Organic
@organic
active 4 years, 5 months agoForum Replies Created
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Those micro fine ceramic stones are really good. The 0.6 micron is my preferred finishing stone these days.
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I also suspect that you are rounding the apex ever so slightly as you do additional stropping. It may have very little to do with the particular grit of the strips you are using hand have more to do with the number of strokes.
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Welcome BK!
Some advise on getting the tip right:
- Get the knife clamped properly. If you have the knife clamped in a poor position then you will likely have very broad bevels at the tip. Check out the thread titled “How I find the sweet spot.”
- Don’t let the stones roll over the tip. You will have to exercise care when working the tip to keep the stones parallel to the bevels. If you rotate the stones toward the tip then you will round it.
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I also start my diamond film progression (on those knives where I choose to use them) at 6 micron. I follow that up with 3 micron and 1.5 micron films and then the 4 / 2 micron strops. I don’t currently own any of the finer films (1, 0.5, 0.1). Most knives I sharpen get diamonds up to 3000 grit, then the 1.4 / 0.6 micron ceramic stones followed by strops. If I’m just sharpening to get it sharp then I will use only the 4 / 2 micron strops. this edge is shinny and reflective but not a clear mirrored finish. If I’m going for a full mirrored finish then I use a full progression of strops (14, 10, 4, 2, 1, 0.5 micron).
The ceramic stones do help improve the polish and would fit pretty well after your 2200 diamond stone. If you really want to improve the polish on your bevels (and don’t want to go to lapping films) then I suggest spending a lot of time using your strops.
Some side to side angle variation is normal on the generation 3 pro model. The micro adjustment knobs should have more than enough range to compensate for that issue. I usually set mine somewhere towards the middle of their range to allow adjustments to be made in either direction when sharpening. If it is an issue that bothers you then I suggest that you contact Wicked Edge customer service and get their thoughts on the matter.
Those ball joints and rods look normal to me.
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It is safer to move the sharpening stones “up” and “away”. I did my “Wicked Edge” sharpening this way for years. But lately I have been try the “edge leading” method and I have found it very easy to get cut.
I have found that holding the stones from the very bottom of the paddles helps mitigate the chances of cutting myself. With my hands on the bottom of the paddles there are very few instances where my hands are higher than the edge of the knife. The sides of the blade won’t cut you.
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Wow, that is an unreasonable policy in my opinion.
I think you should still be able to clamp this knife on the flat area in front of the stop pin. There might be a portion of the jaws that aren’t able to grip anything (in the thumb hole area) but that shouldn’t prevent you from being able to sharpen. If all else fails you can always clamp the knife in the Tormek small knife adapter and then mount that on the WE.
I believe that cow and kangaroo leather both have an inherent grit to them because of the silicates used to treat the leather.
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The fun is soon to begin! Focus on developing a consistent technique and work on your junk knives first.
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If you are doing a 70:30 edge as shown in the drawing then both units are capable of that. The angles are identical on either side but the blade is intentionally sharpened so that the ratio of bevel sizes is 7:3. You simply need to spend more time working the side with the larger bevel.
That said, if you are trying to do different angles on either side of the knife then the WE130 is the only way to go.
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9.7 micron, 7.1 micron, and 5.0 micron respectively.
See page 2 of this thread: 2200 / 3000 stones.
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