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How does this change of technique sound for improving my results?

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Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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  • #55912
    phillyjudge
    Participant
    • Topics: 21
    • Replies: 63

    Problem: I like my edges way “slicier” (steeper) than most factory edges. I really like 17* with an up to 20* micro-bevel. Several times, mostly with my Hinderers which have a pretty high edge angle and a lot of meat behind the edge, when I re profile them, I get uneven bevels–and it bothers the heck out of me that there isn’t visual symmetry. One bevel wide, the other, not so much. Then I go on a crusade of ever changing bevels as I try to get them even.

    Old technique: Find the sweet spot, zero out, set the angle on each side, lock it all down and then 1) scrub one side (either circular or sort of vertical) at 100 grit until a burr is formed; then switch sides and repeat. Then, I switch to alternating edge trailing sweeping strokes to smooth everything out & pretty everything up, and then progress to step… 2) which is basically the same process until I get to 800 grit, and then it is sweeping strokes only one side until a burr, then the other, then alternating to pretty it all up. During this process, I try to inspect for bevel symmetry, but whether it’s my eyes, my lighting, or whatever, it looks all ok, until the knife is removed from the vice and…. voila…uneven bevels.

    Proposed new technique: To avoid under/over scrubbing–what do you think about this?….With my first grit, use alternating edge trailing sweeping strokes until the sharpie is really gone from the apex, and the knife is starting to feel sharp…THEN switching to one sided sweeping strokes until a burr is formed, then switching sides and doing sweeping strokes until the burr is formed. THEN, alternating strokes again to eliminate the burr and going to the next grit. I think I get into trouble with the one sided scrubbing….I have to think that it will not take many one-sided seeping strokes to draw a burr once I get to that point…

    Thoughts, advice, critique are welcome.

    #55915
    NorCalQ
    Participant
    • Topics: 54
    • Replies: 149

    I’m sure others will chime in who have more experience than I do.  I found that I have greater control and consistency of bevel when I use alternating strokes from beginning to end.  I use the sharpie between grits and make sure that all of the black is gone, right up to the edge.  I use my magnifier to make sure.  I don’t worry about getting a burr.  If I’m really changing the angle, then I’ll scrub only to establish the new angle with a coarse grit.  After that, it’s alternating strokes for the remainder of the grits.

    #55918
    phillyjudge
    Participant
    • Topics: 21
    • Replies: 63

    Thank you for the reply, it’s the scrubbing that I think is causing me the difficulty.

    #55919
    NorCalQ
    Participant
    • Topics: 54
    • Replies: 149

    Using a scope really helped me to be able to see the leftover black on the edge, that was not visible to the eye.  Of course, it also helps me to see that I’ve gotten rid of all prior grit scratch marks.  Good luck.

    #55924
    Brewbear
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 168

    When I reprofile a blade (and I do like 17 or even 15 degree ) I use a scrubbing up/down motion like you do. Where I differ is that I scrub one side and then the other, switching sides before I have a burr. By scrubbing both sides (alternating) you will approach the apex evenly. In my limited experience, scrubbing just one side (going from 20+ degrees to 15 or 17 degrees) until raising a burr on one side only and then switching to the opposite side will tend to yield results similar to yours. Others, more experienced members are sure to chime in so be patient and practice on “el cheapo” knives until you get the results you want.

    #55925
    000Robert
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 341

    I scrub up/down till I get the sides even, and then start working on the burrs.

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