Brewbear

Thank you Marc, replied just now!

Your Japanese is better than mine! Thank you for posting your findings, much like you I collect knives I like and the precise Rc rating is not the determining factor. From the little reading I’ve done, Buck has a proprietary (I believe) hardening procedure that they use on their blades.

I believe WE offered a riser block some time ago but I don’t see it available anymore. I wish they’d make it available again, I surely be ordering it. Short of that, maybe one of the gents with 3d printers will take pity on us, the printer challenged ones.

I wouldn’t say it is “idiot roof”, keep in mind there are some very “talented” idiots out there!

Interesting point @OOORobert, I’d be interested in your findings.

I agree with @airscapes, only the apex will do the cutting and finishing the shoulders at different grits is a gimmic at best. Microbevels are a different story all together. They provide a toothier edge while protecting the said edge if you are not using a super steel but prefer an acute sharpening angle. Case in point, one of my knives is VG10…[Read more]

When I reprofile a blade (and I do like 17 or even 15 degree ) I use a scrubbing up/down motion like you do. Where I differ is that I scrub one side and then the other, switching sides before I have a burr. By scrubbing both sides (alternating) you will approach the apex evenly. In my limited experience, scrubbing just one side (going from 20+…[Read more]

I usually sharpen the straight part of the blade and reposition the knife in the vise to sharpen a curved tip end if the curvature is very significant. Sharpening a blade in sections works well for big kitchen knives (or machetes) but you have to remember to blend the sections.

I guess I’m one of those people that likes to fuss over their knives. I sharpen the family kitchen knives to 1000 grit, mostly 20 degrees with a few at 17 degrees. My personal kitchen knives are sharpened at 15 degrees (or less) to 3000 grit and stropping if time permits. It definitely takes longer than 4 minutes per knife since I’m not a slap -…[Read more]

That may be explained by having scratches on top of scratches. If your stones are new, they will be more aggressive. If you follow Kyle’s technique, that will be the end result: a very functional edge without much polish. I’m not sure if you have a micro bevel on your edge but that id besides the point. As the more experienced members here will…[Read more]

I have a set of 50/80 and honestly, I used it twice on a couple of machetes that were so beat up and damaged they couldn’t cut cold water. If space is a problem, then yes, buy a set for those rare occasions when you have to remove a lot of metal, Even then, I wouldn’t apex (raise a burr) with them, just get really close to the apex and then use…[Read more]

DPS= Degrees per side

I never thought of using a ultrasound bath to clean my knifes, I’d be concerned about the edges getting damaged if they touch the bath walls. Then again, that’s why we have a WE system, to fix those edges. I use Kurobara oil to protect my blades in the kitchen and by extension (read lazy… maybe a little) my folding knives as well.

Another thing to consider is setting up the widest blades at the bottom of the vise indent (deeper than the “hole” guides), that would would decrease the height of the blade above the vise jaws and make it a more universal angle for different blade widths. Just a thought!

That’ll work! Good job.

When life gives you lemons, make lemonade…..a couple of tequila shots make it even better! Love the idea but like @MarcH pointed out, I’d be concerned by the change caused in the velcro compression. I guess that a very light tough would minimalize the compression and thusly the angle change. In any case, a very ingenious approach, congrats!

thank you for the great ideas. My solution- after talking to Clay (Wicked edge owner) and at his suggestion – was to apply strips of moleskin to the inside of the vise jaws. This is the stuff I bought and use…[Read more]

I have quite a few pocket knives, from Land 910 to Kershaw to CRK but my last purchases have been Barry Wood MkI and a few Frost Cutlery Barry Wood style knives. The blades are wide enough to sharpen on my WE 130 without any attachments but I bought the Tormek  and it was a good thing since the hand full of Old timers and Schrades have rather…[Read more]

Seems like Kershaw is the “gateway” to this addiction, I started with a Cryo and soon moved up to CRK’s. I have a fixed blade or two, scandi grind, I bought from Finland but right now I spend my time (and money) on Barry Wood knives…

WE 130 is a bit steep in the beginning but the updated vise makes it worth while (IMHO). I was on the fence for a good, long time but reading different threads here I decided to go for broke and bought the WE 130. In addition, I bought the longer (12 inch) rods and a USB microscope. There will probably be other “needs” later on but for now, it…[Read more]