Jeff

The KnifeExchange area of that forum can cause one to spend money for sure.  The good part of it is the majority of the sellers are moving their knives at reasonable street prices so I find it a great resource to try different steels or styles and resell the ones that I don’t get attached to.  Never really out any money.

The oil Marc linked works very well on kitchen knives as it is food safe.  I use it on any “carbon” kitchen knives I have.  It would work fine on a “safe queen”.  I find it fairly light (thin) so I would probably shy away from using it on a knife that is actually pocket carried.

I have a couple of folders in M4, Spydercos.  M4 is a great all around steel.  Takes a screaming edge and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse. Obviously heat treat and edge geometry influences a lot.  All my knives are users and on any non-stainless I force a patina to start.  While M4 is far from stainless, it doesnt rust near as easily as som…[Read more]

I have a couple of boards in Hinoki (Japanese Cypress) that I really like.  I use for veggie prep or cooked proteins.  I prefer ones that are just 0.5″ thick as they are easy to store and move around although you can get them thicker if you like that look sitting on your counter full time.  They have a very, very mild cypress/citrus smell and na…[Read more]

Most of my folders are Spyderco.  I have or have had several examples of both the Paramilitary 2 and Para 3 which is essentially the same blade except 0.5″ shorter length.  I sharpen most of my Spyderco blades at 15 dps (I occasionally add a micro bevel on a really hard use knife) and have never had an issue with stone contact on the vise.  On…[Read more]

It really depends on the sharpening angle you want. If they are of a quality of steel and usage that can utilize a lower angle ie. under 15 dps I’d say that there is certainly a few there (guessing #3,4,8) that you will get stone contact with the vice unless you use a low angle adaptor or the tormec holder as others have stated.

I don’t know if there is a rule of thumb with micro bevels.  I’d run between 3 and 5 degrees difference to the primary angle and is what I have seen others do.

While the desired edge angle is dependent on what the knife is going to be used for, it is also very dependent on steel type.  I run some of my kitchen knives as low as 12 dps (no micro b…[Read more]

Gene, Mark is 100% correct on the clamping.  It does take a bit of fussing to get that typical ZT / Kershaw blade style clamped just right. The partial flat grind with the small swedge creates an interesting geometry right where you want to clamp.  I haven’t had issues with the thumb studs on just two models I have sharpened (not a 0562) a…[Read more]

Hey Tim if you have already sharpened at something other than the factory angle then I’m not sure there is a point in using a sharpie unless it is to visually aid you in ensuring you sharpen right to the apex .

I’d personally just set the WE up to now sharpen to the angle you desire.  If you find the knife performs the way you like then…[Read more]

Tony, I have about 10 Spyderco folders I maintain on the Wicked edge.  Some of them are the Paramilitary model but really all models I own have blades with that same pronounced ricasso at the rear of the sharpened edge.  I removed the plastic edge from the opposite side of each stone paddle to allow the stone to effectively get closer to that j…[Read more]

Roy, I’ve sharpened around 10 different Spyderco’s on the W/E.  Different steels in Paramilitary, Para3, Chaparral, or Manix models.  They were all closer to 16dps from the factory to start.  I agree with some previous posters.  I don’t think you are creating a true apex as you re-profile the edge.  Or if you are it isn’t along the entire leng…[Read more]

Marc I can see where what I stated could be confusing.  Steeper is maybe a bad word choice.  As an example.  My “garage” knife is a Spyderco Manix.  It is just their standard is CPM SV30 version.

I set the bevel at 15 dps and progress through the stones down to 1.5 micron lapping film.  I sometimes even strop if I want to bring the shine up on t…[Read more]

Your blade looks great.  The many different films, strops, compounds, makes creating mirrored bevels fairly easy.  I have found in my experience for a pocket knife that I prefer a little toothier edge for actual usage.  If I do end up polishing the bevel, I typically add a lower grit micro bevel a few degrees steeper.  It will no longer whi…[Read more]

You can find them on the WE website under upgrades but if you don’t already own one and have the Gen III vise I think you would be further ahead to just get the low angle adapter.

I’m considering going this route instead because I already own the riser block from a previous model.

Marc.  Thanks for the pictures and info.  I’m going to put mine together and see what I can get.  I’m thinking knives like a Santoku and Nakiri I will  be able to do the 12 dps (I actually only do my Nakiri down to 14 dps so certainly no issue there).  Gyuto probably fine also.  Not so sure on a Petty.

I’ll let you know how I make out but if…[Read more]

I like the concept a lot.  My question would be have you sharpened knives yet with the set up?  To me it looks like you may have interference to the back portion of the box when sharpening depending on the length of blade.  Not sure. Just trying to envision it in the picture.

sold locally .

PM replied.  I tried to clarify the wording. Thanks.