Marc H

Just remember the W.E. is simply a handtool.  It’s well engineered and precisly machined.  It’s just a stable and sturdy vise, with adjustable angle jig attachments.  It’s up to us, to learn how to operate this handtool to it’s fullest capabilities.  It’s 100% hand-powered, fine tuned and controlled by the users.  The way we choose to use it, …[Read more]

Yes, the slightly oversized paddle holes are perfectly normal.  This is why I stress the importance of finger hold position and applied pressure.  These are within your control. Use them to maintain proper consistent stone-edge contact.  Through repeated trial and error or experimentation with position and pressure, along with frequent visual in…[Read more]

I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “allow the slight play in the hole the guide rod goes in”?  Everything that’s intended to be tight should be used tight.  We don’t want to allow any play where it really shouldn’t be.  We want to hold and use our stones in a manner that’s keeping them stable and positioned as they slide up and down the gu…[Read more]

To add one more thing.  The guide rods only need to be hand tightened into the ball end sockets.  If they become a little loose, maybe backing out a thread or so while you’re sharpening, it won’t effect the angle settings any.  I usually just check the rods regularly as I change grits by spinning the rod to check and tighten them if needed.  If…[Read more]

I want to make this point clear…we’re working with relative angles.  The bevel angles we apply to our knife edges are relative to the zeroed out cube on the W.E. base.  So keeping everything the same, consistent, doing it exactly the same, time and time again, is what’s important.  Applying the same relative angle based off the reading on yo…[Read more]

The stone on the arm is hard to tell, for me.  In your video the way you have the rod arm clamped, the rod arm appears to be moving along with the stone moving.  I can’t distinguish one movement from the other.  Maybe the camera is moving and contributing to the appeared motion, also.

I checked a stone on a guide rod today.  While holding the rod…[Read more]

The cubes I have used time out also and auto turn off. They still keep the “zeroing” in the memory.  As long as you don’t zero the cube again it’ll continue to hold in it’s memory and continue to work with the last zero position.  Check your manual for that cube.  It should hold it’s zero when off.  If not, I’d look to use one that does.

My W.E…[Read more]

The Dxl360S works well for me.  I don’t know whether it’s better then your TB2.  It does have better specs then all the other cubes I’ve used before it.  It’s also is multiaxis.

I check angles and microadjust with every grit…just my preference.

I suggest for accuracy you always position your angle cube on the stones the same, everytime you us…[Read more]

You posted the video while I was posting.  That ball isn’t right. It should be tight and only rotate.  Are both balls bad?  W.E. will replace that with a phone call.

The paddles should have no slop on the guide rods.  They should make a wooshing-like sound while sharpening a knife as the stone slides up and down.

ColbyL,

Did you purchase your “new” WE130 directly from Wicked Edge?

Could you post a photo or two of your setup showing us an end bracket with the ball end and guide rod in place on the square bar.  Also a photo showing any one of your sharpening stones would be helpful.

It’s hard to answer in black and white, do this, then do that, terms.  Just because someone says or writes something is better,, it may not be best for you. Knowing what to use and what to do next for a given circumstance is experience based.  What I like to call “the art of sharpening”.  Until you reach the point in your sharpening experiences to…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum.

I recommend you look first to the “Knowledge Base” for your answers.  There’s a tremendous amount of good helpful information available there.

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Mat.

First, it can take about 10 knives sharpened with each new stone til they’re broken in and begin to yield their best results.  The finer grits will break in sooner with less use.

Ask any experienced W.E. user which grit should I buy next and the answer is more, because eventually you’ll end up with all of…[Read more]

Readheads, just to be clear, Clay and W.E. are always working on and striving to advance and improve the current designs and sharpener models.  He is not currently, actively working to design a new vise and jawset to overcome a holding problem being experienced by W.E. users.  The vice and jawset introduced some years back on this current model G…[Read more]

http://images.app.goo.gl/6zYuAxppKyQg9Dk77

Clay I can say based on the shared experience from the W.E. user to which I gifted my first original Gen 3 vise, the first version released.  That vise version without the tensioner accessory or the split jaws, does not hold a clamped knife as tightly and securely as this current version gen 3 vise does with the split jaw set.  That is, the c…

[Read more]

Clay this is the original thin steel alignment guide, that came with the very first W.E. I started with years ago…a Pro Pack 2 with the Standard Vice WE120 Setup.

This 0.5mm, thin parallel sided strip of steel, clamps and holds tight enough with the early design jaw set, (with the tensioner set to the lightest setting), that I’m able to lift…[Read more]

The pads I circled in red:

Yes and no split down the center. To enhance it’s ability to flex.

Here’s another photo from a different forum member:

Here is the maintenance PDF that clearly shows a jaw set:

https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/app/uploads/2020/10/WEClampCleaning-1-1.pdf