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How do you protect your blades?

Recent Forums Main Forum Knife Specific Discussion Benchmade How do you protect your blades?

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  • #52903
    Brewbear
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 151

    Hi all, I have recently acquired a Benchmade Mini Griptilian with a M4 blade. Since this metal is great for blades but it isn’t corrosion resistant, I’m looking for a way of protecting the blade. The knife is a limited production (#92 of 500) so it will be more of a “safe queen” delegating the cutting chores to the other benchmades or whatnot in M390. The one product I found is getting some hype is this :”Aegis Solutions EDCi Every Say Corrosion Inhibitor” but thought I’d turn to you all and ask if there is a better way of protecting a blade. Many thanks.

    #52904
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    I have a couple of folders in M4, Spydercos.  M4 is a great all around steel.  Takes a screaming edge and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse. Obviously heat treat and edge geometry influences a lot.  All my knives are users and on any non-stainless I force a patina to start.  While M4 is far from stainless, it doesnt rust near as easily as some others like 52100.

    For a safe queen a wipe of any type of light oil occasionally is enough to keep it free of corrosion.  If you really want to spend money on something else the Aegis you suggested or a Tuf-Glide product seem to get the most discussion over on bladeforums.

    2 users thanked author for this post.
    #52906
    MarcH
    Moderator
    • Topics: 61
    • Replies: 2165
    #52912
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    The oil Marc linked works very well on kitchen knives as it is food safe.  I use it on any “carbon” kitchen knives I have.  It would work fine on a “safe queen”.  I find it fairly light (thin) so I would probably shy away from using it on a knife that is actually pocket carried.

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #52914
    Brewbear
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 151

    I have a couple of folders in M4, Spydercos. M4 is a great all around steel. Takes a screaming edge and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse. Obviously heat treat and edge geometry influences a lot. All my knives are users and on any non-stainless I force a patina to start. While M4 is far from stainless, it doesnt rust near as easily as some others like 52100. For a safe queen a wipe of any type of light oil occasionally is enough to keep it free of corrosion. If you really want to spend money on something else the Aegis you suggested or a Tuf-Glide product seem to get the most discussion over on bladeforums.

    LOL! So, you’re looking at that “evil” forum too? Since I can resist everything except temptation, I had to limit my time there. I did buy a PJ Inkosi and a Hinderer there, the prices were too tempting.

    I ordered the Aegis EDCi since it will go on all my knives except the kitchen knives which will get the tsubaki oil. Thank you all.

    #52921
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    I have a couple of folders in M4, Spydercos. M4 is a great all around steel. Takes a screaming edge and can stand up to quite a bit of abuse. Obviously heat treat and edge geometry influences a lot. All my knives are users and on any non-stainless I force a patina to start. While M4 is far from stainless, it doesnt rust near as easily as some others like 52100. For a safe queen a wipe of any type of light oil occasionally is enough to keep it free of corrosion. If you really want to spend money on something else the Aegis you suggested or a Tuf-Glide product seem to get the most discussion over on bladeforums.

    LOL! So, you’re looking at that “evil” forum too? Since I can resist everything except temptation, I had to limit my time there. I did buy a PJ Inkosi and a Hinderer there, the prices were too tempting. I ordered the Aegis EDCi since it will go on all my knives except the kitchen knives which will get the tsubaki oil. Thank you all.

    The KnifeExchange area of that forum can cause one to spend money for sure.  The good part of it is the majority of the sellers are moving their knives at reasonable street prices so I find it a great resource to try different steels or styles and resell the ones that I don’t get attached to.  Never really out any money.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #52909
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/daily-maintenance-tools/products/tsubaki-oil

    This is an awesome choice for any knife used for food prep.  I use it on any non-stainless kitchen knives I have, however, I find it can be a little bit light (thin) for a edc type pocket knife.

    #52910
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/daily-maintenance-tools/products/tsubaki-oil

    This is a great choice for anything used in the kitchen as it is food safe.  I use it on any kitchen knives I have that aren’t stainless, however, it is very light (thin).  Still would work for something that is not being used (ie. safe queen) but maybe not so good for something that is carried.

    #52911
    Jeff
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 40

    https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/daily-maintenance-tools/products/tsubaki-oil

    This is great stuff for anything you use in the kitchen as it is food safe.  I use it on my “carbon” kitchen knives.  It would work to for a folder that isn’t really used, however, I find it pretty light (thin).  I don’t think it would be ideal for an EDC folder.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #53236
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 37
    • Replies: 1953

    I don’t get out much anymore, so my knives and guns aren’t exposed to much, in terms of corrosion, so I can’t testify to their efficacy, but here’s a couple of items I use:

    I have a couple more “wet wipe” packets of Birchwood Casey Sheath left over , which is now sold as their “Barricade Rust Preventative.”  Available in spray can, wet wipes or spout-type oil can.

    I also use Flitz Rifle Gun and Knife Wax.   This a liquid wax very much like the Nu-Finish car wax I use.  Invisible, except for the white residue in crooks and crannies.

    I think the Barricade is more intended for storage, while the wax is full-time.  In any case, if you do more than very light use, you’ll have to freshen the coating with each use.

     

     

     

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