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@uofaengr
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Here are a couple from over the weekend.
The first was a true example of making chicken salad out of chicken (scratch), and I wish I had a before pic. The owner had nearly destroyed the blade with a grinder, and the edge was literally an S. Therefore a decent bit of work was needed just to get a straight and consistent edge. I personally would’ve sent it in for a new blade, but this one has been revived for now.
And another…
I’ve tried different things based on where the knife was finished. I had a PM2 that I sharpened to 15 dps and 0.5 micron and whittled a bunch of wood. The edge got some small rolls in it so I put it back in the vise and started at 5, 3.5, 1, and 0.5 micron and I got my hair whittling edge back with no rolls.
Have also had knives I’ve finished at 1000 grit that were not clean paper slicers after some use. Put it in the vise and only about 5-10 light swipes with the 1000 grit brought it back to original sharpness.
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Just my experience so TIFWIW. After the 1000s I only have the 1200/1600 ceramics along with the 5/3.5 strops and kangaroo strops that I have 1/0.5 CBN spray on. I haven’t polished any of my own blades in awhile as I prefer a toothier edge, and I’ve never lapped my ceramics, just occasionally rub them together.
I have somewhere between 175-200 knives on my stones (I think I need to finally break down and get some new 100/200s) so I have a very very fine finish coming off the 1000 grit. Something I have noticed especially when doing a wider bevel is that even if I use the angle cube on the ceramics to match the angle I’ve been sharpening at, when I match the angle exactly, the ceramics seem to only hit the shoulder portion (upper part of the bevel). It gets very sharp, but only a strip along the shoulder gets polished. I’ve found that in the end, I usually have to widen the angle by about 2 complete turns of the micro adjust to hit the rest of the bevel. Doing this, I’ve been able to achieve better results with my setup. It’s also something to take notice of if you drop your angle 2 degrees to strop and the goal is an extreme polish.
With my setup, the key is spending some quality time on the ceramics making sure the entire bevel is getting attention. I’m sure if I had the 14/10 strops and the micro fine ceramics I could get even better results, but in the end I have to hold the knife under light at a certain angle to see any scratches and they’re very very faint.
So patience and technique are the keys along with figuring out the little tricks and paying attention to little details such as if you’re hitting the entire bevel. Here is one of the recent knives I’ve done with my setup so I know much better results are possible.
