut.  It will noticeable improve how well it cuts the newspaper as the edge sharpness continues to get sharper.

The combination of different sharpening strokes and sharpening stroke directions is your choice.  The way you choose to use the strokes together and the combination is what I call the sharpening routine or sharpening technique.  I work with a repetitious routine,  again and again, the same order, grit after grit.  I do use alternating side, (left side, right side, left side, right side), edge leading strokes, (that is down and onto or down and against) the exposed knife edge, as my final sharpening stroke with each subsequent finer grit, in my sharpening routine.  This is intended to remove any burr or wire edge formed with each grit and to expose the edge’s sharpness.

I pay particular attention to maintain a more perpendicular-like stroke direction relative to the knife edge. I prefer not use a single continuous sweeping, longitudinal stroke, down across the full length of the knife.  Unless the knife edge is fairly short.  This is because I’m unable to maintain a more perpendicular stroke direction using the long sweeping stroke.  This is my individual preference.  Others have their own routine that they find works well for them.  With time and practice, some trial and error, you’ll put together your own technique.

I finish off each sharpening session with at least a two grit, edge trailing, (up and off or up and away) stropping progression, I prefer to use the 4µ/2µ on leather, strop pair.  This stropping strokes I do at a 1° more acute angle setting,  That is 1° lower angle than the sharpening angle I had used.  This helps to avoid rounding over the sharpened knife edge with the softer compressible strops.  More decreasing grit strops used together in a larger stropping progression should improve your edge’s polished appearance and smoothness of the sharpened edge so it cuts and slices better.

Attention to detail, effort extended, repetition and consistency is the key to using any W.E. well.

1 user thanked author for this post.

000Robert

Looks good, (especially the last set of 4 photos)…if the scratch patterns appear the same on both sides of the knife it should be good.

Appearance may not be everything.  Some terrible looking bevels are really scary sharp.  What matters is how well the bevels intersect at the knife edges.  That is, the keenness of the apex.

You tell us.  Are you happy with the results? Does the knife feel sharp to you?  Does this knife cut as well as you want it to?

That’s what matters most!