Marc H

Yes it did.  The earlier, 2017 model, Gen 3 Vise used in the WE130 did not have the vise clamping tension adjuster feature.  Around 2017 is when  this new tensioner feature was introduced.  If the set-up has the tension adjuster and a vertical split halfway down the middle of the jaws, then you’ve got the newer 2017 version.

The other dif…[Read more]

I’m trying to help you determine if your sharpening stones are fully or sufficiently broken-in.  The more random rough appearance of each grit’s scratch pattern’s become more uniform, predictable and consistent when they’re broken in.

After starting a knife with your first coarsest stone, can you profile the edge to the bevel angle you want.  T…[Read more]

Like you said, Trevor, it’s hard to say on line.  I’ll try to help.  I’m sorry but I have to start with trying to determine your basic understanding, experience using the WE130 and use of a basic sharpening technique.

I can tell you I see the results of remaining scratch patterns from several previous grits running across and through the knife s…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, Trevor.

It may help us, to help you, if you could provide some basics:

• W.E. Sharpener model?
• Which stones are you using? (For example: the standard W.E. diamond stone set).
• Which grits are you using for your sharpening progression? (Coarsest to finest).
• Are you using any other sharpening or polishing…

[Read more]

Even the diamond lapping films which are a great polishing medium, as fine a grit as they are, (used strictly edge trailing, that is up and away from the edge), can produce a very tiny burr.  (It can be seen with an experienced eye looking at high power with a USB microscope).

This is another reason I always finish with a stropping.

“airscapes” advice is also just as valid.  With more effort and edge refinement done with each and every stone in your sharpening progression, the end results are sharper, smoother and shinier.

Also, by employing alternating side strokes, left-right-left-right, in the edge leading direction, down and onto the edge, you will remove any remnants…[Read more]

There are two reasons to strop.  First to smooth or refine the sharpened edges.  It remove the snags and therefore, improve sharpness.  Second, they polish the bevels through their burnishing effect to improve the mirrored polish.  I use the basic (cow) leather strops.  To smooth, refine and polish my edges they work well, for me.  They do what…[Read more]

Welc9me to the W.E. forum, Mike.

Stropping your sharpened edges will smooth the snags.

I try to look at the belly as a curved section of a ball.  (Like a section of orange peel off a quartered orange).  I try to center the Billy’s curve with the jaws.  For the pictured knife it’s may be slightly forward of the blades center point to the length.

Then working with the depth key pin in the top wholes, with the knife centered to the cu…[Read more]

Also,  you have to work within the limitations of where you can best clamp the knife in the jaw on a flat or smooth spot on the knife.  That and thumb studs may also dictate where you can clamp it.

I’d start by centering the Billy’s curve with the jaws centerline, and rotate the handle down and tip up slightly.

Understand that Josh is a professional sharpener.  What’s acceptable to Clay or me may not be acceptable to Josh.  He’s at a whole ‘nother level then most of us home W.E. users.

My knives are a mix of stainless steel and high carbon non-stainless steels.  They are many different steel types and hardness.  I like variety.  I wanted to experience using the different steels types, how well they cut or slice, held their edges and how easy or difficult they were to sharpen.

By utility knife do you mean Japanese Wa petty kn…[Read more]

I too have several Yaxell knives (Gou).  I have heard of Eden Kanso…I do not own one.  It looks like a nice knife.  There are hundred of brands of very good Japanese Knives.

Here are the brands of some I have pictured:  Yu Kurasaki, Sukenari, Fu-Rin-Ka-Zan, Kagayaki, Masamoto KS, Takeda NAS

You are making this assessment based on very limited experience.  What, one larger chef’s knife and one smaller knife?

The shorter knives are easier to pull your sharpening stones across them.  Often you can do that in one continuous sharpening stroke.  The larger longer knives may require that you sharpen the length in two or three sections wi…[Read more]

I wouldn’t know why a flat diamond stone and a flat ceramic stone would be any different.  They’re shaped the same, just different sharpening mediums.  Unless someone who tried it didn’t experience the quality results they expected.

It sure looks to me that Clay was using a ceramic stone in the video I shared.

I will add this…I believe the bevel angle setting is slightly dynamic.  By that I mean if it changes as Joe is suggesting as steel is removed, over time.  By using a cube to check and micro-angle and adjust with each new grit used you will be starting again with the desired bevel angle setting.  If any variation was caused as a result of the pr…[Read more]

I log my clamping position the first time I sharpen a knife, along with the profile angle used.  A photo is helpful save, too.

For touchups I clamp the knife in that recorded position.  Setting the adjusters at the same angle setting.  I inspect my bevels with a USB microscope.  I’m able to skip using a marker most times..  I can clearly see if I…[Read more]

I would double check the set angles if you changed the profile, when you’re close to done with the first grit.  Then in the event that the steel removed made any difference to the angle setting, you can do a little more stone work to get it where you expect it to be.  That’s when you can visually inspect the bevel heights and adjust them to look h…[Read more]

Welcome to the W.E. forum, Buddy.

I share your sentiment.