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Strider Tanto Blades

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  • #25184
    Elliott Brass
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 4

    Well, I am still fairly new with the WEPS, but I have a Strider SnG and SMF tanto that both need a new edge. Any tips or suggestions would be great. Anyone have a previous one they worked on that I can see? Thanks

    #25185
    Aaron kimpton
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 155

    Break it into two parts blade and tip. I am not familiar with that specific knife, I have done a few tanto’s. Two separate sharpening works well for me.

    This is my pixie whisker shaver…..

    #25186
    JS
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 109

    Yes, break it up into 2 portions. When doing the tip mount it parallel to the tops of the vise jaws. Yes your depth key will be useless here, but I believe this is by far the best way to sharpen a tanto on the WEPS. There is plenty enough clamping force to keep the blade steady.

    I sharpen all tantoes this way and feel it’s the best way to keep the sharp transition between the main edge and tip.

    #25192
    Rick
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 54

    I agree that seperating the blade into 2 parts is the best way to keep the defined yokote. I dont think we have a word for this in english, so I will use the Japanese terminology.

    One trick I have use a few times, (at least while free handing) is to wrap a couple of layers of painters tape around the blade from the yokote to the tip in order to help keep the areas defined, then when I start working the tanto portion I will wrap a small portion of the blade from the yokote to the blade I have already sharpened to help me know where the defined line should be on both sides.
    Sorry for the huge pic, still trying to figuer out this photo bucket thing. I had taken a couple more example pics, but dont want to waste space posting such huge pics.

    #25193
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    One trick I have use a few times, (at least while free handing) is to wrap a couple of layers of painters tape around the blade from the yokote to the tip in order to help keep the areas defined, then when I start working the tanto portion I will wrap a small portion of the blade from the yokote to the blade I have already sharpened to help me know where the defined line should be on both sides.

    I use this method also and it works great; especially when your objective, given the stark geometry, is to prevent rolling over the yokote. And thank you for providing the terminology! I had no idea there’s an actual name for the point where the two planes intersect. But, I’m definitely not surprised… The Japanese never cease to amaze me when it comes to the world of cutlery.

    Also, just in case you haven’t seen this(?), the master himself walks you through it 😉 It’s not a Strider but the principles remain the same.

    #25194
    Rick
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 54

    Nice! Have not seen that video before now. I have found that (in sharpening for other folks, as well as my self) there are two schools of thought on the yokote when it comes to knives. The sharply defined (more American style) yokote, and the rounded (more traditional) yokote. To be honest I prefer to round mine, as this make its easier for me with the way I cut, and use my knife, but there are pros and cons for everything.
    As for terminology, after spening some time in Japan, and well, years of martial arts who know that those terms would be useful later in life. :woohoo: lmao.

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